Jump to content

G_urr_A

Established Member
  • Posts

    285
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by G_urr_A

  1. hehe, cereal, i'm offering any of my guitars for 50,000SEK (which is about $6250), and that includes delivery to any northern america, australia or europe address. so i think i've got a bit lower prices. but that might be b/c quality. anyone want one?
  2. Seems like a nice program. However, I'm not quite sure if I like the idea of trusting a printer to be that accurate, but I guess I can allways (one or two "l"s in al(l)ways?) check against some of my other guitars. Thanks a lot for the help guys!
  3. Uhm, I just thought about a problem with building a neck myself. Accuracy. I have (as far as I know) no means of measuring the distance from the nut to a certain fret with the accuracy needed. Considering that a tenth of a millimeter is a horribly big fault, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to try and make a neck. How would you measure these distances with the needed accuracy?
  4. If it's built to stand 230v you can probably run it on 240v, but I'm not at all sure if the text under the fuse means that it's built to take 230v. If you're going to do anything to the transformer, I'd say it's replacinging it. Modifying it would be a hell of a lot of work. Unwinding/winding *lots* of wire and not being sure if it really is correct. I'd take it to a tech, but I have nearly no experience of this type of electronics.
  5. All I can say is check the wiring. That thing shouldn't buzz at all. If it's not the wiring, I think you could send it back to the factory. If I'm not wrong, EMGs are covered by a 2 year warranty, but I'm not sure.
  6. I'm willing to try too. I've got a cheap Strat-copy, which I might as well use for something, so why not. I live in Sweden though... If you're still interested send me a mail g_hjelmare@hotmail.com.
  7. The EMGs are really great, it's a ZW set (81 and 85), I placed the 85 in the neck postion and the 81 in the bridge position, and I like it. They are much clearer than the previous pickups. The 85 gives me what I need for full, powerful distortion in the lower ranges, and the 81, with it's nice "biting" attack is great for lead playing. The 81 sounds a bit thin when going down below 3rd fret on the 5th string (Cb, as I'm tuned to Eb), but that really doesn't matter. Both sound great clean. Much more "alive" than the other pickups. Absolutely splendid for the type of music I play (metal, and that type of stuff). May I ask why you ask?
  8. I installed a pair of EMGs yesterday in my Jackson KE3. Now, I'm wondering what the old pickups were. The guitar was probably manufactured ca 1990. The pickups were marked with a pencil on the back, with the text "JH-2 10.8" and "J-50N 10.2" on the bridge and neck pickups respectively. They both have open pole pieces. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
  9. I think I know what I'm going to do now. I'll buy the neck (it comes with nut and tuners), and I'll finnish my body to work with that neck. Then, when I've got the time (yeah right), I'll build a neck from scratch, and use the tuners and nut from the Ibanez neck. And I'll sell the neck with no hardware on it. That'll give me a playable guitar pretty soon, and after a while I'll have a really nice playable guitar.
  10. Why would it not work? The reason I might get a neck I know I won't like is that I've had a really hard time finding necks I like, and I'm pretty low on money. I could of course wait for a good neck to come by, but I need to finnish the body the neck is going to sit on quite soon, and I don't want to restrict my choice of neck by finnishing the body with a certain type of neck pocket.
  11. I'll see what I can come up with without buying anything (shipping from the US to Sweden would cost as much as the HoK tape itself, I guess). Thanks a lot for the help. Oh, and I'd be very interested in a tutorial on the matter, if anyone is willing to take the time.
  12. I might end up getting an Ibanez neck for the body that I'm building. Now, I've played a few Ibanezes at the local music shop, and I've played my friends Ibanez, and the necks feel to thin for my taste. I like necks at least as thick as Jacksons, but preferably up to standard Strat thickness. So, I'm wondering, is it possible to strip the finnish of the back of the neck, glue on a piece of wood, and shape it to my liking, or is it likely that I would run into any problems if I try? Any thoughts or ideas on how make a neck thicker are more than welcome.
  13. Scott, Dave and LGM, could you explain a bit more specifically what it is you are talking about. I understand nothing. (That's probably because I'm stupid.)
  14. I've been wondering for a while how Jackson achieve their Crimson Swirl finnish. Any ideas?
  15. The problem with buying new stuff is that shipping from anywhere to Sweden is really expensive, compared to the parts I might want to get. How hard is birch (I think that's what you call the tree that is white with black "dots" on it)? Oh, btw, what's the difference between locking and non-locking studs?
  16. I recently purchased an original Floyd Rose tremolo on eBay. It came with the screw-in type studs. I've heard that they are risky to use, but I haven't heard anything from people who I think know what they are talking about. Thus I'm asking here. Will they damage the wood? Is it worth the trouble making my own non-screw-in type studs? Thanks in advance
  17. Isn't it possible to reccess a TOM just like a Floyd? And thus avoiding the need for a neck angle, and making it easier to switch to a Floyd later (or the other way around; building for Floyd and then reccessing the TOM)?
  18. Well, flipping your pickups that way might have put the part that the manufacturer thought would be the high end under your lower strings, and that would explain the bassy sound. I do obviously not know if you are sure that they are mounted the correct way around, but if you are not, try flipping them, and see what happens.
  19. Well, I was thinking of making it into something like a flying V or so. But since you guys say it's a bad idea to modify a body, I'll probably make a new one in the same type of wood, and see how close it is, soundwise, to the original body. Then I'll probably sell the one that sounds worse. But it will be a while before I get started, since I'm currently working on another guitar body, and it takes a good while to get it finnished, since I have nearly no time at all to work with it. But I'll make sure I post some pics of any projects I finnish. Thanks for the advice guys!
  20. wes: I was thinking I would, where neccessary, plane it flat, and then glue. The main reasons I want to mdify instead of making a new body are that it will probably be less time consuming, and I don't know what type of wood is used. LGM: I do realize that the sound will be changed, but I didn't think it would be that much of a change... I mean, cutting of half the amount of wood that is there, and then glueing on the same type of wood but in a different shape, would that alter the sound that much?
  21. As long as you make sure that the connections wont accidentaly come loose during a gig or something, I don't see why not.
  22. I've got this Strat-copy that I bought about 6 months ago. It has one hell of a nice sound, but I don't like the Strat design. So I was thinking about modifying the body to another shape. Thus, I have a few questions... 1. I'd need to start with stripping the paint, right? 2. Cutting away wood shouldn't be a problem. How about glueing extra wood on to the guitar, to accomodate parts of the body? 3. How can I find out what type of wood is usedin the body? 4. Anything else?
  23. Could someone explain what this "hidden download section" is and what you have to do to get legit access to it?
  24. Alex, could you post a close up of the black Jackson KE3 shaped (4th from the back I think) guitar in that stand? It looks cool...
×
×
  • Create New...