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killemall8

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Everything posted by killemall8

  1. Love seeing a bunch of builds all next to each other. Super strats are in that big of a demand huh?
  2. This one is going well. Paduak fretboard on 5 piece curly maple and walnut neck. Ash top (will be dyed black) Fretboard bound in walnut and curly maple.
  3. That just isnt how i picture it at all, but alrighty. I am usually wrong anyway. The fretwork is identical. The builds i am comparing are my 2 most recent, back to back, within 3 weeks.
  4. I dont think you get what i am saying. I am saying, i think a guitar with a higher bridge and more neck angle eliminates fret buzz compared to low neck angle and low bridge. A low bridge with low neck angle, when you fret, it pushes the whole string down almost flat across all the frets at the same time. with steeper neck angle and higher bridge, It creates more of a "v" shape wiht the string where it is fretted. Having the string blelow where it is fretted being higher, clearing the fret above it more, thus allowing lower action and less fret buzz.
  5. I think you are misunderstanding what i am talking about. I am not saying one gets better action than the other. They can both be set to the same height. But the playability between the 2 at the same action is different.
  6. So, this is something that has been on my mind for most of my building career. I used to think that guitars played better with minimal neck angle and a lower bridge, with the strings more parallel to the frets. But recently, i did a guitar with a little bit steeper neck angle, and it played better than any i have ever made. I just made one with a TOM bridge, machined to be shorter and sit flush with the body. I am very confident in my fretwork. This guitar doesnt seem to hold low action anywhere near as well as the other guitar with steeper neck angle. In my head, i picture it as though with a steeper neck angle, it allows the string to clear the next fret more than a lower neck angle. Any thoughts on this?
  7. Interesting. I for some reason thought the second pic was of different fretboards. I have never seen rosewood with that kind of coloring.
  8. I have given up on gloss smooth finishes anyway. Every single finish i use, no matter how long i let it dry, shrinks back within a few weeks from buffing. Even automotive 2 part clears and conversion varnishes. They never stop shrinking here with the hot weather.
  9. Finally got a business license. And nothing like messing up 5 guitars in a row to start that off, and to send me back to the hating making guitars feeling. What a waste of good wood.
  10. I have used a razor blade many times. That is what i started out with about 5 years ago when i first started getting into this. It still pulls it out of the grain. Epoxy isnt as bad because it goes on thicker and above the surface. But it is hard to get smooth, unless you use a long cure epoxy.
  11. that is exactly what i am saying. That is one of the best parts about a drum sander!
  12. Yes, for joins... but not for the top after its been glued.
  13. I see. Dang, you run your bodies through at 40 grit? That is like rough sawn wood! haha. I run mine through at 180.
  14. Why did you grainfill the body if it is cherry? It doesnt require grainfilling. it is as smooth as maple.
  15. I love zero frets... but the general public doesnt for some reason. For actual nut material, i love corian.
  16. It is just epoxy. Redwood is pretty much a sponge, and is very weak being burl.
  17. Good looking guitar there. Single pickup, huh? What scale is it?
  18. Honestly, Soft maple (the species) Is a perfectly good wood.
  19. By double bookmatch, i figured you meant width wise... Bookmatching on top of each other is a bad idea.
  20. that would be one small guitar, being it is only 10" long.
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