MiKro

+1 on what CHris said, or find a local cabinet shop and pay them to resaw it. MK

sorry double post??

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So why not make the body yourself? Then it's for the application you propose? mk

LMAO!!! ANOTHER Johnsons Paste wax fan. Have a can that is many many years old that is used only for the tools. I now take the palm sander after the wax dries and fold up a paper towel and polish the tops of my tablesaw, sander tables and bandsaw table.LOL:) Man does a piece of maple fly across that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MK

Pm me please, just in the event that I am available to be there, would like to meet you and talk wood. Mike

Hard or soft they can all be curly as well as most hardwoods. If it's amber in color, most likely it's big leaf maple which is soft and is found in the west. Now if it's white? Now comes the next hard part? How white is white? How does it sand? If it scallops more between the flame, using sandpaper and your fingers not a block ( somewhat similar to pine does between grain lines but not as deep) it is more than likely soft white maple. If it sands consistently across the figure and is white in color it is most likely Eastern Hard maple. Now this is not a hard fast set of rules, but in general that's what you will find most times. As far as dying, all maple tends to blotch, some more than others, So I would suggest a light seal coat of dewaxed shellac to minimize the problem. 1/8 to 1/4 pound cut will work fine. Just my .02cents worth MK

Sounds good, and fair, that you are willing to work with the members here. I hope I get a chance to meet with you. I wish you well on sales at the show. Sincerely, Mike BTW: If I am in town What name do I look for at the show? MK

If I don't have to go to Austin this weekend I'll stop by. Don't worry about giving me any wood,I have plenty. I do appreciate you making the effort. Thanks. Mike

High price or not, finding the ultimate low weight Swamp Ash for ERB's is a major pain in the ass. And these are definitely some lower weight pieces. I have met some luthiers that pay $100+ per swamp ash body blank that is below a certain amount of weight. Jon , You know I respect your opinion, and that said I still believe that it is overpriced. Unless they are on the lighter side of Swamp ash and straight grained almost close to to quarter sawn it's to to high. So , If Mr M is willing to send me some and I see for for myself. I'll be more than happy to shop elsewhere. If it is what he says. I'll help him out. I did propose a trade instead of him being out the cost of wood and shipping. I'm not trying to screw him. Just want to know the real truth. MK

consider the offer done. I'll pm you. If it's what you say then I'll endorse it if not I'll tell all I still eleive wit what I can get it's high priced. prove to me that yours is better and I 'll stand behind 100% Mike consider yourself PMed

Thats the equivalent of cosmoline. It's used to protect it from rust during shipping. Use some mineral spirits and clean it off then your good to go. MK

#1 It appears high $ for swamp ash by at least 5 or more $ per board ft. also the size is not listed long enough to know what it is. Sorry have to pass!!!!!!! MK

Occam's Razor! "All things being equal, the simplest solution tends to be the right one." mk

May I suggest that next time you feel the need to burn. Cut up all the wood into 6" by 3/4" sq pieces and donate them to the pens for America or something. The wood turners love these and make pens to send to our troops. Check out your local Woodcraft or other wood working place in your home town. Just a thought!!! Recently the local Woodcraft Store had a Saturday where over 300 pens got turned and shipped to our troops. The best part was watching a 6 year old with his GrandDad helping turn one. Man what a way to start one on the woodworking journey. Mike

Many people (including me) feel daunted by making necks and buy a premade neck for their first projects. But if you take your time, you can do it. >snip< Your plan is sound and doable, follow what Inisheer said and ask questions after searching and seek local help if needed, I used to feel the same way about necks, now I find them the most enjoyable part . As the neck is what the player uses to make the guitar purrr!!! . It's like the feel of a woman and the purrr to touch. they just move you. Like FRIGGING SEXY!!!!!!!!!! Man what a feeling!!!!! It's just !!!!!!!!!!!!! When it's right it's right. MK

Unfortunately Jon did the search for you. Please try it, it does work sometimes. Jon you are too nice to Newbies sometimes!!!!!!!!!!!!! If they took the time to read and research theses post s would not be necessary and cost space whicjh cost Kevin $. Sorry Having a PMS day day here!!!!!! MK

I agree with ryanb. Even though the PC's hole is small it is a standard size and should fit your bit requirements, measure it since you must have it on display. The plunge base is a real nice addition and was not available when I bought mine an older PC 690, I highly recommend getting it with the router for guitar work. I have never had a soft start router and the 3 year old quote sort of applies. More marketing than a real necessity. If the bits are too big for the standard hole, made for holding guides, after market bases are available with larger holes for cheap, or you can make your own from plexi. The thing I like about the PC, it is the standard by which most accessories are based upon. If you buy something like an overarm router setup (grizzly), a router table, or a cnc machine (maybe being a bit over your head here) you will be assured the PC adapter will be included or available. Makes your life easier in the long run. Yes there are more expensive and better routers out there but this router is a work horse. Unless you are using big honking bits VS is unnecessary and you can always buy a cheap VS adapter as an add on to reduce the speed. If using big bits was the reason for your purchase I would recommend a VS 3HP plunge router instead. Hitachi is a cool looking brand (pretty colors) but I would put it in the category of lower end pro tools but certainly above Ryobi, black and decker, skill and sears all brands I believe are for people who don't use tools or don't care about quality or longevity (my opinion so don't beat me up on that quote). I always say if you don't use the tool all the time try looking for a reconditioned kit with the plunge base. Try amazon.com for reconditioned tools. If it beats your Home Depot discount. I hope Home Depot sells the full kit. Hey and why does Home Depot always leave crap blocking the isles, cant they restock at night, LOL (I always wanted to complain), Good luck with the purchase. Just an FYI on routers. The standard for bushings is PC. Just thought that all should know. So If it says it handles bushings on the guide plate , check that it is standard. if so It's PC standards. If not don't buy it. Just my .02 cents worth. MK

Sas, Obviously you know I love using shellac. I believe your next step has merit and I wish you well with the results. Mike

Looking good so far Andy. MK

OK where are the woodworkers when you need them? First why would you have to grain fill pine it has no grain to fill???? RGman thanks for a knowledgeable response though brief. Have you ever stained pine, well pine has soft and hard areas so it stains unevenly and is probably is the reason you are having sanding issues. You must have areas of the board which are soft, the hard soft lines generally follow the grain in my experience but it may also be a random pattern. No matter what you use the more you sand the worse it will get. Usually if I use pine (certianly not for guitar work) I havent had issues using a random orbit sander. Some pine could be really bad and it sounds like your problem. Old boards can be worse than newer wood because pine does not harden with age. if you have ever seen an old worn pine floor board, it looks wave like, because the softer areas wear faster. I have no solution other than to try a scraper blade on the hard areas (High spots) get it as flat as possible then sand lightly or scrap the piece and start again. Other options would require more expensive sanding solutions such as a thickness sander. My personnel opinion (please read that again) is of you want a cheap wood to use on a guitar (I can see no other reason for using pine), buy Poplar instead, Its almost the same price and as a guitar wood will provide a predictable outcome. +1 on Woodenspokes thoughts. Pine is a funny type of wood depending on the type. Yellow, hard, northern, lodgepole/western, they have many similarities and differences. But the short of it is very soft with hard grain lines. Not good for sanding. Sapwood is the mostly likely obtained now days no matter what subspecies, unless specified for flooring. So , I suggest you live with it, fill it, then coat it and level the clear coat or best, choose something else. Yep not the answer you wanted to hear but that's the nuts of it. MK

I beleive you meant pickup height springs? Yes you are correct I guess I need to reread my posts )))))) I don't know but maybe my idea will catch on LMAO!!!! Let's see can you say acoustic!!! as the pickups are useless with glued screws LOL A definite case of cranial methane on my part Thanks M for the catch. mk

Hollow body with access from the control cavity. Or Hollow body and use the pickup holels for acces, just remember to glue your pickup height screws to the ears first. MK

Yes you can apply with a cloth. JUst make sure that you use a DEWAXED shellac. cut to a 1/8lb to 1/4lb cut. YOU can then use denatured alchol to blend any spots that may not look right together. Allow the coats to dry throughly, Then you can use nitro or poly on it. MK

While I understand your desire to use water as a vehicle for the dye I would suggest not. Maple has a tendency to blotch. Therefore the reason I use something that does not SOAK in, but lightly sets in the first part of the of the grain. Just my .02cents worth of working with maple. Mike