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DC Ross

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Everything posted by DC Ross

  1. Go here and play around with it for a few minutes: http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/nonparallel.php It's a great tool & it'll give you an idea of how fanned frets work & the mathematics behind it.
  2. <5 minutes with 60 grit paper on a radius block works like a charm for me. Even with a sureform, you'll still need to hit it with some very agressive grits. Honestly, I can't see it taking less time or being easier or more accurate.
  3. I agree, beautiful guitar & great job with the grain. re: the fanned frets, I play a Dingwall ABII (34 - 37") and a 6 string baritone (25.5 - 28") that I built a few months ago. They take a few minutes to get the hang of, but once you get the feel of where things are, it's no different than, say, playing a 25.5" scale if you're used to a 24.75" scale.
  4. Basically what I was saying. I would use thinner wood though, because the thickness of the wood is reducing the reach of the router bit. In some cases, especially with small bits, it makes a difference. Ah, must've missed page 2 What bluesy said
  5. 3/4" melamine/ply/mdf with a hole cut into the center is all you need for a router table. A straight chunk of wood and two clamps are all you need for a fence.
  6. Router table with fence. Easy, safe and accurate.
  7. I print mine out on normal paper and use stick glue to glue it to hardboard. I like the hardboard because it is easy to cut & drum sand to final shape. It's also very light and tough which makes for a great template.
  8. I use the same as jer7440 - a 6", 11" and 18". I use those for a lot of things, they come in really handy.
  9. Not sure how that would work since a planer knife is a straight edge? Would have to see that to believe it. No way a straight edge is going to give a radius, maybe an tapered flat surface using a sled but not a radius? Just trying to understand this unless the knives are made like a shaper to cut the radius as well. MK Even if the knives were like a shaper, it wouldn't produce a compound radius. You've got my curiosity up, could you give some more specifics?
  10. You look at the front of the neck when you're playing? Or are you referring to the side dots (which you would normally use to "get your bearings")?
  11. Also, check your local library for the DVD "Mastering Your Bandsaw" from Taunton Press. It's got lots of helpful hints.
  12. Just an FYI: Google has a great feature called Calculator. Just enter your conversion in the search box, for example, ".125 inches in millimeters" and it'll give you the result.
  13. I bought a Grizzly G0457 a few months ago after reading that it could be rewired to 120v. What I didn't realize at the time was that it required a 30 amp circuit, so there was no way I could plug it into a standard 120v outlet and not trip the breaker. Just last week I hired an electrician and added two new 240v circuits. The bandsaw loves it.
  14. I'm w/ killemall8, nice work. Just curious: how does the kanji relate to the pinstriping?
  15. CA is cyanoacrylate, or Super Glue. It comes in thin, medium or thick viscosities.
  16. WezV is right. I just defretted a Conklin with a purpleheart fingerboard and used cherry veneer glued with thin CA to fill the slots. I then sanded the whole thing down to a shine and applied epoxy, then sanded, then more epoxy, then sanded again. It turned out very well.
  17. I remember hearing good things about Fraser Valley Fine Woods, but I don't have any direct experience with them. Good luck!
  18. Nice! It looks similar to my as-of-yet-unnamed model. It balances extremely well when sitting and standing with the long upper horn, which reaches to the 12th fret. Here's a pic of Corey Petro from Custom playing the unfinished prototype:
  19. According to Mattia in this thread, the StewMac ColorTone is the same as the Target Coatings Oxford Ultima Spray Lacquer.
  20. That is rather, um, "Georgia o'Keefe-ian" I'd play it. Hard.
  21. +1 to Setch's argument (this is also the method that Dan Erlewine uses)
  22. I'm looking for a non- (or at least less-) toxic alternative to automotive paints or nitro & came across this stuff: http://www.targetcoatings.com/oxford-spray-lacquer.html Does anyone have any experience with the stuff? What would be a good pigment to use with it? Thanks!
  23. +1 to Mickguard's suggestion. Just keep in mind that you may need shorter neck screws after the heel is thinned.
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