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DC Ross

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Everything posted by DC Ross

  1. DC Ross
    Checking borders.com, it's supposed to be available today.
  2. DC Ross
    I love the dragon
  3. DC Ross
    Thanks, I'd like to avoid the razor blade option, it doesn't quite look authentic (to me anyway). I'll give the heat/cold cycle a shot, but I'm pretty sure the natural checking occurs from the nitro shrinking over time.
  4. DC Ross
    Any ideas how to get the look of old cracked nitro like on a Gibson from the 40s (without waiting 60 years)?
  5. DC Ross
    FYI: The American Deluxe Strat, PRS Custom 24 and 70s Les Paul Custom are all 9/64"
  6. DC Ross
    Either 3/32" or 1/8"
  7. DC Ross
    +1. There are many variables that can't be generalized that you need to calculate yourself. It's not difficult if you go about it logically.
  8. DC Ross
    Here you go: http://www.alliedlutherie.com/truss_rods.htm
  9. DC Ross
    Looks solid so far, good job!
  10. DC Ross
    Are you using the ColorTone or TimberMate? The ColorTone stuff has a very low viscosity (i.e. watery), and sinks into the pores so much that it takes way more than a couple applications, especially on woods like Mahogany.
  11. DC Ross
    The Colortone / Target waterbased grain filler is, to put it mildly, crap. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=43029&hl= RAD is right, their instructions were written by someone who had never used the stuff. I tried every possible application technique that I could think of, and finally was able to fill the pores by sheer will and brute force
  12. DC Ross
    I assembled one for a customer; they're a PITA. The bridge and pickup routes were off, the neck pocket was sloppy, the hardware was terrible, the frets were totally out of whack, and the list goes on. You're better off just buying a good kit if you want to go the assembly route (vs. building one).
  13. DC Ross
    I'm selling this CA Technologies gun: CPR-T3 1.3, 1.5, 1.7 w/ .6 Liter Plastic Cup http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/CAT/...line%20CPR.html It includes 1.3mm, 1.5mm, and 1.7mm tips and needles, and CPR (reduced pressure) and HVLP air caps It was restored and certified as new condition by the factory. I've since moved up to a SATA MiniJet and no longer use this gun. New, they're $218, I'll let it go for $150.
  14. DC Ross
    I'd love to see an example of Prostheta's explanation. Better yet, I'd love to play one and see how much it would fret out on the outer strings. "Compound radius" is defined pretty much everywhere as a section of a cone, as Ken describes: http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/a-compoundradius.html http://www.sweetwater.com/expert-center/gl...-CompoundRadius http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fingerboard#Radius
  15. DC Ross
    Easy fix: Put a bit of binding in the slot.
  16. DC Ross
    61.04mm sounds about right, but honestly, that measurement never comes into play when actually building the instrument (for me, anyway).
  17. DC Ross
    If you're using a 48mm nut, the 12th fret width is determined by the string spacing of the bridge you're using...
  18. DC Ross
    I love walnut, it's easy to work, and smells like cinnamon I built my prototype out of it; it sounds great and is a very comfortable weight. I also have two awesome Dingwall Afterburner basses that have walnut and bubinga bodies.
  19. DC Ross
    Definitely, & good luck in GOTM. Sorry for the hijacks, BTW.
  20. DC Ross
    Exactly I have larger than average hands, and mine cramp up with thick necks. Personally, my thin necks are the most comfortable for me. This one fits her perfectly
  21. DC Ross
    What Avengers says. Here's a superthin (that's .646" thick): The neck is lacewood, fretboard is ebony, and uses an Allied truss rod.
  22. DC Ross
    I know you mentioned that you didn't want to use shellac because it warmed up the blue too much, but this is exactly what Jeff Jewitt recommends when using water/alcohol based dyes with waterbased topcoats because of this "lifting" issue. You didn't mention what type of shellac you were using, but try blonde for a near-clear barrier coat.
  23. DC Ross
    Super simple jig. A couple pieces of MDF, carriage bolts, washers and wing nuts. Clamp the neck in, align the front edge of the jig with the front edge for the nut and make sure the nut slot is parallel with the top of the jig. Set the depth and go to town using a short pattern bit. I vote for the logo in the middle or on top as well.
  24. DC Ross
    Seeing as how you don't have a ton of experience, and if you really want and/or need to do this, I'd suggest having them build kits. There are a few places around here that do that with acoustics and ukes, and people seem to get a kick out of it.
  25. DC Ross
    Thanks Terry, I just got back from Hawaii, and they were here waiting for me!
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