Bizzar_Guitars

I found this page really useful when I did my LEDs: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz Hope that helps. Ciao, Garth

After cutting a slot in the end of the rod like this: I widen the slot and peen it with a hammer to prevent the nut from travelling. Then I screw the other anchor piece on and tighten the two anchor pieces against each other. Because the second anchor is rectangular, and it has the fretboard glued on top of it, this prevents the anchor from moving when tension is applied. Then I slide the rod into the sleeve. The anchor at the headstock end is placed in the slot and the truss rod is slid through it into the adjustment cavity, so that the body end anchors can be placed in their holes. The headstock anchor doesn't have threads on it, so the rod slides right through. The adjustment nut presses against this anchor when tightened. In this next picture I haven't cut the truss rod to length yet. Once the truss rod is through both anchors, I mark the length and cut it. So (in my case), the distance between the anchors depends on the scale length, length of the truss rod channel and how far into the body the truss rod extends. With the truss rod in and cut to proper length, I glue the fillet over the truss rod, pushing the truss rod against the bottom of the curved channel. The fillet is later sanded flush, and then the fretboard is attached. Ciao, Garth

These aren't real tutorials, but here's a couple of looks at how I do mine: http://ca.geocities.com/bizzarguitars@roge..._truss_rod.html http://ca.geocities.com/bizzarguitars@roge..._truss_rod.html Hope that helps. Ciao, Garth

Like WezV, I route a channel in the side of the neck blank too. Ciao, Garth

Here's a forum dedicated to pickup winding: Pickup Makers - Music Electronics Forum Some really great info there. Ciao, Garth

Here's a couple of suggestions: Get a long drill bit and drill bit and drill two separate channels. One from each pickup cavity into the control cavity; Drill a "V" shaped channel from one cavity to the next. Ciao, Garth

I use a couple of pairs of side cutters, that have been ground flush on the back. Ciao, Garth

I have used this in the past: Nut string spacing calculator Ciao, Garth

Here's a link to a site I found that'll help you figure out you LED issues: LED Wizard Hope that helps. Ciao, Garth

Try this: buildyourguitar.com You can make whatever radius you want. just do the calculations. Ciao, Garth

I used two pairs of side cutters which have been ground flush (I used these to trim the frets flush to the fretboard after they've been installed), to grip the tang at either end and manually bend them into a slightly tighter radius than the fretboard. Ciao, Garth

Hey Kenny This is what I use. Nut slot spacing calculator Although it is for 6 strings. It will give you a base line to work from. Ciao, Garth

Hey Rick, Here's some black #4 screws, but they're 5/8" or 1/2": Lee Valley Screws Ciao, Garth

Wow! Spectacular. Thanks for sharing. Ciao, Garth

You don't indicate where in Ontario you are, but KJP Hardwoods has a great selection of figured birch. Ciao, Garth

Hey Turbines, Welcome to the forum. It is located right here, on ProjectGuitar.com: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/burst.htm Ciao, Garth

If you don't have the contour sander, these are available at Lee Valley: Contour sanding grips Ciao, Garth

Just a thought, but what about putting the magnets in the body as opposed to the cover? If you reinforce it with a thin piece of metal like russ suggested, then the thin metal could be what holds the cover to the magnets? Ciao, Garth

Hey albertop, nick work! Here's a fret slot spacing calculator that I use: http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/fret_calculator.php Just fill in the different values and it will calculate the spacing for you. Ciao, Garth

Hey John, I made my first neck through out of a pallet from my local building materials store: Viking The fretboard is a piece of discarded birch hardwood flooring. The laminated necks on the rest of my neck throughs are made from crossers, the 4x4 wood they put between lifts of lumber. This one is made from Mahogany, Maple and Purpleheart: Poseidon laminates If you're picky enough, you can get plenty of good laminates. Some times a crosser will only yeild one good laminate, but what the heck, it is free wood after all. Ciao, Garth

Hey Eko, Melvin Hiscock's "Build your own Electric Guitar". is great. Ciao, Garth

No problem A different Brian. I'm glad there's someone who could make use of it. Ciao, Garth

Hey Grimzors, Here's how I did it on my last one: My way of doing LED's Here's a cool site that allows you to design your LED array: LED series/parallel array wizard Hope that helps. Ciao, Garth

Right on Matt! Congrats. Just think of all the new guitar parts and wood you're going to be able to afford! Woo Hoo! Ciao, Garth

Here ya go: http://www.guitarpartscanada.com/product_i...491d905a1226239 Ciao, Garth