Narcissism

Because of this thread, i'm starting to notice how corvus-like my bass is...

I've always wanted to see what a double rhoads would look like. The body i'm making for my RG250DX is going to be a double Rhoads, and now that i've seen one, I think I think I'll be pretty happy with it. Thanks! And keep going! These projects look like fun to watch!

The jigs that people come up with on this forum are amazing! How many ways can you make the same thing? I'd have to say that this looks like it'll become my favorite way to radius a fingerboard!

I like the first two a lot! The 3rd one bugs me a little bit with that hump in the middle of the top. It doesn't seem to flow as much as the rest of it. Its kind of a blemish in my eyes. The 4th one makes me want to shout out "SPOOOOOOON!" *referencing "The Tick"* [edit] Now that I look at the 1st one again, I'm thinking it would look a little better with some kind of work on the bass horn. I'm not sure what kind of work, but it could be better.

I've been using a rattle can for the back side of the guitar. Its black laquer, so its going to be pretty hard when its done anyway. Its also rustolium. For the front i'm using a brush with Minwax poly. The only time i've had bad results was on the first coat. It was cloudy and had a few bubbles. the reason why is it was 30F out. Lately, its been jumping up to 40 and 50F, and my finish has come out a lot clearer and more glass like. So in conclusion, I'm pretty happy with a brush for now, but I'd like to graduate to a spray system so i can achieve a more even finish with less runs.

Wow, this is getting more "cease and desist" orders than my MDF V Honestly, that's a pretty ugly design. But I've seen uglier. Has anyone seen the spam guitar? Or that guitar that people were photoshopping with Joe Satriani playing it, where it was being sold on E-Bay, and the person claimed to work on the scroll on the upper horn for months, and to have placed the pickup at the exact octave spot(something like that) and it was being nicknamed "The Poop guitar" on several forums besides this one, and someone bidded 100,000 on it? I think it was pulled. But if no one remembers it, forget everything I just said

It reminds me of melted icecream with hot fudge. Your guitar makes people fat. Seriously though, that's pretty cool!

when you're choosing wood for your neck, make sure that the grain is straight, or mostly straight. curved grains will most likely result in a warped neck. If you're good with laminates, then you can prevent this with even a pretty gnarly looking grain.

I used titebond II with no problems. My bass has been glued together since July of 08, and its gone through pleanty of temperature change and wood warping conditions. There's been absolutely zero prpoblems. My glue line is still flawless.

Wow, this thread was resurrected from 2004...

That's actually pretty cool! I've been watching this thread for a laugh actually, but now that i'm seeing the materials you're using, i'm pretty interested. Very cool! Its almost like a really fancy bullseye

I've shared a shop with a few friends, and one thing that bugged me the most about it was shop manners; clean up after yourself, put things away or back where you found them, etc. Basically, I like to come to a shop that looks like it wasn't used an hour ago. That's just me though. What spoke mentioned is also important. Theft was a huge problem in my shop. I used to have a nice set of screwdrivers, allen wrenches and squares. I have no idea where they are, or who took them now though. That'll happen in almost any manufacturing environment though.

Hey Dylanwad! 1: The licensed floyd normally has a system where you just tighten the trem arm in, and however much you tighten it is how much it'll swing. There should also be a screw on the other side of the trem arm that you can tighten with an allen wrench. You want to make sure that one is all the way tight. Don't over tighten it though, because licenced floyds (probably Original Floyds too fwiw these days) will strip, and then you'll have fun buying new parts. 2. Normally fender and squire will make their lower end guitars out of poplar, aldar or something like that. I'm willing to guess it is made out of poplar due to its light weight and how well it accepts finishes. 3. Any finish that you put on the fretboard will probably wear down eventually. I'm not sure if anyone on the forum has had success with finishing the fingerboard though... I know maple boards are finished, but I don't know what with. Hopefully someone else knows more. The search function on the forum should help you answer any of these questions, for future reference.

I do understand the difference between Stain and Dye/tint. That's why I chose dye instead of stain for my bass. Stain would not have given me any type of burst, as you cannot fade a stain. You can sand it and maybe get some fade, but it wouldn't be nearly as awesome as with dye. Anywho, my question has been answered. Basically, the answer is more obvious now that I've reread the article and the answers to this post. I know stains are uniform, so it only makes sense that sanding with a stain as your compound for wet sanding will produce the same results, as long as you're sanding with the same stain as the original one applied. If i use dye as my compound, it'll just come out as a dark spot, or a lighter spot, and I'd have to resand in order to get the proper evenness in color.

I like this one a lot more than the other projects I've seen from you. Don't get me wrong, your other projects are awesome; but you definitely have a rounded over theme that this project breaks. I think this looks pretty sweet! [edit] Sorry if this post came out as offensive. I'm a pointy guitar kinda person

Yeah, it was an article about "stain" specifically. Not dyes or colored shellac or anything like that, just stain. So from the two answers given, I can safely say that using this technique with anything besides stain would change the color of the wood. Is that right?

I was reading about it in a magazine today. When you notice an imperfection in your stain, what you do is you wet sand the imperfection using the stain as your sanding liquid. This is supposed to be used on cabinets and stuff with uniform stained applications, but I figured it could apply to a guitar somewhere. Would it work if you were using colored poly? Shellac? Lacquer?

Ormsby said in another post that he has a personal goal of 20 guitars a year. This year he may have gone over that. My bass has taken me 8 months. I didn't build the neck though.

Wow, that's a lot of stuff, even for the virtuoso guitarist. If I were good enough, I don't know what I'd do with it! There's so many things going on that could fuel A.D.D. for hours. If that guitar were around any of my friends, it would never be put away. Extra batteries would be a must lol.

I use Minwax fast dry in High Gloss. I was unaware that there were two part polys!

o.O woah...

Nice! The headstock looks a little off to me... but i'm no ric expert! i cant' wait to see it finished

Very straight and to the point. I can think of some intonation problems though.

I've had my test piece with poly on it, and after two days, it was still dentable. It didn't finally harden (couldn't dig my fingernail into it) till today. I put 3 coats on it: 1 coat, then 1 more coat after 2 hours, and one more coat after 24 hours. I started it on monday and applied the 3rd coat on tuesday. [edit] i also used a brush, if that matters at all.

I scalloped my rg250DX all the way to the 12th fret with just a little way before the fingerboard met the maple. As you can see, the inlays are perfectly in tact. So I think this concludes that Ibanez RGs have pretty thick inlays. However, on my GRX20 (the test guitar) when I did the same job, I found the bottom of the dot inlays about half way through the fretboard. I personally don't go past the side post position markers when I do this job for anyone else, just as a rule of thumb.