thedoctor
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Everything posted by thedoctor
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No problem. Take a stereo (TRS) jack and bend the ring finger so it touches the top of the tip finger without a plug in the jack. Make sure the insertion of a plug lets the two fingers seperate just a bit but the tip finger still has good contact with the tip of the plug. You can buy them like this but probly hard to find. Take the pickup wire off the ring connection of the other jack and attach it to the tip connection of your modified jack. Run a jumper from ring connection to ring connection. Presto! Rickenbacher split-pickup jack!
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I would have to say, yes it does!! Fabulous-sounding! Sorry about the misquote on the AC-112 issue. I thought you were saying SS amps couldn't benefit from tube preamps. My bad .
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Are the scale lengths different? Shorter scale means less string tension. It don't take a whole lotta scale length difference to change string tension. Physics. THINK, MAN!!!
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I hate to hijack this post but I will for just a minute. Lovecraft, does Genz use switchable full/half wave to allow you to retube without a full rebias or are all Genz "detuned" to run both tubes? None of my friends that own one will let me take one apart (until it breaks). They sure make some awsome-sounding stuff.
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David, noone(except maybe Lovecraft) can make a Varitone circuit that will work exactly the same on every application due to pickup variations and such so to get the range of tonal variations YOU want, clip in a bunch of different caps (this'll break the bank) and see what you like. You get to choose, what 5 or 6? then hardwire them boogs in der.
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Yup, Silvertone, you need a preamp or a better A/D converter. Mud usually comes from the lower sampling rates.
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5-string Bass String Spacing...at The Nut.
thedoctor replied to erikbojerik's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
I assume you are laying something out in CAD cause you wanted caliper readings. Here are my readings on a 1.75" wide 5-string nut: From the left; .15 .513 .88 1.24 1.6 and of course 1.75 Hope it helps. Looks like center-to-center spacing to me. -
5-string Bass String Spacing...at The Nut.
thedoctor replied to erikbojerik's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
It would be most helpful to know the width of your neck at the nut. I have nut widths from 1 7/8" to 3". -
AND those KT88s were running at 70% higher voltage because of full-wave rectification. Think Marshall made it an upgrade for a while.
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No, Devon, he wants them at the BRIDGE. That is just an excercise in geometry. If you drill the LED holes as deep as you dare, figure the angle required to hit those holes from the cavity with a long bit. You can make a decent wood bit out of 5/32" welding rod flattened with a hammer and sharpened on a grinder. Go slow cause it will want to wobble. Back out of the hole often to clear the sawdust. Have a lot of time set aside for fishing the wires through cause it is a boog!
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For what you say it is, I'd pass. Not that it is a bad axe or anything that just isn't any bargain. But if you are doing a friend a favor, whatever. Just remember: No good deed goes unpunished.
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You got to VERY careful with ESPs cause the quality varies a whole bunch. Get someone who knows guitars to play THE one you are to buy and give you an opinion of the action, etc. DO NOT mail order this guitar because you will have to return three to get a good one. When they good, they great. When they bad, they suck.
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I'll bet his work looks just like his toolbox. Neat and perfect. Don't you hate when that happens? Bet he doesn't work on very many road-axes!! Probly make him puke!! Come to think of it, they make me puke!
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Setting Up Hollowbody Guitars?
thedoctor replied to Splydrk's topic in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
As Devon said, if your hardware is the same, no problem except you need to see where your hardware is adjusted to before you start. If you have a 2-post hardtail, you need to see how much adjustment is left before you "level the playing field". If you have a string-through, you need to see what adjustment is left in your saddles. If you have a trem unit, you need to see how flat the pivot plate is and how your setup is going to effect spring tension. By the way, I am known to be VERY parinoid when it comes to setups. I hate getting into messy repairs when all I set out to do was a setup. What is that old anectdote about alligators and swamps? -
I have a Hohner 12-string that would be perfect if it had about 1/8" of the bridge bow taken out. Can't lower or shave the bridge and I don't really like the looks of the BridgeDoctor setup. If it were worse, I would probably just leave it but it is REAL close to perfect. How to remove the old-age bow from the top is my issue. Come to think of it, not just with this guitar!
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No. You need to realize that you only have 60 watts to work with and you only have that available with a 4 ohm load. If your load is higher than 4 ohm, you have less output to work with. Get 2 8 ohm cabs of at least 40 watt capacity or 1 4 ohm cab of at least 75 watt capacity. All you got is 60 watts. @ 4 ohms. Less at higher ohms.
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God, I just HATE organized people!!! His web page makes me sick it is so cool! His toolbox is the outward warning sign of a sick, deviant, possibly criminal mind!! Bet he does really crappy work too!
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I meant in parallel. Don't know about the rest of the posts. Got kinda confusing for a while there.
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I need to make a bridge pickup that has staggered pole pieces. Kind of a "W" with the two center poles about halfway between the top and bottom points. It is strictly a cosmetic thing to match the top overlay and might be more than I can handle. If I wound 6 coils and capped the bottom with a matching poleplate, that should work? I guess I would go for about 1200 ohms per pole and series them. And, no, I ain't gonna try to tackle a humbucker on this! If it ain't worth it, please let me know. I admit defeat well.
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I bought an MAudio MobilePre and couldn't be happier! It has high-imp. inputs, a clean preamp and two stereo or two-channel outputs. It is USB-powered and is a slice of heaven for dragging around your own accompanyment on a laptop. Can't say enough good about it. About $130.00 US.
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1) b 2)5, 5, 3, 2 3) b 4) little to none 5) b 6) I like the personal relations and free run of the place. I dislike their inability to handle "special orders" and it's hard to leave. 7) Snotty, aloof salespersons 8) Shop, if they know their stuff. I like to support local business and problems/ returns are less hassle.
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I don't know how the cold irons of late work. I used to use a cordless Wahl that heated in seconds but was hot for a while after. Good little iron. Batteries take a crap after about two years. The other instant heat iron I have is a carbon-finger resistance unit that will tear heck out of any semidelicate component, pickups, diodes, pots, etc. We use it just to make LARGE connections in a hurry, like #10 wires to the back of a fuseholder. It puts out about 120 amps AC @.75 volts and will kill any small wattage thing in its way. Cools instantly, though. Well, IT never gets hot: the part clamped between the fingers does.
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There you go again! Who says I haven't been "snatched up by a man"? Like the Texans say, it don't take all kinds to make the world, we just gots all kinds. Keep the mind open to ALL possibilities.
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"why yes mrs. doctor". You did it again, westheman! You ASSUMED I was married! Chauvinist PIG!!!! SHE said she didn't know the first thing about guitars and that should have set me off. No GUY would ever say that. WOMEN!! Always screwing with you! Thank GOD.
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Hey! You can get the GM-212 for the same price at Samash and I would have done it if the price was that low. Don't know if it has the tube preamp but Lovecraft says tube preamps are wasted on SS amps, anyhow. DO NOT argue with Lovecraft! You will lose! He the MAN!