GuitarGuy

BOOYAH!!!!!!! DUH DUH DUH DUH DUH........... ← I think you missed my point. Have you ever sprayed poly or lacquer over balsa? If it gets hit its like squashing a bug, the inside is soft the outside is hard like an egg. Either way its going to get dinged but the oil would not show as much.

My fear with the basswood is that being so soft if you did ding it, its going to crack a big old chunk out of the finish. But the oil will be more forgiving in that respect. Just MHO Edit: Just as I was reading over my post It occoured to me that the stuff im using for grain filler right now would prob provide a nice base for it. Its an amber colored 2 part epoxy used for raido controled airplane fuselages. Its an amber color and fills really nicely. Just a thought for a little durability.

I build guitars as a hobby and just that. I rarely make much money. If I break even im happy. Truthfully i go for the cheaper hardware, If someone is willing to pay for high end stuff on a custom, sure.But they're going to pay for it not me. But just for my own work El cheapo is good enough. You can argue the idea all you want but unless you get into high end the differences are marginal. Wood is fairly easy to come by and i laminate a lot of stuff. In the long term is probably stronger and more stable anyway. As for pickups, buy a cheap pickup and a coil of 42AWG. you can make pretty much any sound under the sun. The book guitar electronics for musicians is really good for explaning the tonal differences in coil winding. I know you're prob thinkin I dont have a winder or money for one. Well if you can research to build a guitar you can use the same skills, and im sure you can figure it out.

Placebo effect... and the fact that its really hard to build two guitars exactly the same. Also the Pickups probably are not wound exactly the same either. Im not saying that there isn't a difference I'm just saying that the difference is marginal. edit: If im not mistaken vintage strat coils are scatterwound so no two are exactly the same.

Now we have 2 humbuckers in series. I can see where you're going with that but in all practicality 2 humbuckers would be easier. And a similar tone i might add. I think theres a reason why these never made mainstream.

Well its dense , so im thinking sustain and trebles by standard school of thought. But I'm in the pure voodoo group when it comes to tonewoods and their sonic capabilites.

Well, If you step back and think about it.(and coolness factor aside) I cant really see the point. A humbucker is two opposite polarity opposite wound coils that cancel out the hum by mixing it with the reverse wave of the hum. Kinda like a sound and anti-sound that negate each other. If you add another coil it ruins the balance. So effectively you have a humbucker and a single coil in series....and you still have the singles hum. The only thing that may make a difference is the position of the coil but its still going to have the single's hum.

I got more of that junk than you can shake a stick at. Id say roughly 100 board foot give or take. Pros- its pretty Cons - Heavy as crap (depends on what crap you're thinkin about but lead comes to mind) - very open grain you will need mucho grain filler. Other than that a very sturdy wood. Altho I would not use it for a neck. I've seen it split or delaminate along the grain.

Thanks as well ....I didnt think anyone noticed.

Someone told me I couldn't do it. lol. So I did. Been at it off and on ever since.

Measure from the nut to the high E in proper intonated positon (that would be the high E saddle approximately 3/4 of the way foreward) If its a 25.5" scale , those two points should be that distance apart. Alternatively you can measure from the nut to the 12th fret, that should be the same distance as it is from the 12th to the bridge.

This may sound silly but if you are getting snagging or the drill bit is pulling the pickguard up. Try dulling the drill a bit like my countersinking info Here This way it grinds or scrapes the hole (just like a scraper leaves a cleaner surface than a plane)

I made a guitar body out of oak and tossed it after I realized how heavy it was. If you chambered it a bit I'd say sure try it. But otherwise I hope you have a good chiropractor

With things that show or need tight tolerances like a pickup hole in a pickguard. You really cant beat a set of files. Power tools just take off too much too fast. Cut the opening to about 1/16 or less from your scribe/pencil lineand then file up to it. Its slower but more accurate. Once you have a template to cut them it makes it a lot faster with a router. But for a "one off" you really need files.

I know exactly where you're coming from...in fact thats how i found your site. I was looking for info on a router-copier. Im buildin' one right now with the help of the old man.

Ah yes i see what you mean. I meant mdf for the body cavity templates. And I use a 1/2 inch bit with a bearing collar at the top. For a shape template like a neck or body I can see where acrylic has the advantage. But for that I use masonite, cheap and fairly durable. Don't get me wrong i wouldn't mind using acrylic but it takes one oops to mess up a template. Edit: by the way if you mess up the edge of a mdf template it fixes up nicely with a little body filler. Id post a pic of mine but im at work , maybe when i get home.

Man are we on the same page or what. That has been my main hurdle too. I have decided to make all my templates out of 1/2" acrylic. Getting the material (especially for a body template) has taken some time and $$$ but I figure once I'm done Ill be able to knock them out as fast as I need to and I won't have to worry about any durability issues. No need rushing things. ← Just a little tip for templates, I use 3/4 inch mdf. The reason being is that the router bit does not have to take as big a bite out at the first. Its easier on the router and you can route faster with smaller bites believe it or not. Once uou get down to the depth of the router bit you can just use the top of the cavity you just cut for the template. Quick and accurate.

Not a bad call. One could make a power board that had those safety outlets that are used in bathrooms and such. I'm no expert in electrical but it may be cheap insurance. (Still theres no replacement for checking the outlets before hand)

Glue Came across this tonight and I can already see a milion uses. Just thought you guys might be interested.

Be sure to score around the bridge with a hobby knife. otherwise when you pull the bridge up it may tear out some wood/finish surrounding it. (been there done that)

I think you might be getting a little humg up on brand names. I had a univox humbucker that measured out at 10K and put a few duncans I've had to shame.

8.3 im assuming is the impedance. Which is a little low for a humbucker. So you get what you pay for. Edit: Sorry I sidestepped your question, The humbucker will be a lower output and tinny sounding. Still it wont be that bad if you are on a budget.

Personally, I'd unwrap the coils and split both of them, then you've got a ton of options. As is you only really got a 3-way, phasing is not going to have that much effect with humbuckers so reversing phase to get a differet option is pointless.

Build one?

I still dont really see the advantage over a scalloped fretboard? While the idea still is cool.