jer7440

+1 on the wet sanding tut!

Don't be so sure! I know for a fact that the fender custom shop has a couple of Hass CNC machines. I would just about guarantee that the flame inlay on that ESP is entirely cut on a cnc.

Thanks for the clarification. Makes perfect sense.

Pardon my ignorance, but why is that?

Lookin good Perry!

Awesome job Johnsilver! That guitar is stunning. You are giving me the bug to get going again.

Man! I've been away for a while. Glad to see this contest hasn't slowed down any. Great job everyone.

I can see why you call it the slasher, That kind of reminds me of my hunting knives. The body looks like a skinning blade and the headstock looks like a gut hook. Very cool.

I bet that gibson is actually dark brown sanded back. I you put yellow over black die you will end up with a really nasty snot green color. I know that pic looks kind of gross, but I still think black would have looked worse.

That's a sweet cab! you should give a tutorial on doing tolex.

I typically use the toss method to open up blades at work. Just don't toss them onto concrete...it can be very hard on them. When I recoil them, I use my foot on the floor instead of the edge of a vice like the guy in that link. I think I have better control that way.

Nice cabinet! That's quite a can collection you have there! I hope you aren't adding to that collection while you're running a router!

Hey what is the smallest cutter you use when you are cutting these things? That truss cover looks great.

That's great if you are set up to do resawing

Yeah that's what I am thinking. I'm just trying to decide if I have enough extra thickness to do this.

MZI, don't ya love it when the cnc has a mind of its own? Algee, I haven't started carving the new top yet. My maple boards are cupped a little bit, and I haven't decided how to deal with that yet. The cnc machine is at my work, but I work for my dad, so it's practically mine As long as we don't have regular work going on in the mill, he doesn't really care what I do with it.

Looking good man!

I use mastercam to write my code. 2D jobs in the mill are a piece of cake. When you start to get into the 3D stuff...thats when you time ivestment really increases. Creating good looking surfaces takes me forever, and cutting them is slow as well.

Unfortunately thegarehanman is right. It is taking me way longer to cnc this than to do this by conventional means. But like Ben said I enjoy the processes involved. Thegarehanman, what are you using to program those bridges?

It's finished! Here are some pics. Back of neck front of neck volute heel I'm not completely happy with the heel (mostly because my 3D cad sucks), but i'll sand it up and smooth it out and it will do for this time around.

Hey! I finally am back to work on this project! I was able to do some work on the neck this weekend. First thing I ran into was a problem The angle of my scarf joint was 2 deg more than my cad model. To fix this I set the neck up at the correct angle and milled the face of the headstock flat. angle fix While I had the neck at this angle anyway, I decided to cut the shape of the head stock headstock shape Then I set the neck blank up in the flat postion and cut the truss rod channel and I drilled two 1/8" locator holes that will locate the fretboard. The holes are drilled at the 12th fret marker postion and will be covered by the inlay. Locator holes and truss rod channel Next I made a steel jig to hold the neck when I flip it over to cut the back side. The jig is a piece of 1.5 x 1.5 inch cold roll steel. On the top of the jig I milled a 1/8" tall "key" that fits into the trussrod slot of the neck. This jig give me the location for the rest of my operations. neck jig The next step was to taper the neck blank Neck blank tapered This was as far as I got on Sat night. This morning I came to work early and started the carving process. Here is the neck about 1/2 carved. Hopefully will have finished pics this afternoon.

I think I spot a typo You mean the inlays? are they just simple dots, or something more complex? typo? hmm? ... they are shark teeth. KEYboards are for pianos and FRETboards are for guitars. Are you going to refret this neck? If you are you could probably hit the fretboard with a radiused sanding block and sand the burn marks out of the inlays. Otherwise I think you would need to find a way to dig the damaged inlays out of their pockets and cut new ones.

I agree with GBT. Kind of hard to navigate.

After a quick google search for "python skin", I was only able to find python skin about 10" wide. That's at least 2" probably 3" short of being wide enough to cover the entire top of that guitar in 1 piece. I think that skin is spliced together on the top and the back as well. If you look along the snakes belly part of the skin, is there a seam there? if there is it's hard to see. Whoever did it did a nice job.

Down with Mickguard the Maple Hater! Off with his head! To the pickguard guillotine!