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Batfink

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Everything posted by Batfink

  1. Batfink
    Terry's your man, i don't have a pic but he's just done some for me and they're spot on and reasonably priced if you take the whole sheet - around 20pcs. Shoot him a mail and tell him Jem @ Nocturne Guitars passed his details on. myguitardecals@ntlworld.com Laters, Jem
  2. Batfink
    I drill mine after paint. If your worried about cracking the finish just use a heated spike (bradawl sp?) to make your hole, pilot or otherwise, and then your finish won't crack - if it's cellulose just make sure it's fully dried, you don't want the bugger to burst into flames Jem
  3. Batfink
    Rockler ship internationally. jem
  4. Batfink
    Interesting to know but i'd still stick to dedicated spirit stains in the first place.
  5. Batfink
    Errr...aren't all SG's flat bodied ? A LP trem is made for a carved top so it's not really suitable for a slab fronted SG. Oh, and another thing - the string spacing on TOM's tends to be narrower than trems, hence F spaced pickups, so you may want to check that the 'E's aren't gonna fall off the side of the fretboard before you start buying things and hacking holes in it. Jem
  6. Batfink
    Chestnut spirit stains To name but one - c'mon there's a ton of this gear available in the UK - for once ! On a side line - are you sure that's actually a dye and not a tinted clear ? jem OH, and no offence but that Mylands stuff is water based and, in my humble opinion, a wee bit crap compared to the spirit based stuff.
  7. Batfink
    Mince into your local paint factors and ask for a bottle of G3 - it's what the pro's use. Jem
  8. Batfink
    Hmmm....Hamer were making 5 and 7 neck guitars for Cheap Trick well over 20 years ago - didn't see the point then and i'm sure i don't see the point now apart from some strange kind of on stage willy waving jem
  9. Batfink
    I'll just add that from experience if you use this under lights and in the heat of battle you won't know where the bloody hell you are - still, didn't stop me and the odd way off note add's to that blues type tension...well that's what i tell the rest of the band anyway Jem
  10. Batfink
    Just on a side note: Be aware that production moved to Korea (or somewhere simular) and although they're good they are NOT the same guitars - i've had both and the UK built one was a hell of a lot nicer although the Asian one wasn't bad. Also be aware that they've started production once again but i must admit to not have tried one of the new new one's - again, made in the East and probably very reasonable players BUT, keep an eye on Ebay and the odd bargain (a UK Tidalwave for £376 anyone !!!) does pop up from time to time. Jem
  11. Batfink
    Get yourself an adjustable one - probably the same cost or less than SM want for a non adjustable one. Just google jewellers supplies or piercing saw or even Ebay. For blades i'd stick with Swiss (or German made) #2's for general cutting moving to #3's and above as you get more confident and stop snapping them every five seconds ! Jem.
  12. Batfink
    I'm with Mattia - stuff that thin is used for overlay not inlay (such as Epiphone use for their headstock logo's). Again i'd agree that it's not wise to use it for anywhere that'll get any wear at all and 100% not for fretboards. Jem
  13. Batfink
    Rich, i've got a Versace shirt i've always been very fond of - perhaps he want's the shirt off my back Hellcat - please be a bit more specific as we're from all round the world and as Fryovanni says, there's all sorts of different stuff that you could be after. Jem
  14. Batfink
    Brasso is just the same as any other cutting compound only it's finer than most. If you want the stuff the auto pro's use grab yourself a bottle of G3 - worth it's weight so to speak ! Jem
  15. Batfink
    Might be an idea to let people know where in the world you are - just a thought.
  16. Batfink
    Perry, saved me the trouble of writing it
  17. Batfink
    Hi Mattia, I had to resort to the States for it - couldn't get any info from Microplane Europe at all !!!!! Rockler Jem
  18. Batfink
    My question is WHY you'd want to do this in the first place ? - a disaster waiting to happen. Jem
  19. Batfink
    Mince down to your local B&Q type place - they often have their chinese cheapies under £30. Check Ebay, as someone has already mentioned or failing that use a SHARP chisel to do the channel - i did for my first neck and it's fine to the point of being gigged about a dozen or so times so far and it's solid. Jem
  20. Batfink
    Those Microplane rotary shapers are the absolute dogs tits - f'kin brilliant with NO dust ! Jem
  21. Batfink
    That's OK John, just trying to help out rather than anything else - i live about a mile from Timberline so it's not as if i have a problem getting timber Jem
  22. Batfink
    Take 12 for it ? Jem
  23. Batfink
    Whatever you do be VERY careful how you sand that as it looks like Taiwanese inlay - you got it from Ebay right ? The shell they use is super SUPER thin and you can go through it in an instant. It's up to you if you clear over it or not, i tend to put a couple of thin coats over the truss rod covers i do for people just to seal it but not so it's fully done as it can look a bit plasticky ! Jem
  24. Batfink
    Yeah, i'm wondering if there's something i'm missing. Well, i think i'll cut the body over the weekend and do some tests on the scrap as it's far too cold here to spray at the moment so i've probably got at least a month before i have to make a decision. Jem
  25. Batfink
    I was at David Dykes at the weekend looking for a body blank and as i had no real preference (what'ya got Dave rather than i want i want i want) he pulled a peice of Sycamore out (European Maple) which has some slight growth discolouration but also some very strong flame and i want to dye/stain this to really pull the flame out rather than use tinted clear on it. Now i've read up on the 'black-sand-back' but all these seem to be tops rather than the complete body so i ask if anyone has done it to a whole body? Now, i realise that the end grain will soak up more pigment than the front/back so i thought if i 'B-S-B' on it and then dyed it it may look ok as the bleed on the endgrain won't be so pronounced as oppossed to just dying it without the black - thoughts and experiences anyone ? Jem
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