javacody

Idch, if you like wraparound type bridges, I really must recommend my friend Steve Rowen's work at pigtailmusic.com. His wraparounds are the best and he's a master machinist. He's done lots of work for Nasa and the defense department. Anyway, his stuff is precise, the bridges fit on the studs like a very tight glove (think OJ tight). They aren't hard to get on, but there is no slop in that joint at all! They run right at $80 or so, so they are a little spendy, but they are worth every penny. You can get them from pigtailmusic.com, or I think Stew-Mac still carries them. These are the same bridges Tom Anderson is using on his Atom guitars. If you order from Steve, there may be a wait however, as he's having trouble with his platers. Once they lost a shipment of bridges!!! I won't lie, I do Steve's site (I get free parts out of the deal), but there's no profit for me hawking his products. He's got the good stuff.

Ouch, somone got rubbed the wrong way. Drak, I've always dreamed of a room full of nothing but guitars and amps. Maybe once you've built your guitars, you can use those hard-won skills to add an addition on to your house. Now back on topic somewhat, how hard is it to sand and level that Epoxy? Any tips?

How's the finishing coming Mr. Tube Snake Boogie? Have mercy.

Actually, I read somewhere that Gibson's CEO and the judge that decided against PRS had golfed together previously. I don't know whether its true, but I'm glad PRS won. The guitars, while both sharing many similarities, are easily distinguished by all but morons.

Go look at the GOTM archives to see a couple of Drak's other, non-tele guitars. I've seen other guitar types, but the Tele's so far have been the coolest.

Hey, speaking of cool guitar players who recorded with Tele's, Purple Haze was recorded on a Telecaster. Then of course, we can't forget about Keef. Rock and Roll and Telecasters go together like Peanut Butter and Jelly!

Well, roughing out the neck heel with my table saw will be fairly straight forward, I don't trust myself with chisels enough to rough out the neck pocket. I think I'm going to have to get some scrap wood and get to practicing.

I'm kinda slow with this stuff, so I'm not quite seeing how a 45 degree chamfer bit will work? Chamfer Bit Are there larger bits that would take the whole cut at once? How would I use this with a template?

Any ideas on a jig that would allow me to get this joint? http://www.andersonguitars.com/customconte...e_neck_heel.jpg http://www.andersonguitars.com/customconte...ie_body_hyp.jpg http://www.andersonguitars.com/customconte..._back_bolts.jpg

What is that stain from? Is it naturally occuring in the wood? You could maybe use wood bleach on it. If it is something someone put on the wood previously, you could just sand it off.

What is the problem? FWIW, I've used the SX as a Frankenstein of sorts. I've drilled the crap out of it messing around. The body and neck are definitely solid wood that appears to be mahogany. Also, the frets are all level and don't cut me, which is about as much as you can expect from a $120 guitar. Sorry I wasn't more clear. Both the Agile and the SX set up nicely, are made out of solid wood and seem to have decent tuners. Yeah, they are aimed at beginners or those of us with less cash. I don't mind settling for "less" than a Gibson, because I can either feed my family or I can buy a "real" Les Paul. The Agile does definitely have a paper thin veneer of flame maple on a carved mahogany body, but I don't see an issue with that. Folks on this board use veneers quite often. Fender will sell you a veneered guitar for way more than $200. The pickups and electronics are definitely subpar, as are the bridges. I've replaced those things. Again, I don't understand the attitude against Asian guitars. I've been playing guitar for 16 years and I have my 3 asian guitars hanging up next to my two USA Custom Guitars strats. I'm not ashamed of them in any way. They are fun to play, sound halfway decent, and I'm not afraid to take a drill to 'em. Wes, how many Agiles have you played? Taken apart?

Also, what about your secret truss rod treatment? Is this a trade secret ( I just read about it for the first time on your site ), or something you can share with us?

Drak, that spalt looks like a spider smoked waaay too much crack before building its web. I like it!

I think pulfering is against the law. Ron's purfling is sure cool though! LOL I agree, I really want to do purfling now. Have you guys seen his inlayed freackin tops? Just amazing. He has a koa top inlaid into a limba body. That made me pass out the first three times I looked at it. Wow!!!

Supernova9, PRS do regularly use bolt-in necks on their bolt models. Also, we've covered the spelling stuff. People do the best they can, this is a guitar forum, not a spelling forum. In my not so humble opinion, pointing out spelling errors can come accross fairly pompous. Possum, you will have to build a body and neck from scratch or mod the heck out of an existing body and neck. The from scratch options are probably your best bet. Also, I believe that the inserts you linked to are for acoustic guitar necks. Are you asking about using Ferrules instead of a jack plate, using threaded inserts with machine screws in the neck instead of wood screws, or both? My personal choices would be the neck plate and the threaded inserts with machine screws, but I really like neck plates on bolt on guitars.

You could also use a neck jig like some others here do. That should give you plenty of stability on an already cut body.

Pr3Va1L, no cabinet or furniture makers? Do you live in a very small town?

Well, there are mahogany stains out there, that really add a nice darkish red look. You might try one of those.

Did you buy the Formby's product in the woodworking section? I would guess you'd want to do anywhere from 8 or more coats.

Myka, A couple of questions. First, when can we expect more Goldtop pics? Those Sungazer's are awesome! Second, how does chambered limba sound? I've heard that chambered mahagony with p90's or paf's sounds very muddy. Has that been your analysis as well? How does limba do in this department?

Yeah, I'm not sure McDonalds has this anymore, but for a while, they were on a health kick and decided to have an adult happy meal. It included a salad, bottled water, and a pedometer and excercise booklet. I bought it for the pedometer.

Again, many things say "tung oil" on the package, but unless they say "pure" tung oil, then they are probably a varnish (like the tru-oil). Pure tung oil does not dry in a few hours, more like 12 to 24! Pure Linseed oil takes even longer (and from what I understand, may never dry, luthiers would put their instruments in the sun, as apparently, this helps the Linseed oil dry). There are some great oil based products out there though, like tru-oil. I'd also recommend Waterlox.

I'm liking the darker red more, personally.

If he is talking about Juglans Nigra (i.e. Black walnut), I think it would be ok. Here's a wayback link to the old rampart guitars website with a description for Walnut: rampart walnut That site says walnut is 1010 on the Janka scale, while Mahagony is in the 500 range and Maple is in the 1500 range. So its right between the two. Given the natural variations in wood, what you have may be denser than average. You could always try to do a scrap partial fretboard with 5 or 6 frets on it, finish it, and see what you think.

I'm not saying I would make it a feature, but for a first guitar, and a neck through at that, I think it turned out pretty darn good. Especially compared to some people's first builds.