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eddiewarlock

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Everything posted by eddiewarlock

  1. eddiewarlock
  2. eddiewarlock
    I remember when i bought my first warlock, back in 2000. It was a bronze series warlock, not a bad guitar for what i paid, but i had been watching Sepultura's 3rd world chaos DVD and i remember seeing Max Cavalera's guitar and thought " Mine doesn't look like his at all...!" That's when i said i HAD to modify it.
  3. eddiewarlock
    It's true. Allan and I are both huge BC Rich fans, and i assumed you'd build an USA neck thru body shape Warlock. Non BC Rich fans will never know.
  4. eddiewarlock
    Great! I hate slotting fretboards. Buying preslotted board and you have to reslot because the slots are too narrow isn't cool either.
  5. eddiewarlock
    Made in the USA, neck thru body ( newer)Warlock shape: Made in Japan vintage warlock
  6. eddiewarlock
    dude, why did you choose to use the cheap bolt on Warlock shape? i could have sent you the templates for the correct vintage neck thru body warlock or the newer shape too...i am sure Allan could have done the same... It even looks like the warlock bass shape...
  7. eddiewarlock
    i am a sucker for single humbucker guitars. Specially super strats. Can't wait to see this finished
  8. eddiewarlock
    ugh, those ibanez are hideous...
  9. eddiewarlock
  10. eddiewarlock
    I kinda understand you, John, i was the same when i lived in Venezuela, but because the wood choices were limited to what grew in the country and wasn't forbidden to use ( like all the mahogany and spanish cedar species) I was tempted to use caribbean pine for a neck, because i wanted something that looked like maple... But when you have available mahogany, maple, wenge, jatoba, ash, alder, etc etc etc etc, why would i even bother? It's a waste of wood, time, money and resources.
  11. eddiewarlock
    I have to agree with Luis...why do you always go thru this headache? I don't know you, but it seems like a waste of money and wood. If you don't want a bright tone, go for mahogany, or even sapelli. Both are cheap enough If not limba...
  12. eddiewarlock
    i wouldn't chuck that guitar in the bin If you manage to break the joint, it's something else you have learnt. you can, afterwards reset the neck angle.
  13. eddiewarlock
    and to break a glue joint all you need is steam and a putty knife...
  14. eddiewarlock
    for kahler you need some neck angle, not too much. Maybe with the stud mount kahler it can still work. What's your neck angle?
  15. eddiewarlock
    I am very happy to work with maple. I started building guitars in 2002, and it's just now that i really get to work with maple ( and alder) after all these years. I have carved lots of purpleheart necks, i'm sure it'll be a breeze compared to it i do need to get one of of those moisture readers. As soon as i get my paypal/ebay account sorted out i will get it
  16. eddiewarlock
    Routed pickup cavities, drilled holes for the bridge.
  17. eddiewarlock
    damn...what are the options??? the one i will build will have a wraparound bridge, so water will get there...maybe if i use clay?
  18. eddiewarlock
    i didn't know alder was like that...i've never worked with, but really wanted to and just bought a plank for 3 guitars. I'll be extra careful. although i do like to wet sand the car primer... Dry sand? or keep your wet sanding to the minimum?
  19. eddiewarlock
    Congrats man, I have been here for almost 10 years. Never even been close to winning it.
  20. eddiewarlock
    Pernambuco is also known as Pau Brasil...the wood that gave an entire country it's name...
  21. eddiewarlock
    Gold hardware has its place. While i certainly don't like a Jackson Randy Rhoads with gold hardware, with black hardware it is one of my favourite guitars. But a Les Paul Custom HAS to have gold hardware IMHO. Some PRS look fantastic with gold hardware as well, but that's about it. I like black hardware. Chrome can be a little blingy and look cheap in the wrong guitar.
  22. eddiewarlock
    i'd remove the old fretboard and use it on the new neck. Make sure you use dry wood, and try to use quartersawn maple. The recommendations giver by Yetzer Harah and DPM99 are very valid too.
  23. eddiewarlock
    that alder sure looks nice.
  24. eddiewarlock
    GOTM!!!
  25. eddiewarlock
    Moisture content is the key here... i expect some movement of individual, thin pieces, in my experience, almost all of them move, they move following the grain and that is expected and i am ok with it. i just position the pieces oppossing, so the movement gets cancelled and it's worked for me very well for years. I need to buy a moisture reader... i have been trusting too much on people...
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