jay5
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Everything posted by jay5
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I agree that the Whiteside bits are top notch, but you have to remember that if you ask to much of the bit (ie taking too much wood off in a pass) ANY bit will wear down. Most people I have seen comment on them agree that the Stewmac bits are top quality. I only use the Whiteside bits cause' theyre a bit cheaper. Like someone else said, STewmac is an awesome source for stuff, but some of the more common items in their catolog can be found much cheaper elsewhere.
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The HF unit gets pretty decent reviews on many woodworking boards from what Ive seen.
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Have you looked? Check ebay or open the phone book.
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well, here are a few pics, anyone have any advice on the possibility of rewiring this beast? I am trying to find the owners manual online. Cord wiring and another and another
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Its hard to say if they are the same brand, if thats what you're asking. I would assume that the whiteside bits are just as good if not better than the stewmac ones, only b/c I dont know where they come from. You want THESE here. I have # 3002 and it has been flawless thus far. I would dare to say that that bit is almost essential. The only drawback is its 1/2" diameter which means you cant rout corners less than 1/4" radius, but I have never needed to do anything less so it fits me fine. Where ever you get one, just dont go cheap. I cant stress that enough.
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I dont think the adage "you get what you pay for" applies any better than to buying bits. Those bits will probably work for a while but I guarentee that they will wear out sooner than you would like. Routerbits.com is an excellent source for bits, they sell whiteside bits which are the best I have used by far. For the $5 extra (or whatever) you will pay for a top quality bit you will get much beeter durability and quality of cuts. Don't skimp on bits man.
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Well, actually it is 15 scfm, so I dont know what I have gotten myself into LOL.
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Well, I just picked up the compressor. I'm not sure, but I may not be able to rewire the motor afterall. It appears to be model from a couple years back, nothing I researched. Looks just like the one on the Sears site though. It says 240v right on the side, nothing about 110 or 115 or whatever. It also says it makes 15cfm @ 40psi , is a 2 cylinder, oil less motor and is single phase. It also says that it draws 14 amps though, which seems low to me. It appears to have an aftermarket plug on the end of the cord. So, what kind of pics would you guys need to know if this thing can indeed be rewired to run on 110v?
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Since you didnt have a router listed I went with the drill press. I see a bandsaw as a huge convenience, one I wish I had but I dont think I would feel comfortable working w/out my router and drill press. A good router w/ a good table and you can do anything!
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Ahhhh, cool, must have missed that. Cool all the same.
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OOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Thats killer!
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So are the thinner frets also shorter? Does that pose a problem when trying to level them?
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SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!! Superstrats are not my thing but man, the details here really do it for me. Can you explain the banjo frets to me
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Cool, thanks man! What do you buff with?
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I literally check his site 3-4 times a week for new stuff. Awesome!
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That does look better, but there is somthing about it that still looks a bit off. It may just be that my eye picking out the fact that it doesnt fit the standard strat proportins or somthing. I think the one thing that might be a bit od (to me) is the fact that you have the treble side lower bout a bit shorter than the bass side. I think that makes the bass side horn "pop" out a bit more. Maybe if the treble side bout was a bit more proportional to the bass side that would even things out and make those horns a bit less obtrusive? I dont really know, but I can tell you that I think its awesome that you are trying to come up with an original design, regardless of my feelings about it. It's your design and if you like it, run with it.
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I like the design too but I think if you took the horns in a bit it would look a bit better. I think the overall width should be less than the lower bouts. I like the thickness of the actual horns but maybe just bring them closer in. Know what I mean I'm not sure how to describe it.
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How Do I Install Covers On Humbuckers
jay5 replied to possum1284's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
No offense, but you can't be serious. -
Just leave it like the first mockup. Its less work than the other two, less clutter, and looks much better IMO.
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Like I said, if its your master template it will be easier and more accurate to just start over. Trace the messed up one out on some new material, cut it out and then fine tune it with the sandpaper. 1/4" material will work fast. By the time you fill the error with glue, let it dry and sand it flush, you could have made a brand new one with no issues. Any small bump or dip in your template is going to translate over to the finished product. Its much easier to sand it out of 1/4" MDF than a 1 3/4" body blank.
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I have never seen that before, but honestly, I think you already have the tools for the job. There were fret jobs before the neck jig was invented. Where exactly is the buzzing happening? Its possible to still have the strings buzz with level frets. I am not an expert on this so Im not gonna' tell you what you should do but I feel pretty confident in saying that I dont think you need that thing.
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Looks great! What type of dye do you use?
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No no. I was thinking about picking up a template set from guitarbuilding templates.com (thats where those are from right?) and just wondered what you thought of them.
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+1
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I doubt a kit is the way to go. Just look on google for uke builders, I imagine there are quite a few. You might want to check out what the pro uke guys are playing. Most of them probably have some mention of the brand they use on their websites.