Supernova9

Perhaps he thought a forum of people who build and repair guitars would be a decent source of opinion on photos of damage to a guitar. This is more on-topic than all of the off-topic forum, and if that exists, why shouldn't questions like this be asked?

Yes, StewMac aren't the cheapest for everything. But a straight edge is different from a steel rule. A straight is precision ground to 0.0015" per foot accuracy, a steel rule will be nowhere near that.

Martin Koch (the guy who's site that is) uses power tools like anyone else. His ebook contains a nice router jig for scarf-cutting. As for your comments about routers, I disagree. I find them perfectly useable, far too many people on here seem to think routers have a mind of their own, but I think maybe that's because they're being used incorrectly (bad feed rate, too aggressive a cut etc). I'll agree with the hand tools being more rewarding - I feel like I've done 'proper' work if I've used a handplane to level something.

Your first post was provocative and confrontational. Now you're surprised people didn't just say "Yes new poster who's been here for less than a month, you have provided us with wisdom our collective 4000+ membership did not have until you just posted this thread! Thank you for that contribution! "????? I mean, c'mon. Get a grip. As for the topic of the thread, there are free plans available, and you don't have to donate anywhere. Check the MIMF, there is a library there (if you register - which is free) which contains a large number of plans for various instruments, original and existing. Also, guitarbuild.com has CAD diagrams for a number of instruments too. Between those sites off the top of my head that gives you around 100 different drawings to go from. What more do you need? Oh, and next time, lurk a while on a forum before you post threads like these.

Well, just don't go putting a Gibson logo on the headstock. That'll get you flamed beyond belief on here, and it's a pretty stupid thing to do. Step 1: Take the strings off. Step 2: Take the tuners off (there'll be a mounting screw on the back of the headstock, that needs to come out, and then there'll be the bushing on the front that needs to come off too) Step 3: Lightly sand the headstock overlay until the indent is gone. Step 4: Add your new decal (they should have come with instructions Step 5: Spray or brush on a new finish on the headstock (there are plenty of threads on these forums covering finishes, search for them). Then put it back together again.

Dubious, but hey. Destring, take the tuners off, sand flush, put on decal, refinish.

Search these forums for a 'router thicknessing jig' It'll be exactly the solution you need. Or click here if you don't wanna search

Why wait??? Chainsaw rampage.....................

I'd choose from Routerbits.com: #2006 - 1/2" shank, 1/4" roundover bit (for body edge) K41 - 1/4" Shank, 1/2" cutting length template guided cutter (for cavities/pickups) #3023 - 1/2" Shank, 2" cutting length template guided cutter (for outside of the body) and forth, from StewMac: Binding Router Bit set, for some fancy binding. I'd buy tools like a fret file, nut slotting saw, nut files and radiusing blocks. You have every conventional power tool I think you'd need, and then some.

ass = A*S*S ginger = g*i*n*g*e*r. question solved

If someone can provide a well reasoned philosophy, I think this site is more than happy to listen. Some of your previous philosophies (particularly around grain orientation in necks) have been somewhat lacking in explanation, and just contradictory/unclear.

To satisfy my own curiousity, is it possible to veneer onto compound curves like a carved top?

If you're looking for a resaw bandsaw, you want at least a 14" with a riser kit, that's pretty much the smallest that will still have the capability to resaw maple tops etc.. If I remember correctly you're in the UK? Selection isn't anywhere near as good as in the US, but places like Axminster and others carry a fair line. Might want to ask Jammy, I seem to remember him just setting up a shop, I think he's got a Record Bandsaw, but not 100% on that.

Do you mean recommending in terms of people looking to order custom guitars?

Why not just drop a few bucks and get a new neck blank, and do a standard scarf joint? It won't cost you much, and if you carry on with this one, you'll just end up more and more frustrated as the project goes on, and you'll always notice it.

I've just read the entirety of that thread you posted, there is incredibly little negativity in there. You even got an "in the nicest way I can" from Drak, which is far less blunt than he's known for. What negativity on there made you stop building? From that thread you never mentioned not doing the build, never raised an issue of negativity in the thread, you just stopped posting updates. You're not asking for any suggestions other than body shape, so it's hardly an 'interactive' build. That said, I understand what some of you guys are saying about letting people voice their opinion and make suggestions on stuff, and I'm all for it, but there are some things where it is DANGEROUS for poor information to be propagated. For example, a certain tutorial used to exist that was incredibly unsafe, and could have resulted in people being seriously injured should they follow it. That's where the murky waters come in. It's all a balance, between avoiding that kind of stuff and encouraging people to discuss/share opinion. I'd hate to have newbies unable to post at all because they've cut off all their fingers following poor advice.

Wes, Setch was made a mod a while back. I think he still holds moderator access privileges. I think you missed that during your absence. Good to have you back by the way, the board can alwayas do with more voices of experience (and in the case of this thread, sanity).

How many guitars have you built? Show us some of your previous work. Are you working on this full-time or do you have another job? I don't mean to be too negative, but if you don't know where to start on improvements to that spec (i.e. adjustable truss rod, no need for roller nut and bridge if no trem, bridge string spacing is incredibly narrow, and nut is rather wide), then you shouldn't be taking the build on, let alone charging for it. It's different if it's a friend, but not if it's just an acquaintance as you say.

Just tell everyone that you're adding a patented LamBoard for extra strength and stability, ensuring that your guitars retain the optimum playing surface far longer than any competitors puny offerings. I think it's time for me to move into marketing.....

Maybe next time, just draw the taper on the board how it's going to be on the next, and adjust that so that the piece of grain is in the right place. Then slot the board, then radius it, then attach it to the neck. You've just made life way more difficult for yourself than it needs to be, and you could probably have avoided it by searching these forums. If I were you, I'd steam off the board (there are tutorials for that on the main site), do the slotting on a flat surface (get the stewmac fret slotting jig), then radius and glue back on. You've also pretty much destroyed any resale value that 59 strat neck had, unless you get a pro to repair the job. Don't take this too personally, just sounds like you didn't really plan it too well. Show pics though, I'm sure others will chime in.

I remember that thread.....how many of the 12 finally made it through? I seem to remember at least 3/4 feeding the WOD? Love that steerhead though, and that first photo is awesome - great subject matter, but actually a really good clean photo too. Looks like you're more than just a great luthier

Yes, because Fender's had an awful problem with them all the time they've been using them.....

Take it up with StewMac, their customer service is really good. They'll probably replace the board with tear-out. If you showed photos it might help us advise you better.

You can also get plans for a proper router radiusing set-up from http://www.cthluthiery.com/ I got them myself a little while back, and they seem great, I'm in the process of building one.

I have 2 questions: 1. How many guitars have you made? 2. What are you looking for in a guitar that makes you think it'd need to be 4" thick, hollow or not? If the answer to the first question is zero, the advice round here always used to be start simple, then when you can do that, move up in difficulty. Learn to make a wheel before you reinvent it. If you can't provide a decent answer to point 2, look at the answer for point 1.