unclej
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Everything posted by unclej
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Now that is a darned good idea, thanks unclej! you're more than welcome..hope it works for you.
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wonder what it would have been worth if it had featured a penciled in profanity..seems like it would have been even more rare.
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i generally use two different types of material for neck shims..coke cans and veneer...whichever i have on hand. in my head it seems like the can is better because it won't compress. it cuts easily with scissors and you can stack a couple of pieces to get the height that you want. i can't honestly say that i've ever noticed a tone difference between a shimmed neck and a non-shimmed neck. that being said i would imagine that producing a "thin wedge of wood to fit into the entire neck pocket" would be a pretty tedious task. what you might consider is a piece of veneer to cover the entire pocket and then a seperate shim at the heel. maintain your sanity don't cha know? good luck.
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i'm getting ready to do a search online myself but i trust the judgement of you guys so i thought i'd throw it out here first. i do a lot of sculpting and smaller craft type items using rough, found wood..sort of like driftwood. setting up a spray rig for the smaller pieces isn't practical so i rely on rattle cans. i've used cheap old ace hardware brand satin poly for years but over the last six months or so it has started to dry somewhere between semi-gloss and gloss and i don't like the look so i'm looking for a reliable clear matte or true semi-gloss finish in rattle cans. i pay less than four bucks a can now and can't pay too much more than that and keep my profit margin up. any help will be appreciated. thanks
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the answer to your question depends on several things..what your woodworking skills are, what tools you have available to you and most importantly, what the table is made of. a pressed wood table with a formica top won't make a very good one but if it happens to be maple or mahogany or even oak in some cases it should work fine for a first project. let us know a few more details and maybe we can give you more specific advice.
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i use a torch frequently on my sculptures to shade certain areas and with a little practice you can achieve a pretty consistent effect. as with anything new practice on some scrap wood to see how close to get, how quickly to move it, how high to set the flame, etc. and keep a bucket of water handy just in case.
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this thread has me very curious..what is the advantage or the tone difference if you will, to being able to make either coil of a humbucker hot? my mind tells me you wouldn't be able to hear anywhere near the difference in tone as you would by tapping the neck pup and tapping the bridge pup. considering the close proximity of both coils on a humbucker would you get much tonal difference unless they were wound differently?
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How Do You Guys Clean Your Hardwares?
unclej replied to redwhiteandthemaple's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
when i get a guitar in the shop with a lot of tarnish/rust/bubbles i take the little wire brush bit for my dremmel tool and burnish it with that. i've never had it take off any of the plating and it leaves a nice patina. for new stuff that's just plain dirty canned air or a q-tip and a little windex works fine. -
one of the toughest jobs i ever had in my woodshop was to turn several bowls out of the ends of some true 6x12 floor joist made of loblolly pine out of a house that was built in atlanta, ga. in 1835. hardest damned wood i ever saw and all of the sap had turned into amber and dulled my tools like i was turning steel. doesn't have anything to do with your wood or your project..just sayin'
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before you start removing stuff make yourself a detailed diagram of where each and every wire goes. then unsolder the wires, remove the electronics and get to sanding. if you're diagram is detailed and you mark each pot and pickup as to where it came from you shouldn't have any trouble at all...good luck.
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goodle diy ukulele and you'll find more sites than you can shake a pick at..good luck with your project.
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yep..it's called guitar fret wire..ok, that sounded a little more smartassed than i intended but that's what i use when someone wants a little larger wire than is available..i've only done it to a couple of mandolins..never a banjo and i had to enlarge the fret slots just a bit but it worked out fine.
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how old is your hose? one possibility is that the fibrous lining of your hose..assumimg that it's a rubber hose..is breaking down and the fibers inside are coming loose. you might try picking up a new hose and see if that eliminates it.
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don't know exactly what type of bridge you're using but if it's a top loader like a schaller or abm you can usually and easily drill an angled hole under your bridge into the control cavity. solder a wire to your grounding point inside the cavity. strip a half inch of insulation from the other end of the wire and insert it into the hole until it protrudes onto the top of the guitar and then clean off a spot on the bottom of the bridge where the wire will contact it and then just screw the bridge down.
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i had forgotten about this thread until just now..one of my instructors ordered a scalloped replacement neck for his strat a few months ago and i just asked him to see how how the "bend" would go if he pressed the string to the bottom of the fret and it was exactly 1/2 step. again, you could scallop it deeper i suppose but not much and probably not enough to get a full step without being in danger of going into your trull rod pocket.
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a zero fret is a fret set into the fretboard just below the nut. it replaces the nut as the beginning of the guitars scale length. the nut slots are cut low enough so that the strings rest under pressure on the zero fret. i've heard that it's better for intonation but wouldn't swear that that's it's main purpose.
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that's pretty cool. goes well with that guitar.
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sorry this took so long..i guess the forum was down for a day..at least i couldn't get on. anyway, here's my modified tele..it's actually more like a thin line being a semi-hollow body.
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i use a basic spindle sander..which aren't too expensive..to smoth out the inside of the horns before i round the edges over. then a compination of a flap sander for the hand drill and my palm sander..and then the final sanding is done by hand. i'm one of those weird guys that actually enjoys a certain amount of hand sanding..go figgur'.
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one of our electronics experts may come along and correct me but i don't see how your pickguard could be causing you any trouble. many strats, teles, ect. come with a metal film under the pickguard for shielding anyway. what kind of sounds/noise are you experiencing? if it's a lot of humming i'd first check all of your grounding wires for good connections.
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i'm off today but going into the shop for a while later and will post a pic for you of a tele like guitar that i made and submitted for the nov. or dec. guitar of the month contest. i just checked and the pics aren't here any more..but they're in my computer at work. i basically modified the lower horn to allow more access to the upper frets but i think it's a pretty pleasing shape.
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i hope he checks back and sees that..that's a great page. i copied and saved it my own self.
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i recently used the minwax brand of epoxy...at least i assume it's an epoxy. it's marketed as a wood hardener. i'm not sure how it does it but you don't have to mix it and it seems to have a good shelf life after the can is opened. anyway, i had a large piece of spalted maple that i was going to use on an art project and a lot of it was way too soft so i tried it and it worked fine. be sure to buy plenty of sandpaper. the stuff loads up a sheet pretty quick when you first start.
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when you say "blotchy" do you mean that it looks dryer in spots or just a different color? if it looks that way after only one coat that's pretty normal. the density of the wood is different in different spots so the oil soaks in more in some places than in others. put about three coats on following the directions and see if it doesn't even up after that.
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let me suggest that you dye your sawdust before you mix it with the glue. even though some stains will penetrate a glue/sawdust mixture after it has dryed it won't do it at the same level as the guitar body and it may really stand out more than if you left the crack unfilled. if you have any of the scrap lumber left from your guitar body cut a sawblade width slot in a piece and use it for a test scrap. take a drop or two of your stain and mix it with the dry sawdust and then add your glue..super glue or carpenters glue or whatever you decide. then trowell it into you slot and sand it when it's dry. apply your stain over the whole scrap and then add your tung oil and see what you think. you can always add more or less stain and try again if it comes out too dark or too light. good luck with your project.