MiKro

Jon you can pick one up at HomeDepot for less than $10. MK

You too Matt!! I'm glad to see you are finally getting some done, Keep up the good work, lose the Green MK

oops!! I trimmmed it!! Hope it tastes better now?

No brother...you misunderstood. >snip< However, if anyone does want any number of words on any subject I could probably bash something out...school papers, reasons to be cheerful...any takers? pete ... Fair enough Bro!!

Consider it moved MK

So Pete I understand the acoustic KILL IT NOW!!! but damn dude did you have to try and kill John as well Not that I agree or disagree but please kill me as well. I want REAL feed back. I don't want sympathy for my disabilities.. That's the last the thing I want. And If Anyone voted for that reason then you voted wrong!!!!!!!! I put the RESo up becuase it is the best I have done and I'm damn proud of it. It plays like a dream and everyone that has listened or played it to date wants one. or it. It is a one of, thats it. If there's another one then someone copied it. Pete I love ya like a Brother and I want you to know it's okay. I bitch at my wife like this as well. Peace to ya my friend! !! Just had to kick at ya for a second, must be the Scotch!!!!!!!!! Yep I might be a little in the bottle Maybe more so:) Mike

Rough it in with bandsaw top or back of headstock then use router on router table for top or jig setup with router for back of headstock. MK

Hehe, I voted for this one, and one thing I liked was the tailpiece...funny what sways our votes! I mean that guitar is creatively made and that tailpiece looks like "from other guitar" For example watch the tailpiece in Dave's Blue Dragonfly http://www.mykaguitars.com/instruments/049/56.jpg I think the handmade wood taipiece would suit this Mikro's guitar more I get what you mean. I was just pointing out different tastes or opinions. When I looked at it my first thought was "Hey, cool! I didn´t expect to see that" . Myka´s handmade tailpiece is awesome, and I´m positive MK would have done a great job as well. And thansk everyone so far on this, and yes the tailpiece is a problem for me as well. It is what it is. I don't understand wooden tailpieces well enough at this time to have tried it on this one. Not sure of the grain orentation and such that I was comfortable to do it. Not that I didn't think of it! But was not the priority. Perry thank you for the kind words. Your entry is awesome as usual and I commend you on the simplicity and complexity that most don't see. My Hats off to you. Very well presented. Matt the green is hideous in my opinion. but that's me, the design is great for a pointy guitar. I think different when I think of pointy though. Maybe the next one I do will illustrate that? Geometry in motion maybe. I have an idea in my head!! Daniel as usual an awesome build. I love the blue. Funny thing, Blue is my color and I have yet to use it on wood. HB. The color/finish is DARK just doesn't do me. The headstock shape and body are not doing it for me either. But again that's mt taste. Otherwise well crafted and I'm sure if I could play it it would feel great. Chops. The body does nothing for me, it is otherwise a great build. CRS: Nice but I don't like Jems Period. Yours is well executed. Sl the build is very nice. Ithink the horns are too long but that's my eyes looking at it. I know I'm to damn traditional. Smae bitch everyone wil have with my opinion Org What can I say, just Hillbilly!!!!!!!! I love it cause you are outside as well. John, the finish is great, very subtle. just the way you want, It's very well executed. I still don't get the shape going for me but I'm sure in my hands I would understand. Mike

Or find an Early 80s Carvin X100B, they have a switch for 25/50/100 watts. I think the new release of it only does 50/100? MK

John, It really depends on how thick it is. I have cold wet bent curly maple for an acoustic with no problem. If tighter bends are needed then heat needs to be applied. My average thickness though is .060 to .040 If you want to do say .125 then heat will be needed even on an acoustic. Just what I have experienced so far. Mike

Go to this site and look in the woodworking links. Just some place for you to start. There you can find a few forums and other places to ask many questions specifically about woodworking questions. Also look through the one listed as woodshop demos Link MK

When you say much too thick? What are your thoughts on this? As Gilmer wood and many others offer backs , sides and tops that are within limits of acoustic build specs. So please give us more info on your requirements and who it is that you are referring to that don't offer this. Now if you are looking at Billets and want to resaw or split your own, then that's different. some more info will help to answer the question. MK The company I'm looking at sells the wood in board feet. 12x12x1 is 1 board foot, some wood is available in 2 inch thicknesses, so it's 2 board feet. Of course, 1 or 2 inches is way too thick for acoustic guitars. I'm no experienced with carpentry, so is there a tool/table that will plane wood to re-adjust it's thickness? I'm assuming acoustic soundbards and backs and sides are 1/8-2/8 inches thick, am I not correct? So, that's my target thickness. I am fully aware of board foot measurements. Now back to the question. Yes you could use a planer to thickness it down. I would suggest though that it be resawed on a bandsaw first to maximize the wood gain and minimize waste. Then using a planer or thickness drum sander you can refine it to the desired thickness. I would maybe suggest that you start with buying wood from somewhere like Stewmac, or LMI, or maybe Gilmerwood. They have wood for luthiery that will be more to your desired thickness requiring less major tools on your part. Just a suggestion. Hope that helps you some? MK

+1

When you say much too thick? What are your thoughts on this? As Gilmer wood and many others offer backs , sides and tops that are within limits of acoustic build specs. So please give us more info on your requirements and who it is that you are referring to that don't offer this. Now if you are looking at Billets and want to resaw or split your own, then that's different. some more info will help to answer the question. MK

Pm me I have a friend with an Epilog laser. 12 x 24 in. I'm sure he can help you at a reasonable cost. Mike

Erik, Very Nice Rig. I'm impressed. but I think you need MORE!!!!!!!!!!!! BTW Thanks. MK

No Problem Dan, It's taken care of now. and BTW welcome to PG. Mike

Certainly not trying to make any insinuations about your ability or experience, but have you ever done this before, MiKro? I don't have any experience using two pack poly, but the reason that I ask is that I had a lot of problems using conversion varnish over shellac. CV is also a two pack finish. No problem and I may be wrong on that since I have not done it myself, as I don't use Urethane or Poly. I do know some woodworkers that have used it on other wood projects and have had good results. Now, I can only base that on what I saw, but I cannot attest to the durability of it over time. So no problem with asking me to define my answer. So my take on it would be as always, use a test piece and try it. I think that is understood by most when it comes to finish, but then again I sometimes assume too much Mike

Quite the contrary, sir...You are a beacon of light, hard a$$ wise... Thank you very much .

Not sure how that would work since a planer knife is a straight edge? Would have to see that to believe it. No way a straight edge is going to give a radius, maybe an tapered flat surface using a sled but not a radius? Just trying to understand this unless the knives are made like a shaper to cut the radius as well. MK

Use the Trans tint in a dewaxed shellac, The two part will work over it as a clear coat. Just make sure to give the shellac a few days to REALLY flash off and scuff it some to allow a good tooth for Bonding with the poly. MK

So Joe, I'm not that bad as MR K am I? or are you referring to someone else? I know I can be a hard a$$. Now Ryan thats one nice looking ride. I Remember my Mom buying a NEW 65 maybe 64 ( been a long time ago) Corvair Monza 4 dr. Man that was a cool car. I was 7 to 9 then. It was dark metallic green. MK

It's okay Ryan, Also thank you for giving us some background on you. So now I feel better about some things as well. again we are here to help as I'm sure you will be able to give some great info on other subjects as well. So now the new quest begins with a fresh outlook. So don't be afraid the ask, when you have studied and it still makes no sense. Sometimes the Forest gets in the way of the trees and sometimes it's just plain Bass Ackwards. Mike

Looking great Chris, Saw this on the OLF as well. Say Hello to David. Mike

Ryan, I am not trying to be mean in what I'm going to suggest to you. I think maybe you should take some time to study on the matter at hand. I would suggest that you start with Melvin Hiscocks book "Make your own electric guitar" Also do some reading on the Stewmac site in there tips and tricks section, as well as read some of the tutorials here at PG. I'm not sure you are really ready to build a guitar at this time based on the questions you have been asking and I would hate to see you make an investment only to have it not work as well as maybe your safety. Your enthusiasm is great and we all are here to help, but I think you need to progress a bit more before tackling the project you have at hand based on your apparent lack of knowledge that you have demonstrated in your posts. I'm trying to save you some heart ache, some $ and hopefully your safety as well. Just respectfully suggesting that you slow down a bit, formulate your questions and study. Sincerely, Mike