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rhoads56

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Everything posted by rhoads56

  1. rhoads56
    Neither of them will care. Ebay couldnt care less, and they arent going to kick off a frequent seller for this, especially when he claims its a mistake. Gotoh couldnt care for the same reasons. Put it down to experience, and learn from it.
  2. rhoads56
    That was me, send it through. I need the neck blank, prior to shaping, and the fret board, without frets (slots must be marked or cut already). The truss rod must be installed. IE: the neck should be ready to fit the fretboard. Email me for the address.
  3. rhoads56
    Not neccesarrily so... I know a local retailer that has a newspaper on the counter at all times, placed in such a way that your food (its takeaway) is placed onto the newspaper when you come to pick it up. He chrges the $1.50 for the newspaper, and if anyone questions it: "Oh, sorry, i thought you wanted the newspaper because its sitting right there". I bet this guy on ebay knew EXACTLY what he was doing.
  4. rhoads56
    Nope, no jokes. I think you would have realised they werent the real deal from reading the text IF the GOTOH brand image wasnt present. However, if you are like me, you scan the page looking for identifying marks, eg: the GOTOH image... Stick it to him, and complain to the seller AND Ebay.
  5. rhoads56
    I pay $15 AUD ($9 USD) for those JIN HO tuners for REAL CRAPPY guitars that need new tuners. That price ($9 USD) is for a set of six.
  6. rhoads56
    Are you referring to the clear trem rout template that can be spun around to do a wilkinson style trem, or a fender style?? Might be a little hard to have a refference line when both sides are different... Mine came with clear instructions. However, it probably could have TWO sets of horizontal alignment lines, to save confusion. Put the body to the side and make a longer neck with maybe 26 frets or something next time. Save you throwing the body away. Stewmac routing instructions Id suggest emailing them, and make a suggestion of moving the line, and adding another. They seem to respond well to constructive feedback.
  7. rhoads56
    Try doing a search with one username "dire straits" and the other usernames... they are all dire straits songs... co-incidence?? I think not. Oh well, im confident enough in my own abilities that i dont need to ramp up the votes with support from friends and family.
  8. rhoads56
    More, because we can...
  9. rhoads56
    Maybe i should add some more photos, but i assumed the photos were locked in the other thread from 21st of this month. Its also nice to see an influx in membership in the last 24 hours that all seem to have very simular usernames. Interesting. Ok, here comes the flood...
  10. rhoads56
    I didnt even bother to read after the second line, but.... SANDBLASTERS HAVE NO USE NEAR WOOD, WHEN STRIPPING PAINT. Wood is softer than paint dude. We used to use sandblasters to leave a cool effect on timber for signs and trophies. The sand blasts away the bits in between the grain lines (grain lines are harder). It would take 10 seconds, if that, to do the same effect on a guitar.... FRONT AND BACK!!
  11. rhoads56
    Why is it always the new members that demand headstock logos and CAD plans??
  12. rhoads56
    Who slotted the fretboard, what width are the slots, and did you measure the tang prior to fitting the frets??
  13. rhoads56
    Disc sander, working towards a rebate routered to the edge of the body. One hours work: Two hours work, because i did it twice. I wanted a deeper carve, after i had finish sanded it all. 43 minutes work. I timed myself, which included setting up, cleaning up and packing everything away. It needs five minutes more work with a curved scraper blade, and MAYBE five minutes of finish sanding. I'll probably bind this body. I will use a file to carve the scallops on the horns. I once read a discussion on the MIMF forum, and a few people were agreeing that they enjoy the 8-10 hours it takes to carve a top using the "specialist" luthier planes. They seemed to think it was soothing, and relaxing. Each to their own i guess.
  14. rhoads56
    Your wrong. If you re-read the dunlop website, they specify the tang can be .002 - or +. So, you could get a batch of .022. I suggest you by Dan's/Stew Mac's Fretting book, it will explain why and how to use particular fret tang widths. Use the right tools for the job, stop trying to save $2, or make something 5% faster. When and IF you start building for a living, THEN start trying to take shortcuts. Personally, for the volume your doing, just by the damn fretboards already pre-slotted...
  15. rhoads56
    Its about time someone said that.... 0.024 is the size of the fret slot you need. The fret tangs will vary from batch to batch. But you dont honestly think Stew Mac makes their own wire do you?
  16. rhoads56
    Yes. Just make a box to house the "arms". The arms have cradles on the end to attach to the unprofiled neck blank. The "box" bolts to the sanding machine. Sorry, no photos at this stage, maybe later. I have a HUGE 10' belt sander (21' belt length)
  17. rhoads56
    Yep, so air tight not even 1/2 tonne of pressure will seat those frets. I have that saw, i have stew mac frets, and i have a 1/2 tonne arbor press for fretting. Even if i adjust the truss rod so the neck blank is VERY back bowed, the frets STILL do not seat. Even if you did manage to force them into the undersized fret slot, your neck will back bow beyond the limit of adjustment within your truss rod. Forget it, buy the correct tool. Or, buy your boards pre-cut. You can readjust the set of the japanese saws, but i wouldnt bother, and i have the correct tools to do it. It is soooo fiddly, its a joke (yes i have done it).
  18. rhoads56
    Yes, i have a home made jig that does that. It will do any radius from 5 inches to 25 inches, including compounds etc. As for dereks comments, once the timber is correctly dried, it wont warp. And furthermore, your hand has a lot more sway/zigzag/crisscross/circular movement that will make the radius "out". If your so concerned about warping, use cheap MDF or plywood.
  19. rhoads56
    You got pictures espnut??
  20. rhoads56
    Personally?? Just get ONE guitar finished dude, worry about the rest later. Maple mustnt warp too much, its used on more guitar neck than any other timber i know of...
  21. rhoads56
    There is nothing you can use it for when building guitars, that would not be better done with another tool.
  22. rhoads56
    The correct and fastest tool is a spokeshave for the rounded bodies, or a plane for straight bodies, eg: Flying V's.
  23. rhoads56
    Yep, Derek pretty much has nailed this one. Just remember, the string length, can never be shorter than the scale length, but it can be longer. And the thicker the string, the further back the saddle will have to be placed. I place the bridge a millimeter or two forward (towards the nut), of where the exact scale length is, if the little "e" is adjusted all the way forward.
  24. rhoads56
    Thats a bloody good suggestion. Might even make you proud enough to put YOUR OWN name on there kpnutz52
  25. rhoads56
    Personally, i think its like the rice boys who put all sorts of performance model car stickers over their non-performance ride. Not only will you not fool anyone, make it play any better, etc etc etc, when you go to trade it in on a better guitar, you'll get NOTHING for it. And if you do end up selling it on the second hand market, and the next owner palms it off as a geniune Gibson, YOUR the one who will get done for FRAUD. Seems to me that there are so many negatives, and no positives.
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