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Primal

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Everything posted by Primal

  1. Like Scott said, what I did was cut the fb about 2-3 mm away from the line, glue on, then sanded it on my belt sander. Worked great.
  2. I would recommend using epoxy that you can get at a hobby shop. In my experience in building model rockets (big ones! ) the epoxy that I got from the hobby shop was of higher quality. You should also be able to get it in more varieties. If you can, get ahold of some "finishing epoxy" which is used for filling wood and fiberglassing (soaking fiberglass cloth in epoxy; used to reinforce tubes in model rocketry). Hope this helped.
  3. Tried using a file but it is still uneven. Needless to say I have not used files much.
  4. I recently tried to make the slot for the nut in my fretboard. However, the slot did not come out level so now I need to sand or something to make it level and square. Has anyone had this problem? Any advice? Thanks
  5. Why would you want to install a non adjustable truss rod? Two way rods are extremely easy to install and will adjust a back bow and an up bow. I would suggest the two way truss rod from LMI or the one from Stewmac. As for neck blanks, Stewmac sells curly maple neck blanks for $45.90. You could also look at LMI. I would suggest LMI for a fretboard. too. I really like LMI because they will slot and radius your fretboard and they have a much better wood selection than Stewmac. P.S. LMI has first and second grade bass neck blanks priced at $47.00 and $36.75 respectively.
  6. daveq: I have no idea what type of walnut it is. I thought it was Black Walnut though. I live in West Virginia and 25 years ago, the guy that gave this to me got the tree from someones front yard (it was cut down and laying there). Myka Guitars: The neck was shaped with a belt sander. I've got a Bartolini music man pickup (of which I am still trying to get a template cut out for ). I will be building the preamp myself unless I get a sudden infusion of money. Hehe. Thanks for the comments.
  7. C'mon, there has got to me more comments out there...
  8. I am considering two projects after I finish my current bass. One of those is a fretless jazz bass copy. I have started liking j-basses more now after seeing a jazz combo with a crazy bassist on a cruise ship. The other project I am considering is a 6 string bass.
  9. Greg: I honestly don't know which order is prefered. I have seen it done both ways. Due to space limitations in my workshop as well as the reach of my band saw, I would not have been able to cut the body out after it had been glued. asm: I got all that walnut from a friend of mine who has had it in his barn for 25 years. The long strips are from a flatsawn board. I merely cut the pieces and put them on edge.
  10. www.customshopparts.com Should have all ya need... except perhaps a preamp.
  11. Volute 1 Volute 2 Volute 3 Up the neck Down the neck Pau Ferro Fretboard - Roughly tapered. Glueing some wood to the back of the neck to make up some thickness. Sorry for the lack of quality with the pictures. Hope you enjoy. Chris Edit: I realized that I posted a whole lot of pictures so I linked them instead. Sorry.
  12. Well, it took far longer than I had expected it would take to update, but alas I have taken more pictures! First off, here is my workshop, just in case anyone cares. Upper Wing - Front Upper Wing - Back - Note the color of the walnut. Looks great with a finish on it. Router Mishap 1 - Need some patience. Filled with walnut wood filler. Will need to stain to match the color of the wood. Lower Wing - Front Lower Wing - Back - Same as the back of the upper wing. Router Mishap 2 - An easy repair. Headstock - Front Headstock - Back
  13. Does anyone have a MM pickup template that they could e-mail me? I can't find any on the net and everytime I try to trace mine, it gets off because of the wires not letting th pickup lay flat. Any help would be appreciated. Chris
  14. I've always been a bit confused as to how you do the neck when you are building a bass such as that where the upper horn runs up the neck.
  15. I live in West Virginia (a lot drier than Oregon I imagine ). The barn that the wood was stored in is pretty weatherproof (at least in the area where the wood was dried).
  16. Ah, thanks alot. At first, I tried one of those plastic template guides (this has all been on scrap btw). Apparently those guides melt easily. Then I tried freehand, chiseling, etc. No success as of yet. I will try your method on my next trip up to my workshop.
  17. Whats the easiest way to route out the pickup cavity? I've tried (on scrap) free hand routing, chiseling, etc. I will soon try my dremel. I also am having a difficult time creating a cavity the correct size for my music man pickup. I've tried tracing but it never comes out right. Thanks in advance, Chris
  18. I've got some walnut that is around 1/2" think and has been stored in a barn for the past 25 years. Should that be dry enough?
  19. You could always get your fb from LMI. They will radius and slot your board for $14.
  20. Unfinished neck? On a maple neck? I would suggest you finish it with something, tung oil at least.
  21. er, ya, thats what I was thinking nyjbkim, even though I didnt type that
  22. Well, I think just a little bit longer than half the scale length of the guitar. Allow for the nut and maybe 1/4" past the 24th fret.
  23. You considering selling it? If so, for how much?
  24. What are suitable finishes for a Pau Ferro fretboard? My fretboard seems to be quite dry and rather dull in color. I was hoping that I could somehow finish it to bring out the grain.
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