mledbetter

Do a google search for JET guitars.. He has a tie dye guitar that while not a burst.. combines several colors of stains to look just like a grateful dead t-shirt I just went there.. www.jetguitars.com Click on "one of a kind" it's not a tie die, i was mistaken.. it's stripes. but if you spray alcohol based stain with an airbrush you could get a real controlled burst.. No different than the green to purple bursts and stuff like that.

Does this even exist? Honestly, not to dampen your spirits but unless you are sure you are going to start selling these things and can make $$ or you already have a ton of $$ to throw around this is going to be very poor use of cash IMO. ← There are desktop CNCs.. most of the DIY CNCs are desktop.. I ran across them searching for real CNC info.. hobby craftsmen.. churning out model parts, etc.. styrofoam cutting, balsa.. Key word there being hobby though.. I don't think it would handle guitar sized projects.

This company is a huge supplier of celluloid and traditional pickguard material. But you have to buy A LOT. www.delmarproducts.com

I'm dyin over here Great job on the models.. but yeah LGM is a widely known presence around here. Look above at the pinned thread on trademarking body styles..

is it a 1 piece neck or does it have a glued on fingerboard? If it's the latter you could figure 3/8s back from the bottom of the fingerboard and then add 1/8 or so for safety and use that as a guide. I don't know of any truss rods that are deeper than 3/8. If it's a 1 piece neck, use the adjustment nut on the butt end as a guide.. 3/8 bac from the top of the butt nut.. The top being the fret side.. Don't try to turn it into a Wizard neck or anything like that.. but shaving a little off of it won't hurt anything.

That's cool looking.. Probably about the right size for a bridge billet maybe? Or maybe the cut doesn't work. I have no idea. Beautiful wood though.

I have the tele set from GUitarBuildingTemplates.com It's not a bad way to start but now that i'm into it.. I could have made my own. If you have a program like freehand or something that lets you do a tile print, you could take a scale drawing of your project and print it out full size.. Then spray mount that to MDF and cut out your template. You have to be WAY careful the first time to get the edges smooth.. Use an edge sander and a spindle sander.. but once you have it, you're good to go. The neck.. like setch said.. Just use a straight edge piece of MDF and do the math.. I'm not relying on the purches tele template for aligning the neck anyway.. it hasn't proved a tight enough joint for me. It looks sloppy. PRS has nice full frontal shots of their guitars in decent resolution. You can just take one of those into freehand, trace it exactly, use a known dimension on the guitar to set your scale to and print it out.. You'll be good to go.

That was my whole point all along.. Dino kept saying he "thought this was a place you could share information" yet he shared none.. He showed us pics then proceeded to tell us where we could go purchase the tips on how to do it. The folks here weren't born yesterday Dino..

Sweet.. a fanned. You're talking 8 string guitar right? That will be an interesting project. I've got a buddy taht plays Dingwall basses. I like them a lot. Not sure I could handle it on a guitar but it just depends on your style. That'll be neat.

well i wasn't including the studio line. It's funny I have always liked the studio line but the standard on up I just think are shoddy for the 2000+ retail tag they tout. But they are great looking guitars.. i don't think he could go wrong with them. I like the little Vs.. I'd look funny playing one, but I think they are cool..

Yeah, that guitar is a piece of crap.. You would be better off to find a maple neck strat and do an EVH paint job on it. There are a couple of threads in the inlay forum about doing EVH paint jobs. If you want a guitar like eddies, build it like eddie.. He bought a body, bought a neck, slapped a pickup in it and a trem. The early evh guitars were done on the cheap.. That was the attitude and the personality. If you could paint your skateboard you can paint a guitar as good as eddie

well in fairness.. all the engineer agreet to was that "it's simple to replicate an existing function rather than create a new one" I can agree to that.. but that isn't taking into account that zero frets require a nut. it's not a tradeoff.. so the engineer answered a question correctly, but didn't have the full information to work from. But it's an engineers job to focus on the details.. so missing the forest for the trees is kind of part of the job description

It's also much too easy to accuse anyone who disagrees with one's personal point of view of being close-minded. Truth is often counter-intuitive. ← dammit.. i said i wouldn't post again.. in a production environment the CNC cuts the nut slot and it faster for an untrained worker to squirt some glue and slap a nut in there than to seat another fret.. That's just what seems logical to me. Every zero fret instrument i have seen has a nut still.. you have to have a string guide. so how is that saving a step? You add a 23rd fret and then STILL have to add a cheap plastic nut behind the zero fret. I think it's safe to bet that the 80-90% of the guitars on the market.. the imports, the beginner models, etc.. would all have zero frets if it truly was cheaper. What does a beginner care if his 200 dollar guitar has a zero fret or not.. It's not just a matter of market preference. Cost savings drive production evolution more than anything.

One thing someone in here mentioned.. You could get like 4 sheets of sandpaper and spray mount them (grit side up ) to a known flat board.. like MDF or something.. Then turn your guitar upside down and sand away.. Will ensure that it's true which is crucial to do your lam top. One thing to do might be to wait till you've chambered it. Much less material to remove that way. Good luck

I've heard this several times here and I don't understand it.. Zero frets are not cheaper to produce.. In fact i've alway associated them wither with older names.. vintage instruments.. or high end more specialized names liek Vigier.. I've never thought of them as a production shortcut. A preslotted OEM nut is cheaper anyday than seating another fret. We may get this thread to 10 pages yet!! ok.. i promose not to post anything else here. I'll just go duck for cover incase this thing explodes again.. I jsut thought an adjustable nut would be neat and apparently some dude in the 60s thought so as well.

Well... As I said before. I don't use a compensated nut and i'm ok with how my guitar sounds. I can however detect some intonation problems if I listen verry carefully. Play a standard A chord. Those are among the worse. You should hear some sharpness on your 3rd string. You'll hear some sharpness in there. Even if your guitar is PERFECTLY in tune and perfectly intonated.. It's just the nature of the fretted instrument. It really bothers some people, some people don't notice it, some people don't care. The problem is there though if you look for it. Your frets don't move, so compensating on the saddle end only solves half the problem. You get to a point where you can't correct anymore and that's when you turn to the compensated nut. Wow.. that's interesting. What a shame. I bet it was the name.. If it was called BigNuts it might have sold more

Why hasn't someone designed a nut with 6 individual mini saddles.. Maybe a little titanium number with bone inserts for the strings to ride on. Making one to fit a fender would be a challenge but a gibson style nut is huge.. that could easily be machined. How cool would that be. Leaving the bone inserts allows the luthier to still be in control of slotting and height adjustment.. Crazy?? You zero fret folks dont' have to answer

I was wondering the same thing. It's gotta be touching a saddle somewhere.. unless it's picking up body vibrations but that would sound horrible. Only piezo floyd I know of currently is a proprietary ibanez model that you can't buy without the attached guitar Should be something coming soon though.

Just find a local woodshop that has a planer. Might charge youa few bucks to zip the glue-up through the planer a couple of times just to level it. You could level it by hand with a variety of tools but it would be worth getting it planed in my opinion.

Try going here and you should be able to pull up a diagram to go by. Just check all your connections. It doesn't sound like you were dealing with a ground problem.. more like a short. Now that you get no sound at all it definitely sounds like a short to me.

No, precautionary is knowing WHO made your instrument. Look at Gibsons. You can't touch a new paul for less than 2Gs and in my opinion, for the money, they are junk. When buying a custom you are paying for the priveledge of having a guitar built by one person who will attend to your guitar from the raw lumber stage all the way through the final setup. With a manufacturer, probably 100 people have touched your guitar and as many machines. CNCs, robo buffers, assembly line fret installations and dressing, caked on plastic finish.. I understand where you are coming from but if you can find a store that sells some custom instruments go check them out. I'm willing to bet you'll do a complete 180. At this point in my life, I will bever buy a big name guitar again.. at least from the big 2 You'll find too a lot of builders are willing to throw limited lifetime warrantees in there. You won't get that kind of guarantee OR service from one of the biggies. The KxK guitars are totally not my style.. but I can tell from looking at them that they are well made. Nice details, and some of those in-stock models.. 1199 for a custom V with a road case.. that's a steal if you ask me. Go drop 1199 with a big company and you're likely to get one of their "import" models.

Depends on the glue but in most cases 24-48 hrs is sufficient.

Cool. Check out Gigliotti Guitars They do something similar to that. Except they do strat or tele shapes.. since they are flat it's easier to inset a top like that. You won't find PRS or Paul shapes at All-Parts either.. only fender.

Well Saga uses distributors.. I dont' think Grizzly does. You just buy it from Grizzly. For the money I would get a saga kit.. it would compare to Grizzly's cheaper kits. For the heirloom kits, by the time yo pay shipping and such you'd be better ordering a body, neck and everything else from All-Parts UK. I know they have a UK website. And if it's sold through allparts, someone is selling it on ebay for close to wholesale so you might check there. Allparts stuff is very high quality. I've played several guitars built from an all-parts catalog and they are top notch. All-Parts UK

It depends on how much you want to buy. I specced out several suppliers of celluloid tortoise and it's EXPENSIVE.. Can you buy wholesale? Do you have the licenses and such you need for your state? If so call up WD Music Supply.. pickguards are his specialty. Allparts sells blank sheets as well. You just have to keep in mind that the prices online are retail. Get an account with them and they will hook you up with dealer pricing (which in most cases is 50% of retail) Keep in mind though, only buy wholesale if you plan to sell it. To get wholesale pricing you have to have a reseller license which is different in each state, but you have to report to the state once a quarter what you sold and in some cases what you purchased and pay tax on it. If they find out you just got it to buy your own stuff tax free and half price they won't be happy