MiKro

From Stewmac calculator. ridge placement for 25.500" scale length Distance indicated is from the fretboard edge of the nut to center of forward-most mounting screw or pivot post. Telecaster® style bridges 25.750" (± 0.030") Stratocaster® style bridges Non-tremolo bridge 25.250" (± 0.030") Tremolo bridges 25.250" (± 0.030") Floyd Rose® locking tremolos Floyd Rose Original 25.000" (± 0.030") Floyd Rose II & Schaller Floyd Rose 24.937" (± 0.030") Tune-o-matic style bridges 25.562" (± 0.030") from nut to center of treble-side post. Mount bass-side post 1/16"-1/8" further from the nut. Combo Bridge/Tailpieces 25.562" (± 0.030") from nut to center of treble-side post. Mount bass-side post 1/16"-1/8" further from the nut. Other Schaller Non-Tremolo Roller Bridge 26.343" (± 0.030") Top-Loading Style Hardtail Bridge 26.250" (± 0.030")

Welcome, What is it you are trying to do would be my first question? Router bits are not always the best option for a CNC job. What is your spindle type? RPM variable speed or fixed speed? Collet type and size? What IPM or MM/min can your CNC work with correctly? mk

Looking good Luis. MK

@ScottR, happy that the cataract surgery has helped you. It made a big difference for me. MK P.S. and Fanny Mae or what ever you are calling her is looking great.

Been working on a Tele Style neck. I have to make the head stock non conforming to keep from getting sued since the models are for sale. LOL!! I do add the 2d vectors though. Still some work to do on it but really close now.

Will be adding a neckthorugh/ set neck model as well. This can be used for all sort of builds if you know how to manipulate the 2d files. Still some work to do on it. mk

I am working on some more 3D models for CNC users. PRS and LP style. Working on neck models for these as well. mk

@Bizman62,I agree, but it all came from scraps, so no real loss. MK

Been a while on this project. Tests are semi complete. Some good data, but changes to be made. Next step is to start another one with enhancements that will resolve some weaknesses as well as some acoustic anomalies. This one is now ready for the burn pile. Note: Never use Nogal ( Peruvian Walnut ) in a quarter-sawn configuration, It splits terribly under stress, including using screws. The G2 version will use a hard-tail bridge as I think I have resolution to the issue of torsion in a thin floating top plate. I will be doing a redesign in the bridge area to counteract torsion and use a hard-tail bridge. It will be based on a Breedlove bridge torsion rod system. This appears to be a positive way for me to accomplish the look and structure that I am going for. Until next session, Be safe MK

My first question is what type of lacquer was being used? Some types need a plasticizer so when there is any flex it doesn't crack. These appear to be what ScottR implied about flex. Either from actual flex at that location or internal changes due to cold/heat or humidity changes. Also, did you thin down the lacquer to spray it? If so what type of thinner. A fast/hot thinner can make the finish brittle. Just my 0.02cents worth. MK

Not sure what that wood is, but the color of it being cut fresh would indicate bois'darc in Texas and that stuff is the devil to cut with anything. The mineral content makes sparks fly with a chain saw. LOL Mk

It would be possible using something like a 15* v bit mounted in a pin router with a very straight fence and very straight edge on a flat board. Make a vbit cut deeper than what the width needs to be. Add the epoxy. Then once you radius the board it would reveal itself. The reason behind the 15* Vbit is that it has more rigidity than say a very small endmill that you cannot keep from breaking doing this by hand as the feed rates will vary and possible small inflections sideways. MK

@mistermikev, He uses cnc and that is how he did it. The first pic is from his site, That is a headstock being CNCed Now the process is using a very small end mill say 0.025" most likely the same one used for his fretslots and then adding a pearled epoxy. then cutting it back. See my pic of a lapsteel I did. Same process just on a smaller level. MK

The 2021 Restart of this one. Ha I found the original CAD files. MK

Well I found this old thread when I started this one. WOW! 2010 It's missing all of the pictures though due to the Big Server Crash years ago. Finding this guitar in the bowels of the disaster shop from Hell is pure gold. LOL!! I guess I really need to finish this one? I don't really like the transitions in the neck though? I may have to do some creative cnc work on that. Now to find the original CNC files if I can? MK

Yes Sir that is exactly what I did. LOL!!! I needed to verify the depth of the problem.

@ScottR, No I made a path to that layer and bypassed a bunch of shit. LOL!!! MK

Thank you all for the kind words. These will see some attention soon. MK

Too Funny Scott, No problem about the MIL she has been gone for many years. Funny these may have been almost 10 years ago. LOL mk

I finally made it to the back of my disaster shop area and found this hiding in the closet ( also another electric not finished as well). I made this about 8 years ago and never finished it. The top is from a 100 year old barn siding piece I re-sawed into 4 sections ( western red cedar). The sides and back are Book matched Ambrosia Maple. That was a PITA to do since the colors are from bug butt stains and not grain. The binding is bocote. The rosette is birdseye maple and the back wedge trim is curly maple. Man what a funny combination. I put a shellac sealer coat on it all. I guess I should make a neck and bridge for it. LOL!!! MK Made this approx 8 years ago as well, Swamp ash Back, walnut middle and Spalted Pecan top. Neck is set neck curly maple, Striped ebony Fret board and lacewood head stock veneer. This was the last handmade neck I did. Went to CNC on necks after this one. I guess I need to finish this as well LOL

I added a curly maple center strip. about 0.8" wide. Not sure if I want to add contrasting stripes along side of it? Thinking about just keeping it simple and highlight this with more toner application during the finishing stage. MK

So I have just removed 0.020" off the top to see how it glued up for the second time. So far, so good, the book match still looks good as well. Now to decide on the center line fix. I at first was thinking an intricate inlay, but now maybe just a frigging stripe down the middle and move on. This one has been fighting me from the beginning and I need to get it done and move on to the next one. LOL!! MK

Finally had a few minutes today to get the to the messed up top. LOL. I know it looks like hell right now but it is glued down. I ain't gonna toss a good top just because it didn't glue right the first time. As you can see the center glue line is totally messed up now. I have a plan. Once I do some inlay magic and some other things it will be fine. MK

For those of you that may want a 3d STL model for your CNC to make, please check out my Etsy Store. I have Strat style, Tele Style and an Iceman Style model as well as a few neck models. Still more to come. MK 3dGuitarsbyRio

Yes that is what it seems at the moment @Bizman62. One thing I did not do was use carbon fiber in my braces which is what I intend to do at some time. That may mitigate the problem? Will need to test it. I know from building acoustics that bracing usually has some radius. Yes they will end up as firewood. LOL!! mk