PerryL
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Everything posted by PerryL
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SWEET. If ya have any walnut left over, make your own truss rod cover. I wouldn't sweat the screw placement, they look symetric.
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Guitarman686, This forum is great but you may have missed the excellent Project:Guitar Webpage. Here's a link to about 3 different way of stripping the finish but Do this first just to satisfy your curiosity. Remove the truss rod cover and look at the wood in the truss rod channel. If it's the same as the one I own, It's painted Plywood or Particle board and it'll look horrable with a clear finish. Just for what it's worth. Project Guitar Tutorial
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It's an older Epiphone Apollo they made for a short period of time and pulled off the market. It is very nice looking tho and since I'm deep into V's at the moment I thought I'd use it. On to the Subject at hand, I got the V sanded and rough cut today while leaving some room for experimentation. I don't wanna stick to an exact copy of one V or another, though I suppose it's inevitable. I dunno which side to use tho since One side is marked a little different than the other. Lemme know what ya think Guys!
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Duh, Sorry.
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I'd go with the slotting it. take a cutoff grinding wheel for your dremel and slot it, then turn it out with a screwdriver.
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That thing is Frikkin Huge! I like it alot. Lil bit smaller than the first one but it strangely reminds me of........
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You could use just about any wood you like the best. Be it Looks or Just workability. IF you wanna do the finish yourself you can always tape up the sides of your completed Fretboard and apply this Envirotex. http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/18/products...am=0&ig_id=2338
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Mind if i cut in here and ask why we should use ferrules in the first place. If you put extremly Hard Wood in there, wouldn't that be durable enough to hold the strings and transfer the string energy better than steel ferrules? Oh, You DO mind, Sorry, I withdraw my question.
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IMO, That's way too much. You could buy a new one for Half That at MusicYO. Kramer Striker
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OK, Today I found some new Hide Glue to use That Was Not Expired and glued my body halves together. It looks as though it's holding well and I'll leave it clamped anyhoo for 24 hours to be assured it's gonna stay that way. The last time I used Hide Glue, It was expired and this time It has an Expiry date of 12/04 so it should be fine. It was only 3.29 for a 4 oz. Bottle so it's not like I spent a bundle on a one time use. Normally, I'll use Regular Franklin Titebond Yellow but one of my previous bodies, Used Liquid Hide Glue and it left me time to reposition the parts to stay uniform. I like the way it works and sets up a lite brown color so the Mahogany won't look odd if there are any gaps showing thru. I'll keep anyone posted, On the progress and maybe I'll have it cut to shape the next time I post.
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I don't think it woulda bothered me so much but I bought that glue last year from Someplace I don't remember now but they sold it and it was already expired and they didn't know it either. Well, Now I'll just have to re-plane the edges and re-glue it.
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Heya Matt, Let us know how they feel and look when you get em. I'm wanting to make a ultralite Neck for my next project and would like to use some tuners like that with the vintage look. Cheers.
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Really sweet job there. I've always wanted to do a carved top similar to that and haven't had the nerve to try it yet but It's coming some time. Keep up the great job and Bring us more photo's as soon as you can.
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I dunno exactly what happened but it sounds like you didn't copy the link correctly. I know I have copied the Http link and and pasted the Pic instead.
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After looking thru the forum on Virgin Guitar pics I saw this and thought you might be interested. BC Rich Now That would be a lite headstock.
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Hey Matt, Ya might wanna go to the BC Rich Site and get Pics or Their "Virgin" they're almost a direct copy of Moser's Scythe.
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Oh Yeah, But it coulda been worse. All I had to do was apply a lil pressure and it came rite apart. It's a gooy mess but it scapes right off.
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I just learned something Very Valuable that some of you may not know. When using Liquid Hide Glue on guitar building or anything for that matter, ALWAYS CHECK THE EXPIRATION DATE. After assembling, clamping and Waiting for the glue to dry, 2 hours, 4 hours, it didn't seem to be setting up. I never thought that it expired. Then I remembered what my old Stew-Mac Finishing tape said. "Always check that expiration date, Because, the glue won't set and you'll be left with a weak joint and have to reset and reglue the joint. I guess I just didn't want anyone else to have to go thru all that.
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Well, Stupid me, I never checked the expiration Date on my Hide Glue and it expired 4 years ago. I have to dis-assemble the center joint, plane and re-glue with fresh Hide Glue. Sometimes, Things come back to you from the past and I have an old Stew-Mac Finishing Tape and It came back to me after waiting for the glue to dry. Seemed like it was taking forever and then the flash hit me, "Always Check the expiration date if you're using Bottled Hide Glue". Ah, Another lesson learned.
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Dang, That's what I forgot to take into account. Sanding the surface. But you're right it does look way better. I'll just have to work a lil bit harder, No Biggie. Man, Does it take Hide Glue a long time to cure......still waiting. I guess I'll give it 24 hours and that should be enough. I'm kind of in a rush to get it cut to the template dimensions. Now I know what they mean when they say"Waiting For Paint to Dry". Thanx MzI.
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I do have this pattern that I used to plan it out. I decided to cut the mahogany the length of the grain so It would match in the center and want to use a clear finish on it.
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Yep, I based it on the King V and It'll be a bolt neck unless I change my mind. I do have a neck blank of mahogany but I haven't thought that much ahead yet. As for more pics, that's all there is at the moment. I'm still waiting for the glue to dry. Hehe.
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I'm just a little bit backward about posting pics of new projects but For what it's worth, Here's a pic of the new V I'm starting. I start projects and hardly ever finish them. I have 4 others that are in the process of OR awaiting paint and electronics, It's just I never seem to find the time to finish them off. It's mahogany with Hide Glue for the adhesive.
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Repairing/customizing Old Charvel
PerryL replied to MrCruel's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
While I don't know if they do International Orders, This Duncan Scorcher is a great value for money, and Might be worth you're while to look into. Musician's Friend Duncan Performer Scorcher -
If you're top is carved, Do the forstner and sand the edges smooth but If it's a flat top use the forstner then use a short roundover router bit and round it with that. It worked for me on my "practice" piece but haven't tried it on the Real thing.