westhemann

Your jig appears to have worked well

I think everyone will experience the "too heavy" guitar at some point.I don't care how good it sounds if it's too heavy it will just sit on the wall and mock you...

According to the article Rad posted here http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46261-project-s9-continued/page-26 All of that you just posted about hot hide glue vs liquid hide glue is wrong.Don't be mad,a lot of what I thought about epoxy was not 100% accurate either.I am always willing to change my beliefs to suit the facts though,so I have gone back to titebond for everything except freboards. You have never seen water cup wood?Never?I find that tough to believe...and that IS the part of titebond that cups wood.Fretboards are just thin enough to really cause an issue.The fact that you start talking about your army of clamps just shows that you are in fact aware of the problem...It happens to everyone. Epoxy has no water,so wood does not move around it like Titebond...so you don't have to be so worried about getting a clamp on every inch of the edge.

Yeah the SM "Hot Rod" is well built,but 1/16" taller and takes an oddball size router bit(which of course SM sells and is expensive),and meanwhile they have been sitting on their asses for the last few years while everyone else has started making rods just as strong for less money that fit in a 1/4" rout and are 1/16" less tall... 1/16" isn't much,but it really makes a difference in a neck...of course,half of the guitar building world thinks a thick neck means better tone and fits a hand better,but the other half of us know that to be bulls***

Keith is correct of course.CC is cubic centimeter which doesn't have much to do with power.It is a measure of the amount of space in all of the piston cylinders combined at full open stroke.The more "space" available to compact air and fuel for the spark to burn,the more "potential" power you have,but other things affect efficiency and a larger engine running at lower power efficiency can be outdone by a smaller engine at peak efficiency...my motorcycle is 967 CC and has 97 peak hp...same as your "average"1200 cc motorcycle,just as an example.Another example is that a 153 hp 4 cylinder 2.0 liter motor is commonplace in small cars today,but in 1972 with emission regulations changing power output 140 hp was considered decent output on your standard 5.0 liter ford V8(all measurements net HP) The salesman was lying to you or he has no idea what he is talking about.And to be clear,"watts" is the correct power unit for electric motors,HP is for internal compustion(like your snowblower)...electric motors have no cc displacement. HP can be used to measure an electric motor,but is not as precise(like an inch is not as precise as a mm) in such small motors..but there is no such thing as using wattage to measure the output of an internal combustion engine. Clear as mud?good By the way,I make no gaurantee of 100% accuracy on the hp numbers of the Ford 5.0(302)...every year was different and they changed HP ratings to net hp somewhere in there,adding to the confusion...suffice to say a modern 2.0 liter is roughly as powerful as your average V8 from the 70s.. by the way,in a 2 stroke motor(like a snowblower),cc is used instead of power output..and you won't find much else as a power rating...it's not accurate,but there you have it. Or to sum it all up simply,CC is a measure of a motor's size,HP is a measure of a motors ouput...in electric motors,CC is not applicable,but wattage is,and wattage is also an accurate power rating system for it... Sorry for the hijack.The guitar looks like it will be awesome

You need to leave 1/8" of wood behind the truss rod.Everything else can be played with,so choose the thinnest double action truss rod you can,make the fretboard no more than 3/16" thick at the center of the radius,and even choosing less tall frets can make the net feel thinner. I put a volute on my necks to add support behind the adjustable end of the truss rod(it is always bigger than the rest of the rod).FYI most double action truss rods are 3/8" tall and 1/4" thick.I have used these before and they work well.That makes the neck capable of being 1/2" thick not including the fretboard,which is very thin. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-COURSE-GUITAR-TRUSS-ROD-TWO-WAY-OR-TWO-420mm-LENGTH-/150990968503?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2327c356b7

Alder is capable of the most midrange IMO

No..sometimes they do that.As a promotional deal

A local Grizzly vendor?Does anyone know if they do that?I thought they were mail order only unless you happened to live near the manufacturer

I do love the darker tone of sapele. I have no experience with kayha in tone,but I am working with it now and the "tap tone" is more "bell like" than sapele. The Sapele/maple V I built a while back is dark indeed in tone,but still very clear,possibly from the neck being rock maple and the top big leaf maple.I quite like it Not that that agrees or disagrees with anything posted here,but I felt like sharing.Must be the huge cup of espresso I just had

I have seen very similar articles to that first one you posted(glue),even using the same joint and breaking technique,but the ones I saw did not do loose fits to test,which I feel is very important and was glad to read about.Maybe I have seen you post it before and just assumed it was one of the others. I always knew that slow set epoxy was strong on loose joints,but seeing the actual numbers compared to Titebond really did surprise me.Close enough in most cases to not even matter. I wish more people were aware of Gorilla Glue's inadequacy.I debate with people in real life constantly about it.I always hear "It's the strongest glue on Earth" from them.They repeat the slogan without really making the connection that it is just a sales pitch,and that ad slogans are rarely accurate...but 50% of the strength of Titebond is a travesty...to go through all of the mess involved with that glue and end up with a weak bond is just a shame....not to mention Gorilla Glue is $12 around here for a bottle of a size that costs $3 in Titebond. And the worst part?Every single hardware/big box store around here stocks it and has a special little stand set up for it at the end of the aisle where you can't miss it and it's big logo,as if it were a small fireworks stand...meanwhile Titebond and Elmers wood glue are hidden in the aisle beyond...5 or 6 bottles compared to 50 bottles of Gorilla. I despise how easy it is to fool people with marketing.It fooled me when it first came out(I asked about it at a "fine woodworking" shop when I first saw it at the counter and was assured it was much better than "wood glue")I started out using it on tops(in my estimation it was tough to know how tight the center of a top was and I wanted it's legendary "gap filling" ability...I was pissed about the mess foaming so much it spilled over my saran wrap I always use and ruining my aluminum counter top and floor...but I was really pissed more recently when I discovered those tops were starting to separate in places at the glue line and those splits soaked up CA like it was going out of style.My resulting recent tests of it were horrifying when I was breaking test joints(butt joints) with my fingers after full cure. That is more of a rant than I intended.I better stop before my head explodes.

That is quite the handsome paint job on that Anv edition...man that would look good in my garage.Wish I could afford one right now

I love that article.I was surprised that Titebond was almost as strong on a loose joint as T88...bt not surprised at all that poly glue failed miserably...pays to listen to me sometimes...HA!

Doesn't seem like it,but I did forget to mention that the Grizzly has rave reviews and on this forum is consistently named as the best "bang for the buck" medium range bandsaw... Think of me as like the forum search engine.I have a huge amount of past topics in my head and when I hear "best bandsaw for under $750" I am going to give you the one that I would buy for myself no questions asked based on everything I have read on the matter. Buy it or don't,why do you think I care?But if you post that you are considering a blemished model that is still overpriced in comparison when you compare the features then I will tell you what I think...because I think that IS what you asked for?Opinions,not coddling? The Jet COULD be a good value.It also could be a huge mistake.If you were truly concerned about your money you would think about that,and if you truly were doing the research you say you are your questions would be more like "why is the Jet so much more expensive than the Grizzly with the riser block when the specs are so similar?",but instead you appear to be thinking "Oh look,the jet is usually $1000 but I can get a dented one for $600 so it must be a huge deal" The hard truth is that the vast majority of people only have some experience with more than one or two bandsaws,because they are expensive.Read the reviews and make whatever decision you want,I truly could care less about what you buy...but try to recall that I give you a ton of information when you ask,and trying to constantly harangue me for it is very ungrateful and tiresome. http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G0555-Ultimate-14%2522-Bandsaw/dp/B0000DD0AC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367518159&sr=8-1&keywords=go555+ultimate+bandsaw And on the "everyone is out to get me" front...It's never you,huh?All of the people on all of the forums on the 'net just talk the way they do to you for no reason?I sit here and watch this forum tick along peacefully until you or a bare handful of others pops in and then the problems start...but it couldn't possibly be you,could it?

I think I was unclear.I didn't really say your thinking was flawed,I was sort of implying(without saying it as clearly as I should have because of ISP spottiness causing me frustration) that this is a decision that should be easy for you IMO. I do find myself hard pressed to keep an attitude of helping right now.For better or worse something about the way you type and respond draws a certain reaction from me which is less than helpful.I will take the blame for altering the tone of this topic and I will try to ignore the sideshow,which appears to be something you started with Fly.This Doesn't seem like it should result in this After that I sort of think you got what you got.You can't start the issue then complain about the result...something I try to keep in mind myself,because I am guilty often of such things. Regardless,even though I find it tedious to explain something that seems so basic to me,I will try.A used bandsaw has more to it than just a spinning blade that can go wrong.A forklift damaged bandsaw is unlikely to function perfectly,no matter what the seller who is trying to unload it says.If the stand is bent,the bandsaw will be hard to use in a stable manner.If the casing is bent it could interfere with the blade tracking,and a crooked cutting bandsaw is very frustrating.Instead of being cautious about a claim of perfection in a bandsaw that has been hit by a forklift,you sound more like the guy trying to sell it."It is perfect and awesome and I want it" The new machine with the riser kit is not only new with a warranty,it is much less expensive...$799 is only a $200 discount from the full price of the damaged one...it's damaged,dude...damaged.It is worth less than half the full price...they most likely have already been reimbursed by the manufacturer or insurance,and if they have not they are just trying to recoup a loss. You(knowing how much you build) are not going to need to constantly resaw 12" of wood.On a guitar,when you resaw a 7" piece,you get a 14" top...and if you did resaw a large piece once in a while you could go slowly.The slight bit of extra juice is unneeded for your application I should think. Now,that is all the help I will offer because answering your questions results in a tedious amount of response because you seem unable or unwilling to do any tiny bit of research on your own.When people have to explain everything in such a manner,it makes us feel like we are talking to a child,which is why you tend to draw flak. In simpler terms,Damn man do some research on your own!You are a highly trained professional that should be able to figure out where to get at least the basic info to make your questions more specific.You have been here long enough to be past the constant hand holding you seem to want and yet resist at the same time. I am out of this topic.You have to be receptive to opposing advice if you wish to continue to have questions answered.Keep in mind only 3 people have responded to your question at all,and you insulted one and responded to me with a line of questions intended to show that you were more knowledgeable in your estimation than that,leaving me with a choice of either just taking the insult or typing out an overly simple step by step explanation of my point of view.Unfortunately I took choice #2

I already answered that,I won't be drawn in to your game. And no,I won't answer "what game?".You know very well the response you are looking for.

Discussions are by nature a sharing of opinions,not a sharing of ill will,that is what I mean by that...Ju Ju is an expression meaning "good vibes" or similar."Newb" is a term used to describe in this case somebody new to guitar building,who tend to gravitate towards the same lines of discussion over and over like "how can I get rid of a truss rod" or "is tung oil better for tone than poly"..which of these terms do you find inaccurate? Now,are you TRYING to create a problem?Bob doesn't need a public defender,he is a grown man and quite physically imposing in real life,he has no need for you.If you have an opinion about the topic,state it.Trust me,if Bob does not like my "tone" he will PM me like a grown man and we will sort it out like always. To be honest,I find your tone by far more trying than Bob's or anyone else's,since you are obviously trying to stir up trouble in a quite polite,if passionate, discussion Me and Pros also "call em as we see em...matter of fact,that is part of our duty here,for quite a long time.

By the way,we both do know Bob pretty well and have more of an internet relationship than just this topic.Familiarity is not disrespect

What are you talking about?If we feel a statement is flawed there is no reason we should not state our opinion.Nobody is "disrespecting" anybody. Really?You do know that most trains still do run on wheels and that magnetic fields won't work unless you have roads of metal?So that is not useful at all for most transportation?So the wheel is in fact still the best mode of land transport in terms of economic feasibility over a wide variety of terrain... Anyway,I stand by everything I have stated.If you don't like opinions you are in the wrong place. If Prostheta or I were truly "disrespectful",as you think,then this would not be a mere discussion,now would it?

It is a common belief that removing more wood than necessary is detrimental to tone,mostly among newbs looking for fantastically ju-ju filled instruments that will have the soul of the tree embedded into it's heart so that the aforementioned newb will have his musical deficiencies reduced by the resulting magical voodoo. But experience converts these beliefs to be the myth that they always were.

Glue lines just tend to stand out on lighter woods like maple...especially epoxy lines.Titebond shows up much less on maple because of the color I think. One good way to hide the glue lines is to put a darker piece of wood between your pieces of maple

A used 14" for $700 or a 14" Grizzly brand new with a riser block kit and great reviews for less? You need to learn how to make good decisions without waiting for a consensus.

Yeah.I am pairing the remainder of the neck with the mahogany,which will be another F body.Set neck or bolt on..I have not decided yet. Most likely a set neck,knowing me. The wings will be paired with some limba I have for a six string neck through.I'll most likely start that one in this thread as well and do them both at the same time

The best bandsaw I know of in that range is this one http://www.grizzly.com/products/The-Ultimate-14-Bandsaw/G0555 With this added http://www.grizzly.com/products/Riser-Block-Kit-for-G0555/H3051

Say hello to my little friend! Rest in hell