westhemann

shhhweeet.. i like the class of that bass...the headstock is a little bit of a contrast to the body,but that is probably just me

i once had a jackson with ultra low action and zero fret buzz...it was one of thhose pro models...i think it was just a fluke that the neck was so straight... but the strings were laid almost on top of the frets...i kept missing my bends though. i hated that guitar and sold it soon after i bought it.nothing to do with the action...more the body style and balance

"hella" is early eightees,greg.read a metallica cd jacket sometime maiden...well,i have not seen one in person...but i think it would be pretty easy to lay down that sick grey as a base,then spray some black through a frisket template,and clear it funny thing...i ordered one when they first came out...but the store (online) dicked me around about the availability,so i canceled the order....so i almost had one to look at in person. reason i wanted it was not so much the art,but rather the fact that it was the cheapest neck thru mahogany bodied rgt available at the time

it's just paint

i was thinking about the use of two truss rods side by side....some extended range basses do this and it holds up well.plus it helps prevent twisting

i eyeball it for the most part...straightness and comfort along with flowing into the body are the most important to me

very interesting. i ordered a sheet of it large enough for 4 fretboards at 3/16" thick for $18 roughly...sounds like fun for experimenting. it comes in a variety of thicknesses and sizes.could be good for inlays and such as well..or just about anything. knucklehead...it holds up well?i would assume so or you would not use it.

i have never heard of this...where is a good place to buy this and how does it compare to ebony in weight and cost

notice the zero neck relief

duh i thought i covered that...to push more speakers you need more wattage...but in the end you are getting a better "spread" of your sound throughout the space you are in

well..i will try to answer your question,drummerdude..if my net don't cut me off.. to get the lowest action possible...you need (all this is in my experience and opinion...but i am sure some of it will start an argument) 2 way truss rod...you need to have complete control over the neck when you build the guitar,you MUST level the fretboard PERFECTLY before fretting...you need a large readius...ibanez uses around 16" iirc and i always get the best action specs from their neck thru's..compound radius will work very,very well(10" to about 16")the radius is important for bending with low action... seat the frets perfectly.....you absolutely want the most level fretboard you can get set your nut height right(that would be exactly flush with the top of the fret)you should really use a steel nut for this(all mine havce locking nuts)because the slots on a regular nut will wear down and buzz too quickly) when you string your guitar up...use 9s(why use heavier strings when after all you are after ease of fretting),tune to pitch,and make sure your fretboard is still straight,use the truss rod to get it straight...(i don't use neck relief...neck relief makes my action higher...i really don't care about the argument for neck relief,i just don't find it to be effective) after you do all that,take your strings down until you get buzz...then raise a hair...you really need a bridge with individual saddle height adjustment so every string is adjusted to your preference it is all common sense...which is why you are not getting much feedback....the answer of getting low action is pretty dang simple but others disagree...some believe that you must have neck relief...i don't.i just don't see the validity of the geometry of that...i think more likely that is a leftover from the days when all guitars had one way conventional truss rods and didn't allow much neck control. soapbar is right...some guitars just do not allow super low action.i find that those are the guitars that have the old school truss rod. anyway.i am sure this will get ripped apart...but that is exactly how i do it....to get roughly 1.2 mm to 1.5mm action on all the necks i have built in the last few years..

yeah...x still don't want to talk about it though

i use as low action as i can get...usually around 1.5mm if you are like me and work full time,and only play 30 minutes to an hour a day...then low action is incredibly important to maintaining decent speed without injuring yourself...light gauge strings too. if you play hours a day and always warm up...then you are not like me,and action is much less important. having said that...the difference between 1.5 mm and 1mm in feel is not much.and it aint gonna help you shred...only talent can do that(and hours of practice) steve vai i heard practices 8 hours a day...any body here do that?i wish i could

heavy strings do not equate to a heavier sound... for my money,i prefer 9s... i feel they have a sharper attack

i recently recieved in myt regular mailbox a letter that said in big bold letters "you,mr.fisher,are a sex god!" i took it to work and showed everybody...told them i finally got the recognition i deserve

i agree with setch...i had 2 gibsons...a les paul and an explorer,and both had poorly cut slots that would bind up

i quite like it...it is a bit "different",but so what?

quite the inflammatory little post you have there...glad you could pull up a longdead topic just to throw that out... you are wrong of course...spray cans DO take longer to cure than the 2 part finish "equivalent".it does take significanly longer to build the coats with the spraycans vs the real thing.spray can poly will never cure as hard as 2 part auto poly...it's just a completely different product...altogether... yes they are both polyeurethane based..but that is about as far as it goes... it's obvious your post was meant to start a flame war...well,you will not get one here...dino has not been back since he was busted out for the cheap tactics of double id posting(or whatever you wish to call it),and i,being the other guy on the "high quality" finishing side,am not going to rise to the bait. not sure who you were reffering to as the guy with no experience with the spraycans...i have tried just about everything i could get my hands on,including those "miracle" colortone cans...yes,for spraycan stuff it works fairly well...but for building a thick finish it just doesn't cut the mustard.i really despise waiting months to assemble my guitar,and still having thetuners sink into the finish... if all you are doing is having fun,use whatever you want...it doesn't matter to me...but i want my guitars to look good for longer than it took to build them. but you know...there IS a reason those 2 part polys are so expensive..the workability and schedule of my little 2 part sherwood stuff is so superior to anything i have found in a can on a shelf that it is well worth the extra cost to me.but as i said before,it still works out as cheap or cheaper in the end...plus i get to have a more pleasant experience applying it. i will be switching to the big boy stuff after this guitar though...me and Dupont are going to be best friends.can't wait to get the spray shed done why thank you.i can only assume that you got here by mistake then?not sure what qualifies you as better than the other "mindless guitar builders" around here...maybe your charming personality?maybe you meant to type www.nasa.com and accidentally typed in www.projectguitar.ibforums.com...it is an easy mistake to make... why...i myself meant to order a cheeseburger yesterday but ended up at kentucky fried chicken...then i yelled at the tiny little girl behind the counter because,as i see it,how dare she work in a place that serves up fried chicken when what i CLEARLY wanted was a cheeseburger? alas though...i had to go across the street to whataburger...they fixed me up

i don't see any flame or quilt to "bring out" all i see are very nice ring patterns or whatever they are called...you can't make those "pop"...there is nothing to pop... just clear it...it looks nice enough.you CAN use colored grain filler and make the pores stand out,but i don't know why you would want to make the pores stand out...some people do though

dang it...i have been spraying varnish today and am not thinking clearly... i was thinking of these http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,...r_Machines.html when i read les paul i automatically thought of the vintage les pauls with the open back tuners...i bought these grovers a while back to use on a project(i was trying to make something out of one of those rondo pieces of trash)and i wanted the waverly'sbut went with the cheaper grover instead...which look almost identical. i never used them...still have them if they are closed back tuners any quality brand will do...i prefer schaller or gotoh myself...

what?

the tailpiece is not angled...only the bridge

waverly

once again,very nice...great wood choice and i like the way you positioned the grain on the body

probably a poly finish....takes alot of buffing to remove that...i did it ince on a poly finish with the 3m auto compounds you get at wal mart....rough cut,medium cut,and fine cut.....i did it by hand...it took a LONG time i think in your business,scott,you might find a buffing wheel very handy,i have not used one though...i just hear that is the way to go on poly