Marzocchi705

Its actualy just the light and my camera lens (im using my cell to take pics) Its even i assure you. There is not going to be a TOM set up on this guitar but rather a strat type hardtail bridge with the saddles as high as they can go, im doing it liek that because A. i like my strings high off the body, B i already have the bridge and my calculations are for that, C. It will realy realy realy annoy my mate who hates strings being high. The nech is raised above the body by an extra 3mm or so, i will have the correct action.

I kinda forgot about this thread. Glad you brought it up again. Lots of progress to report. And i even have some pictures for you. Neck is sanded smooth and im realy liking my sculpted heel, i can see why so many builders use them now (and i used to think of myself as a LP purist, big ugly heel and all) I radiusd the FB to 16" and have began to fret it, altho i ran out of fretwire so i have to order more. Pics (click to enlarge) Body wise i have carved the top and preped it for finish as far as i can at this point. To carve it i used a 40grt sanding wheel in my angle grinder, it took next to no effort with quite good results. I was very pleased with how this turned out. Heres pics of the body. (again, click to enlarge) The hardware i got from another member of these forums.

Ebay is your friend, my mate got his for 20buk.

I say break out the old iron and finish the job. Is it possible that the 40 watt is just too hot? Is that even possible?

Being May the 7th, forgive me for being slow. But yeh, it does sound like an April Fools joke.

I want to know how it work? How can a glove possibly make you play better and faster? How can it give you a better sense of melody? Seems like a load of voodoo to me.

Jem/RG, JS, Les Paul, Tele, Strat, Prs Double cutaway, Anything Myka, Leviiathan. And theres way to many more to list them. I like ALOT of differant guitar shapes for differant reasons, some i just find cool others have more meaning, LP's and Strats because thats what i learnt to play on (an actual fender too), somedays i'll look at a guitar and find it boring and others i'll wake up just having to go and play that same guitar. So even with in the same person you can get 12 differant ideas on whats the 'best' shape/design BUT, we can define best to a certain extent, with catagorys ie. best ergonomics ect. Even then its all personal opinion, but youl find you will get a more uniform answer.

PROGRESS!! Neck is set in place and carved (volute still needs work) the heel joint is rough carved out and its looking good. Heres some pics

Yup, you are right there, i dont know how angled you would need to put it, i can imagin it might be a bit severe, but it could look very cool.

Smaller spacing at nut and bridge (youl have to make both of these) and wind a PU to suit it. Alot of work but that would fit your brief. Thats just one possible option.

If i had the cash i so defenatly would, The other guitarist in my band has one and its freakin unreal, sooooo soo good. Good luck with the sale!

My marshal has a simelar dial, Reverb/delay/chorus/flange then a seperalt switch for the level the effect is mixed with your sound. I always just took it for granted, never thought how it worked.

I voted for the guitar i would want to own, and that was that bloody gorge SG! I love the maple and the colour (i have a thing for red guitars...) I liked the pointy bass too because it has lighty up bittys and im a simple person who would be greatly amused by that.

Just a little teaser pic till i can get more. Neck is in position but not glued on, fretboard is glued on decided to go the no inlay route as i couldnt get purple LED's localy. Next step, rout control cavity. I havnt quite decided on my set up yet, im thinking 2vol, 2tone, 3-way toggle and a 2way toggle for the coil tap. I want to have it so that pickups can be split from the same switch (ie when its down both pickups are in humbucker mode and when its up both pickups are in single mode, if that makes sense). After that i will rout my PU cavitys and drill the wire rout. More pics in about 2days. maby less, depends on my workload for the next week.

I never thought of that before. The next time im ever in need of a 16" tom i'll remember that. I have a bridge anyway so it doesnt mater much.

I wasnt going to make it a 7 either, but then i got a great deal on the hard ware (all of it cost me a mere £60) so i thought what the hay, lets give it a go. The TOM idea, i would love to, but i want a 16" radius, all the TOM's i know of are 12". It will be a carved top, but the area around the bridge and pickups will be flat. Im cutting the pocket using Myka's neck pocket jig, it will be bang on perfect if all goes well. When on thing doesnt work out, just call it the design prosses and everythings cool again. hehe. Its just one of thoes things.

OK, Time to get this going again. Updates so far. HARDWARE. I got all or my hardware in! 2 Ibanez 7string P'ups (they have a made in japan stamp on the base plate) Chrome 7string hard tail, strat style, string-thru body Chrome Locking nut Sealed chrome tuners (unbranded but feel solid) Wood Body is cut and sanded to final dimensions, neck profile is cut, head stock still needs cut to final thickness and the shape cut out, fretboard needs the LED's installed. The padauk top i was origionaly going to do has had to be scraped, i just cant get any for a good price. Now its just going to be trans-purple mahogany. Things left to do, quite alot, i need to rout my neck joint in the body, it is going to extend all the way through the neck pickup cavity, nice and strong. Rout pickup cavitys. Glue fretboard to neck. Loacate bridge's exact possition and drill string through holes. Rout control cavity and drill control locations. Carve majority of neck. Glue on neck and carve the neck joint smooth. I aim to have that done in the next 4-6 weeks. Im going mad here, i cant do anything till i get back to school (thats where my tools are) and i cant go back to school because i have an infection in my ears, a realy bad infection too. I want to see this thing through and even if it takes another year it will be done. Eventualy...

How big is this scroll saw? I know Drac uses a scroll saw (trumpets blare DELTA!!) But when i tryed to use one it didnt go quite to plan, alot of blade snapage. But it can be done. How thick is your body blank? One more peice of advise, go slow, dont try and rush it. My first project is nearly 2 years old, and its not finished yet, i have a second project going aswell, thats taken me about 7 months to get the body ready for routing cavitys neck pockets. And by the sound of things i have access to alot more tools than you. Im not much older than you either. PRACTICE ON SCRAP!! MEASURE 1000000000000times CUT ONCE!! <--- live by thoes rules and youl do great.

No place where you could rent a tool or borrow one for a few hours? Have you asked local schools or colleges?

Umm, you mean cutting the outline or routing the cavitys ect? If its cavitys, drill out the majority then clean up the cavity with a chisel.

What store is it (ie town name)? is it a large store or just a normal sized one? the store i work in is fairly small, i just got a few packets of 2000 sent on the stock truck. Ask one of the guys in the parts dept, they should be able to help you out if you end up needing the 2000

Yup. Halfords carry 2000grt. I know i work at a halfords store. Its not the best quality but you can do far far worse.

I would move to perth to have an opertunity like that! Good luck finding someone !

I like it alot, SG's w/P90's deffently do somthing more for me than one with humbuckers. Nice work with the graphics, very very clean for a first refinish.

I use elixer 10-46 for metal. I somtimes go down to droped b altho they get a little loose they still have plenty of grunt. I dont know how many people are like me but i cant stant ernie ball strings what so ever, they seem differant to everything else ive played on.