KitDean

I would suggest reading Reranch 101 at http://www.reranch.com/ . Then, I would read it again just to be on the safe side. Next, make a list of all the supplies you will need (primer, paint, clear, various grits of sandpaper, sanding blocks, naptha, any sealers or fillers) and purchase them. If you do choose to work with enamel (and it would not be my first choice due to longer than average cure times), strongly consider making a painting jig. You will minimize the potential for runs in the finish (one of the side effects of using enamel). In addition, it will be easier to get a consistent coat on the guitar. Good Luck! Kit Dean

The idea to use a blue anodizing spray (Metalcast or Duplicolor's Anodizit) over a silver (or chroming) paint is a good one. I recently tested Plastikote's Candy Apple Blue auto spray paint (rattle can) on some wood and the resulting color was close to chrome blue but not exact. Tell me how you do.

You may have to get a good color picture and visit an autobody paint supplier in your town. Most of these places will custom mix colors (spray or canned) for a price. Usually, they use computer matching to get the color right. Although it is more expensive than off the shelf options, it may be your best bet... Chris D.

Having seen Eric identify batteries in a series of Fuzzfaces at random while I stood with his bemused guitar tech a couple of years ago, I can testify to the fact that he can hear the difference. That being said, he is a little crazy. I heard him play through a Pod into a desk at the same venue just to try it out and it sounded like Eric Johnson playing thru his very large pedalboard into his multi amp assembly. I agree that sometimes his tone is hard to get into, but for everyone who "gets" Vai's tone there is someone who thinks Buddy Guy's is better and for everyone who digs Fripp or the Edge, there are people who think that Big Bad Brad or the guys from Slipknot have something to offer (go figure).

Thank you for your posts. This is a problem I am going to be dealing with shortly and has occupied my mind lately. Your experiments and findings have been very helpful. Thanks for the insight. Regards, Chris Dennis

I know that, here on the East Coast of the U.S., that 80s hard rock cadre (Cinderella, Dokken, Poison, etc.) still set out large clubs and small open air venues every summer. Lynch did tour in the past 4 months throughout the U.S. and his line of ESP guitars still sell (surprisingly) well in this region. I think that, although Europe and Japan are more supportive of traditional hard rock, the "fire never died" over here, despite all the Linkin Park/Limp Biskit/Cookie Monster Metal that radio seems to embrace now. Back on topic -- that is a great looking axe and an excellent tutorial. Thank you and congrats!

Hello! Try in cabinet design forum here: http://www.the-crossroads.org/ or go here: http://colomar.com/Shavano/construction.ht...nstruction.html and scroll down to "Speaker Cabinets/Cases/Wood Items" Either should get you started. Chris D.

Yeah, the transparent blue tutorial on Stew Mac's site covers this particular finish photographically and step-by-step. It is invaluable. Definitely practice on scrap for a bit. My first refinish was a blue transparent figured strat and I was surprised at how easy it was, but it fell into place only after some dedicated practice. As far as the HT-10 kit is concerned, proceed very slowly and sand with caution and you will be okay. Make sure that you sand slowly under direct light (e.g., a shop or study lamp) and you will minimize the possibility of sand throughs. Patience will reward you. Best, Chris D.

Hello! I used RIT black to bring out the figure in some scrap maple once. It looked great, but I did notice that sodium was one of the ingredients on the package. This prevented me from using it on a guitar veneer. Something about putting a salt solution on bare wood doesn't feel right to me, even if there is no ill effect. That said, someone in Reranch.com's gallery used black RIT for this purpose exactly under their transparent black cherry strat copy. I guess your mileage truly does vary.... Chris D.

Thank you! Your explanation makes sense (which is probably why I could not figure it out myself!). Regards, Chris D.

Hello! Has anyone mounted any of the boosters (asided from the Stratoblaster) whose schematics are available on the web? I am thinking of mounting an LPB-2, similar to this: Schematic here in my strat. Can anyone tell me how, once I remove the input jack from the equation (the layout is for a stompbox-mounted booster), do I wire the pickups or volume pots to feed into the preamp board (i.e., what will input wiring look like?)? Any info, even if it does not apply to the LPB, but to some other booster, is appreciated. Regards, Chris Dennis

I only used it once on a body... I shot it over Reranch nitro LPB about four years ago. It yellowed very slightly after 2 years time. It looks okay on this instrument ('59 strat copy) because this same thing has happened on vintage Fender instruments. I prefer acrylic lacquer now (no yellowing, less chance of checking, etc.), but your mileage may vary. Regards, Chris D.

Don't know if this is helpful... I have used the Deft Gloss Clear, in both the rattle can and through a Preval sprayer, and it is good and inexpensive. I should say that I like Reranch.com's stuff slightly better, but not enough to want to shell out the extra $$$ required. The only drawback I could see is that it yellows perceptibly over time, but all nitrocellulose lacquer does. I use Deft (exclusively) for necks, regardless of how I have finished the rest of the guitar. Some Deft, some dye, some fine steel wool and you have a nicely finished neck. Just my $0.02... Chris D.

FWIW: I used the Duplicolor Mirage system on my battered, Fernandes LE-2 strat copy. I went with the green to purple paint kit. As long as you have been thorough with sanding, filling and using the primer that comes with the kit, you will have good results. By following the process outlined at reranch.com and using the kit, your results should be very good. Note that you should provide AMPLE curing time (3 wks+) for best results. A friend used the Krylon blue to purple Mystique kit on his Dinky copy and it came out nicely. He did have some problems getting adjusted to heavy output from the nozzle at first (which is why it is alway best to practice on scrap to get a feel for these things). I think that, by working slowly and deliberately, these products can produce excellent finishes. I am on the road now, when I get back home (this weekend) I can post pictures.

That is sweet looking! What paint color is that on the body? Regards, Chris D.