westhemann

well..you have me convinced.that guy is quite good.and he seems to play in the lower registers very easily... i don't know what it is,but i don't think my hands would comfortably do that.i have decently long fingers,some people have said too long..but maybe i just have bad fretboard mechanics. very interesting though.

+1 on hiscocks book.very informative without being biased to any particular methods

ipe is just considered so because it is about the densest thing you can find in lengths that will support being used for decks and such. there is a wood supplier close to austin that has a ton of ipe...

mr. wood. keep the topics where they belong.this does not belong in acoustic and solidbody chat.

those marshall combo amps aren't really good for metal.it's the open back speaker enclosure coupled with the not enough gain. i normally would not reccomend line 6 for metal....but for you,i think it woud get all the sounds YOU are after...after a few years if you increase your skills though,you will at that time want to upgrade

sorry.i apologize.my post sounded way harsher than it should have.i worded it wrong. anyway...here is a hardness chart http://www.thevirtualshowroom.com/HWD/SldW...dness_chart.htm as you can see...the hardness of ebony far ouweighs just about anything.making sanding very tedious. you have already said you never radiused ebony.so how do you know?but i radiused my last ebony board to 12"... if you do have to take any thickness away it will greatly increase time spent..but just a simple radius to 16" on ebony i would GUESS(only a guess...like i said i don't radius to 16")would take close to two hours...not counting frequent breaks for fatigue.... when i took 1/16" off my one ebony board...i dicked around with it for close to a week...about an hour a day...those are just "close" numbers. my point is...if you want a nightmare in pain and fatigue,and you need a good workout,hand radiusing ebony will get you there. my suggestion is to buy ebony preradiused or build a jig for your router...

check out bocote as well...it works like rosewood,but is obviously a different color,so depending on what you are looking for itmight be a good choice.

well...the engl powerball is nice...depending on what you want... it has an insanely versatile clean channel...it is very,very clean...then it will do the "vintage" type rock thing,and the two high gain channels are great for metal...if you like the jcm 900 it has a similar cutting tone...but the engl has gobs more gain,plus the ultra channel is very bottom end oriented,if you want thump... i don't know....it's the most versatile head i have ever used...but i wish it had built in reverb.that would really make it perfect.

nah...go classic with some "anesthetia(pulling teeth)" you have to christen that bad boy with some cliff burton...i love that bass solo so much i even learned most of it once...and i don't even like the bass as a solo instrument

www.tremel-no.com kevan is an admin here,though he is too busy over there to be here right now i think.. but he has a forum over there...and he can answer all of your questions about the tremel-no...he has spent alot of time in design on it.

i said hours..i meant it.you have no idea what you are talking about,mr. i aiun't never dun it mattia told you the same thing...fine,whatever.i know you are all talk. here is an idea...get an ebony board and just do it.then you can talk all you want...

http://colomar.com/Shavano/demeter_ssc1.gif this is seriously cool...i MUST build one.

take their word on it...no bridge ground

i don't measure it...i just set it to skim the surface

dude...i would be risking serious blade damage and tearout cutting that deep..i set it so it barely skims it...1/16" takes about 15 passes or so. but no,i don't take off a 1/16" on the radius side...i go off the back...i DID take it off the front once...when i already glued it up before i realized i needed to thin it...god that was a nightmare. but it doesn't matter.you would be surprised how slow ebony radiuses with a block.and the closer you get to the radius,the more surface you are sanding... hell yeah...that time is better spent elsewhere...like final prepping before fretting

the kahler 7300 sits just as far above the body as a recessed floyd...my explorer has no neck angle.and yes,you can use a floyd nut.

i used to use a 12 1/2" planer...i loved it on some bodies it was enough...on the others i planed the wood before joining it...what i liked it best for was necks and fingerboards

emg actives do this as well...it's a wiring harness

it means you are already close...15 minutes of cleanup after glueing to a neck vs hours of hand sanding with a radius block You're exaggerating. Hours? I've radiused and trued up the fretboard on my latest project in 45min. Ebony would have taken longer but there's no way it would takes hours. then do it...tell me how much you like it. "i have never done it but it can't be true" ...well i have done it.it's true.i am not exaggerating

i did not say that,do not put words in my mouth. i said that the stewmac radiused blocks i have are imperfect,and that buying a radius blck and expecting to get a perfect fretboard radius with it is unreasonable...imperfect tools= imperfect work. like this laptop keyboard...on my desktop last i was here my typing was perfect...on this sloppy keyboard my typing sucks ass...you are no better than the tools you use do not turn my specifics into generalities

I was talking about machine fit parts(say motor parts, bearings, straight edges and such). Wood expands and contracts with moisture. It is a material that just can't hold an edge like other materials. I am by no means calling sloppy tolerances acceptable though. okay...gotcha

it means you are already close...15 minutes of cleanup after glueing to a neck vs hours of hand sanding with a radius block

you know you can adjust the travel ,right?or arre you hitting the wood in the bottom of the rout first?because you can rout them deeper than 1" if that is the case. but to pull a floyd up that much,you have to recess it further,or you have to have it leaning forward at pitch,and either way to keep from fretting out during pullup your entire action up and down the neck must suffer...not soi with the kahler

i had a really nice reply all wrote out and lost it because of my g-damned internet.... i am not going to even try to repeat it...but i will just say my radius blocks from stewmac suck,and ebony is very difficult to radius by hand. don't accept imperfection in your tools,or your work can never be top quality...i get much better results by ordering preradiused and cleaning it up from there by hand... imo the only blocks good enough are the aluminum ones,and they cost too much. if i accept a less than perfect radius block,then my radius won't be right,my fret job won't be right,and my guitar will play like an ltd model....ltd models are cheaper to buy than to build...so there you go i assure you my lost post was much more eloquent

not when those radius blocks you buy from stewmac are imperfect...which they are.the machinery lmii and the other places use to radius is much more accurate than sanding with the radius blocks in my experience