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mikhailgtrski

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Everything posted by mikhailgtrski

  1. I was checking the grit range/types on Norton's site, and noticed that their 3X line (sold at Home Depot) uses a waterbased stearate to reduce loading. I believe stearates can contaminate your finish ... I've since switched to 3M Gold FreCut paper. Mike
  2. Pray tell, what type? Castle construction? Kitty disposal systems?
  3. Looks nice! Is it the pic, or did you spray a toner coat after staining it? It seems like the figure is muted just a tad.
  4. Hehehehehe Something like this comes to mind. Or this.
  5. (sound of picking self up off floor after falling out of chair)... What, no "cover it with a pickguard? You have chosen wisely, my son.
  6. Don't know about that particular one, but it probably is just a pot (I used to use the input/output volume on my rack f/x to control the volume via the f/x loop). If you have a post-phase inverter f/x loop (on a Marshall, anyway), it will give you a little more "something", but it's not the same as power tube distortion. There are power-scaling solutions out there that do more, but I'd say get a Hotplate or Weber MASS attenuator (or find a good DIY attenuator schematic, if you're so inclined) if you want to get the power tubes working for you. Mike
  7. I don't know how critical it is for spraying guitars, but I made sure the compressor could handle the cfm requirement of the spray gun. Mine is a 2hp compressor with a 33 gallon tank. With a 24 liter/6 gallon tank your compressor will be kicking in a lot more often. I have a filter/trap at the compressor, and a dessicant filter and regulator at the gun.
  8. OK, it's been 5 weeks (37 days to be exact ) since I shot the final coat of nitro (20-25 coats total). The finish has hardened quite nicely, but there's still a faint solvent smell - as in you have to put your nose right up to the surface to notice it. I know some finishers like to scuff sand before hanging it up to cure, with the idea that the sanding breaks the surface film and allows the solvents to escape more easily. Whatdya think? Scuff sand now, or leave it alone? Mike
  9. I put a modified Fender logo on my jazz bass... got a sheet of water slide decal film made for running through a laser printer (found it at a hobby store). Created the logo in Photoshop and printed it on a color copier at Kinko's (their color printer wouldn't feed the thicker stock well). Turned out great.
  10. It's done that to me before too, it likes to combine all your posts if there's not enough time elapsed between them.
  11. Adding on to the Castle, are we? I'm generally not a huge fan of burl, but that figure+burl thing you've got going there is really nice! It's really kind of a tutorial, and those are ok to have as many pics as it takes. Careful or Drak'll feed you to the W.O.D.
  12. Alas, apparently I wasn't fully conscious... wee bit of solvents still gassing off when I got home.
  13. Nice to have a wife that can handle the channellocks. A pic of that scene would've been priceless.
  14. Depends on how much enhancement you want. Shellac or some type of oil finish (compatible with your clearcoat) would give you a more subtle look. Or you could stain it amber, sand back, then do a final pass of light amber. Yes, test on scrap first.
  15. Trying to imagine... if it's just the first three, doesn't sound like a trussrod issue (although having one stuck can't be good). Sounds like a poor fret job.
  16. Depends on the body (flat, carved, etc.), how thick the neck heel is and how deep you route the pocket. That's what your drawing is for. Now, you could build one with 0 angle and a non-recessed TOM if the neck was thick enough and/or the pocket shallow enough. But you wouldn't want to play it.
  17. +1 He's not kidding. You'll never build one with plain dots again. Ever.
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