pauliemc

I may be taking you up wrong here, But from your post it seems you want to cut a rebate to put binding into, Like a Les Paul. Faux binding is just masking. Faux as in fake. I use pinstriping tape to achieve it. Just tape all around the edge of the guitar top & then apply your stain. When you pull the tape off it appears that you have a seperate binding. I have a lefty Prs thread on here, I think I have it in there BTW. Welcome back to the forum.

This one works well. Something simple. Or else leave it with no holes at all. But then thats just my opinion

I sometimes Dip bodies. if you have enough finish its easy. I use poly from Behlen. I pour a tin of poly into a rectangular container if im going to be using it, as I never brush anymore, I prefer to use a roller. So the flat sides of the rectangualr container work great. BUT, if there is enough poly in there I will sometimes just emerse the body into it & then let it hang & the excess clear run off. You still have to do a little sanding with the orbital between dips & for final buffing but fook it. If the initial application only takes 20 seconds for a good coat I dont care.

Indeed they do sell chainsaws. I have one in the house. But you cant just go choppin trees down over here. Last time I took a saw to a tree, winds took down the big eucalyptus in the front of my house & almost tore half a chestnut tree apart on its way over. A neighbour (guy with the chestnut tree) helped me start clearing the 2 trees. But the cops arrived & gave us a bolliking - no licence for that kinda work. even on my own property. Local authority guys came out to clear it up 2 days later. & I had to PAY the guy to let me keep the good lumber to cut into boards ORG you have some nice tools there. Every time I go over one of your posts I start getting a case of tool envy.

+1. too big. Shrink em a little. take a look at some of Gibsons old jazz guitars for a good referance on proportions.

True. But you only need to tell it what to do correctly once. then it replicates its own work over & over & over for years on end. Was hoping to go get a programable paulie (CNC) this week, but the car ate itself & I have to replace that instead. Screw it, ill get one in november Cant wait to see a finish over that top. should be absolute porn

Wow, I was just looking around Maderas Barber's site & figured Id get a few pieces to check out their quality. Maby use them as a supplier for some things in the future. But when it came to chek out time it turns out that the minimum order was €200.00 *** !!

I rekon your burst approach is on the money. I was thinking inlay for those gouges a few days back, but an inlay that would cover them properly would probobly be too big & look out of place on that horn. Would kill the flow from the body & ruin your lines in my opinion. Stick with the current plan

Lookin realy good Rad. You seem to be getting the hang of RoboRad fairly easily.

Sometimes it can be a bitch getting some timbers here aswell. I need sapele, Ash, Maple, Limba, Spalted beeech, poplar & rosewood just now. Did the usual tour of my wood suppliers & found most of it, But Ash, sapele & limba are a no show in the sizes I need. Rosewood is non existant. Found one poplar board I can use. There is something very annoying about not being able to get Ash in IRELAND, it grows here like grass, everywhere. I mean my house has 6 out the back along with some beech & 2 huge eucalyptis.

Potted = wax potted. Some humbuckers are not wax potted. These tend to be based more on the original PAF model from Gibson. The problem with un-potted pups is that they have a tendancy to be squealy bstrds at high gain levels, making them unweildy for a lot of players. Later models of humbuckers were subjected to a process called potting. this involved emersing them into a solution of hot wax to fill up every little space in the wire coil, between the bobbins & sometimes inside the metal cover aswell. These "potted" pickups were better able to handle high gain levels without going microphonic (squealing). So you need a set of "Potted" humbuckers. Seymore duncan & Dimarzio are the usual port of call for a lot of upgrades. they both have a large range to suit most budgets. But GFS make very nice pickups for a budget. My link So do these guys My link both a decent budget pickup. Just be sure you get POTTED pickups. Hope this helps

Exactly. Ibanez churn out the Basswood gitirs, bland lookin as hell & no real tonal anything to it - but nobody bitches about it. More poplar gitirz I say

Nice trick turning yourself invisable. But you forgot to take your sandles off, we can still see you Gitir is lookin groovey. You gona try do anything about the 2 gouges in the top horn ?

Woe ! either the guitar shrunk - or that one big ass chisel gouges I use are about 1/4 that size.

I realy like Poplar for bolt on builds. It gets unfairly slated sometimes, But screw it. I like it, im right & everybody else is wrong Like the shape of this thing. Has a groovy kinda flow from the main bout of the body into the horns.

To be honest. you should shop for mid priced componants as your low grade parts. The cheaper you go the more you sacrifice in materials & workmanship quality. Unless you are making a batch of about 100 low budget-entry level guitars for a distributer or for a few stores, stay away from realy cheap parts. Screws can be gotten by the box of 100-500 in an engineering or tool suppliers. They wont be cheap crappy screws either, & will cost next to nothing for the quantity. A local fabricator could make a batch of truss rods for you at reanonable prices. Or just buy lenghts of stainless rod & make them yourself. Single action rods end up costing me about €4.00 to make. Double action about €6.00. But I make them in batches of 50-60. As to ferrules, those are a direct link from the string to the timber. So they can have an effect on tone. If you put in crap grade cast zinc as oppsed to milled aliminium or brass to save $6.00 or less for a build - your priorities are a little out of whack. Strap buttons & vol knobs, OK. buy cheap if you must. But even these only save $5.00 or so on a build. I see no point. If you want to save money then buy in bulk. & buy medium to high quality parts. Or even make them yourself if you can. Buy your timber an large boards - unfinished. for bodies, tops, fret boards. Same goes for fret wire. Get your horn, bone, hoof from a slaughter house & shell from the beach or a seafood farm (oyster, clam, abalone farm) But realy. Saving are only realy viable over a number of builds, Say 20 or more. & ask yourself. If you commosioned a custom guitar & the builder used budget grade parts instead of the very best your budget allowed, would you be happy ? Would you ever send a friend to that builder ? I know its a rant. But seriously man. For a saving of maby $50.00 its just not worth all the hassle

Your kidding ? Learn something new every day I realy do need to read more on the alternative names for timber. I had a bench made up of 4 9x4 inch frameri boards for a few years, untill I found out it was Limba Well that being the case Its time to hit the band saw & see how many I can come up with.

I have a chunk of Sonokeling in the shop for years now that I had almost forgotten about. Was not sure what to use it for, But now Im thinking Fretboards. I have enough for maby 40-45 boards. Has anybody ever used it as a fretboard themselves ? How did they find it as opposed to rosewood (which is getting difficult to get here now) Any opinions or info would be of interest.

OOPS ! sorry, my screw up. Na. satin was used on the back of the neck only. The body & headstock was the gloss version of this stuff. Although I did have to flat the satin with some 000 wire wool. as it did come up a little less satin than I wanted. I havent used it enough to know anything about witness lines yet. Id say if you got your flash times wrong you would get a few. This was done over a few days. 3 coats in a day, wait untill there was no smell, cut it & spray 3 more. 12 coats in all, flatted every third coat. It was kinda inconsistant in its drying times. But the weather here has been nuts for the past while so humidity & temperature were definithly a factor id say. sometimes it took 2 days to be ready for the next coats, sometimes 4 or 5. I have been leaving some guitars hanging in the booth as opposed to the drying room latley as an experiment. Some just hanging in the booth, some under UV lights for a few hours at a time (in the booth) & others in the drying room. Im thinking Ill stick to the dry room. Its more consistant & I seem to be able to controle the curing process better in there. The UV is a pain aswell. I have to be conscious of the timbers I am using. Sometimes it changes colour with the light Im still realy a brainless wonder with finishes. some of the others on here may have more experiance with eurethane.

Dont worry about the mistakes man.half the fun is learning how to hide them. I would not bother with oak. Its very plain looking. Id get a strip of ash or maby even pine (flat sawn) They will at least have a little bit of grain in them. they tend to take stain very well also.

Realy nice inlay work man.

No. was easy enough. Only had a few tiny areas to touch up with a blade after the tape was peeled off. I used a fine line pinstriping tape from 3M. not the blue stuff. Pinstriping tape flexes around corners much better. I used some of this. My link Its expensive when shipping to Ireland is included. But was so easy to use & came up realy well. I need to find a supplier over here because I think ill be using a lot of this stuff. Either that of hop on a ferry & go to the UK, Fill up the land rover & head home

Dig the footwear. Its like a Jason Voorhees face mask for your feet Gitir is lookin realy cool too

It may have something to do with the edge grain. I had similar problems on a few guitars over the years. I figures it had to do with large open pores on the face & open endgrain so close to it. I could be wrong. I just took the finish back & redone the sealer. But rubbed it in with 000 wirewool. that way some of the sanding dust got mashed into the pores aswell. Helped with sinking finishes. Maby someone with more oil experiance could offer a good explanation

That is the very one. Gorgeous! I presume the customer was totally thrilled with it? SR Yea. lot of little tricks. Fine art background helps a lot. I use your proposed teqhnique of dye, spray & tinted laquer to do fake flame. Does not hold up once you spot it. but from 10 feet away - Flamed alder cherry burst strat yes please !! And then there are those who could not tell fake figure from the real thing anyway. fool em every time Customer loved that JS Lotus. Got a nice letter from him gushing about how much ass it kicked. Always nice. So hows the carve going, Are you a slow carver, over a few days?. Or do you pull a Paulie & try knock it out in a single 10 hour stint ?