Our Souls inc.

i just try to get the FB as flat as I can. I utilize a radius block to get the initial surface and use a straight edge with sandpaper on it once its blocked to insure the flatness down the length. a seperate straightedge is kept nearby to check progress. I work up to 600 grit and thats the extent of it. I think we need adjustments due to the board being flat under no tension, then adding it into the balancing act of the neck wood, string tension and truss rod. Thats a 3-way tango thats sure to put some odd pressures on your previously perfectly flat surface. I know I always need to adjust some of the frets during the setup and I try to wait for the neck to settle in a bit, 2 or 3 weeks if I can help it.

Actually, this pallet was pine. Clear, knot-free 1x6's. and a fat poplar runner that became the neck. I used cherry for a top and birds eye maple for a fret board. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=42107&view=findpost&p=443820 There's a link to the thread about where the pictures pick up... some are long gone now. Taylor made some Acoustics from some pallets... they fetch around $10,000 if you can get one, but those are Taylors.... mines just mine.

Wow. You make wood removal a beautiful thing! I love that volute you do. absolutely stellar. Thanks for the post on the pups too. great read.

I scored some cheap spalted elm on the bay, ended up with four tops for 42 bucks delivered. So two of my 10 dollar tops are going to be twins - these two: Here are the specs : Bass - 5 string, 34 inch scale ,24 jumbo frets , Guitar - 7 string, 26.5" scale , 24 jumbo frets . Bodies are both Sapele back with the Elm tops. Bass neck is Padouk with an Elm headstock and cocobolo board. Guitar neck is Bloodwood with an Elm headstock and cocobolo board . So far I have the sapele glued up and the bass body topped and shaped. Both necks are scarfed and square, awaiting truss rods and fret boards,shaping, etc. I will take some better pics tomorrow and get it started properly. On a side note, my brothers bass is drying { teak oil } and my big-horned bass is up to 400 grit. Slow winter so far, but I might just get 5 done this year.

Then you,sir,scored in life,as well as the tool department. Thats great.

you lost me at CNC....... and whats an end mill?? lmbo....

Hi Tom. I think it was Washburn who does the offset dots like that. I just did up a bass neck with the exact same dot layout. I like the feel of the 25.5" scale, so when I did up my explorers , I used that scale length with them. The one I made from a shipping pallet, I even put three single coils and a 5 way switch in it because I really wanted the Fender feel on an Explorer. Works like a charm. offset routes along the edge can be accomplished by clamping a board off-set to the edge and using it to guide your router. shims ( construction shims ) can be placed along side the body for curves with a gradual taper. many ways to go about it really...

just as you may be "overthinking" it, I am just as guilty of underthinking it. I don't even measure, I eyeball the distance from string to FB edge. I don't use a consistent string spread at the nut either. Personally,I can have a smaller spacing on the skinny strings than the thick strings due to the way my fingers lie across the neck. Down low, they're pointed at the neck, up high on the thick strings, it's the 'face' of my finger / fingerprint-area thats in play so I need some more room. I space mine accordingly. #2: when I design a neck, I make a quick mock-up using various sized markers for various sized strings and work out my measurements then. I'm probably a bad example since each build is done for individual purposes and therefor done an individual way which may or may not be identicle to the previous build. I know thats no help, sorry......

Care to share how you got that awesome cover plate???!?

I'll probably be taken to task for the mere mention of this, but my only experience with wood to metal "gluing" was with polyuerethane construction adhesive. I know for a fact that it works, which is the only reason I'm mentioning it.

Absolutely beautiful so far. This is an excellent looking acoustic you have going.

.... if names are being dropped, has anyone mentioned Drak yet?? his builds are phenominal, and he's a back-yard builder like most of us. I always find inspiration from his guitars and building techniques. I think he stresses learning 'patience' more than anyone I know of and in this game, patience can be a project killer if you don't have it in spades..... Maybe just a list of all the GOTM winners ? do we have one of those??

whip 'em out wednesday??? or world of warcraft? I can't tell if thats a good wow, but I somehow doubt it.... I said no more pics till complete, but I smoothed out the upper horn after pondering Scotts advice. at this point, all shaping is done ( I hope... ) the tuner holes are drilled, the battery box is done and the strap button holes are in. I'm happy with the way its come out so far.

I'm not sure how Wez did it, I'm under the impression that he listened to the notes by ear, which can have a lot of variation depending upon the din around you. I ran the guitar into a studio meter so I could see that the attack level was consistent ( the pluck ) as well as measuring the cut off time acurately and consistently. I also tried it unplugged and noted both times, but I trust the machines more than my ears.

Wow. Thats the very scientific version of what I did in a notebook! ...and I did the fretted notes at 1st, 5th, 7th and 12th on each string, as well as bar chordsin a few positions. its a lot of plugged/unplugged numbers and I didn't want to bore folks with it. Plus my notes are probably only decipherable by me..... like a doctor wrote it. Or a first grader! Now, the "reason" the weight might diminish the sustain is another debate, one of which I have no interest in. It reduces it - that was all I needed to know. I might have to try one of those spreadsheets with my data, I'm just a hack with paperwork.

Yes.... yes you did.

Wez, I collected data from 3 different guitars and two basses. They were all similar in findings. The thicker strings vibrate longer than the thin ones, but they all lost sustain with the weight added. I posted the findings from the neck-through guitar as an example.

LOP. Off with its (dolphin) head.

Watching your builds unfold is a lot like a "how-to" tute, complete with pictures and question-and-answer sessions with the poster. in other words, your builds are awesome. I can't think of any one thing... you already go into really good detail.

all kidding aside - my findings may very well surprise the heck out of us all. all aspects of its applications, different mounting locations, types of weight and mounting styles ( taped and clamped ) shortened the sustain or made no difference at all. I can bore you with numbers and specs, but in almost every single instance, guitar and bass, the added weight ended the note sooner. Lets see if I can show a bit without droning ..... Neck Through guitar p=plugged/up=unplugged E ................A............. D .............G ...............B............. E 40p/17up ..27p/21up....18p/15up ...11p/13up...9p/9up...5p/5up ^^^ without any weight vvv with 2 Oz. brass clamped to top of HS E ................A.............. D .............G.............. B................E 30p/17up ..25p/20up ....18p/16up.....11p/12up.....9p/8up....4p/4up I checked audible to my ear sounds(unplugged) as well as plugged into studio equipment which measures input level. Case after case was the same result though. So - in my mind- myth busted. Y'all are free to figure it out for yourself or trust my findings... its up to you. it was educational at least ! and I won't be adding any weights to any guitars after finding this out.

Wow.

Thank you much. I have been in Atlantic City for the annual swimming pool convention for the past week, so no progress at all on this one. but now that the spas and pools are put away and the bikini-girls are all gone it is time to resume building.

So , I take it you're on the 'short-bus' with me and a few others around here. I like the odd-ball shapes. Anybody can make a copy of something, especially given templates (stencils) It'd be like a pile of people making Mona Lisa's from stencils and then showing off their 'artwork' ...... I think most builders stay away from doing their own designs because they can't handle the flak from those opposed to "different". I say build what you love because at the end of the day, its you that has to be happy. but what do I know??????

Thanks for the reply Spoke.... and for the offer of the bits Chris. I've never had a bit shear either and I've put them through way more than this one had been through. If it had gotten dull, started bogging, hit something, I could see it, but it just went in an instant. I probably won't ask for a refund from SM, although I appreciate the suggestion. Not likely to buy hot-rods again, so the odd sized bit isn't necessary anymore either..

Nice! It snowed today ( again ) so I went sledding with the kids. had a nice bonfire in the fire-pit and then a snowball fight, followed by hot chocolate made by grandma. It was great! I did nothing with the octo-bass as I'm contemplating lopping off the dolphin head like Scott suggested. Don't wanna act hastily.... so I got to it on my brothers bass - routed the pups and cavity for the controls, then drilled the looooong tunnel from the output jack to the neck pup. always a scary one to drill by hand. Came out great though. I like the new cover for your pointy stick. Looks great..... and I'm thinking the wifey needs some knickers like that. Oh yeah , and Natural.