KeithHowell
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Everything posted by KeithHowell
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Iv'e bought Rosewood fret boards from RareWoods. In Cape Town they have a off-cuts section where I usually get my wood. I've got maple,ash,mahogany(african) and several other bits quite cheap. I've used Pirana Pine, mahogany, Beech, Meranti,maple. One of the best sounding basses I've built has a meranti body and maple neck. Keith
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Tell me more about Piezos?
KeithHowell replied to Extremist's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
The pre-amplifiers used on piezo systems are more for equalization and impedance matching than amplifying the piezo output. A piezo has plenty of output but has a high impedance, around 1 meg, so it doesn't match very well with most standard amplifier setups, the cable used can also make things more problematic if you don't impedance match properly. A preamplifier with a gain of around 1 or 2 is plenty. This should probably be moved to the elctronics section. Keith -
Mervyn Davis uses kiaat on his nylon string acoustics. Steve Newman plays one. Where are you based? I'm in Cape Town. Keith
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What oil is recommended? My father, who is a blacksmith by trade, says that in the old days the best oil he used was whale oil! Keith
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Make sure you get rosin core NOT acid core. The residue acid will slowly eat away your wires, PC board copper traces and whatever other metal it comes in contact with if you use acid core. Keith
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The body is not totally hollow as I understand it but has a machined frame to which the neck attaches. I'm pretty sure the reverb is via the amp as I've heard and seen the guitars played in concert without reverb. The tone was similar to a metal Dobro to my ears. Keith
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Is there something like a "3PDT-Switch??"
KeithHowell replied to horstausmforst's topic in Electronics Chat
I'm not sure about a push/pull version but Ive got a toggle version with about eight rows. They are used in telecommunication test sets. -
Go to print setup and make sure your scale is 1:1. When you are drawing make sure all your dimensions are full size. To get measurements off the drawing, go to tools, measurement, distance. Make sure you have an appropriate snap mode set (ie snap to intersection, line end whatever) and click on the start and end of whatever you want to measure. Keith
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I've got one on my cell phone!
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I've got a tuner on my cell phone which is just as convenient.
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10 Volts ? I presume you mean 10 Watts! It seems to me that what you want to do is redesign your speaker cabinet for your amp. I'm not an acoustic engineer but what you need to do is research the type of drivers you have in the cabinet and then design an appropriate cabinet. The dimensions, whether it is open backed closed backed etc all make a difference. It should also be remembered that electric guitar amps are designed to distort, ( technically they are driven in the non-linear portion of their response curve) whereas acoustic, bass, PA etc are designed to be as clean as possible (one of the reasons tubes are used for guitar and solid state for most everything else) so if you have a guitar amp it might not really fit what you want to do without having to mess with the actual electronics in the amp. Keith
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It would depend on the specifications of the electronics ie power, what speakers you want to use etc.. I don't think you will get away with less than about 200 USD. Keith
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Finishing over pre-drilled holes?
KeithHowell replied to Gorecki's topic in Inlays and Finishing Chat
If your hole gets to plugged up and you need to drill it out, run your drill backwards and drill out the hole. It will stop the drill lifting and cracking the finish around the hole. This also works if you want to drill a hole into the finished guitar. Go backwards through the finish and then drill normally for the rest of the hole. Keith -
I had a bridge like that but I replaced the metal bit with a piece of rose wood and made it non adjustable. It improved the tone a lot. I use the metal bit now with a bolt on bridge to adjust the action and take measurements before finally gluing the bridge in place. Keith
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I suggest you post this in the Electronics section you will get better responses. Keith
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Have a look here as well: Buffering Keith
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I haven't bought it yet as I haven't been doing much audio work. I played with it in demo mode. Everything works but it times out , after I think 30 minutes and has to be restarted. The only downside of going straight into the sound card is the cards low impedance but have a look at: Sound Card Buffer for a solution. You would need to beef up the buffer as well if you wanted to use it on tube amps! There are other sound card scopes available as well. Do a google search and you will come up with a few. Keith
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I use a software scope with the sound card on my PC. At the audio frequencies we deal with the work fine. Have a look at:Sound Card test gear Keith
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Have a look at GuitarBuild they have a full size plan. Keith
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Try Intellicad and TurboCAD Learning addition. They both have free versions available. Intellicad has a similar interface to Autocad and TurboCAD LE is a bigger version of the guitarbuild download. Keith
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What wood is available? Gibson neck would probably be Mahogany so you will have to look for something with similar properties. It is also probably glued in and so will be more difficult to remove. What is small about the neck?
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Have a look at the topic on tone capacitors pots etc in the tutorial section. It's pinned at the top. Keith
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Whaaat? Last time any of my family came from Britain was almost 200 hundred years ago. I hope you won't call any of our Australian members British, it can make them very upset
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I don't know I'm not British I'm South African. Keith
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Screened, shielded same thing. I think it's a telecommunications term as that's where I learnt my electronics. We always refered to the braided outer as the "screen" as it screens out the noise. Keith