Gemleggat

As for string spacing at the bridge. Measure the string spacing on the bridge and subtract 7 or 8mm and that gives you about 3mm-4mm each side of the outside strings, 4mm is better with your bigger strings, this will be the size at the end of the fingerboard. For the nut i would measure a 7 string nut spacing and add 1 more string width to it plus 6-7mm for your string edges. Dont copy the measurement from a 6 string and add 2, this will be probably too wide. The proper way to do this is to draw out a full scale plan. This includes, scale lenght, nut width, bridge width (string spacing) lenght of fretboard. It wont take anymore that 10 mins to draw it and it will answer all your questions. Good luck

the bridge- 70 wood -100 (got the body for free) tuning machines-about 100 ferreules-12 fret wire-32 pickups-220 screws-20 electronics-30 other hardware- 40 glue-12 finishing 100(nott even) cavity covers- 12 nut-2 total $756.00 anything i forgot? ← Truss rod, router templates, router bits, clamps, glue, straight edges, brad point bits, sandpaper, saws, files, rasps, planes, surforms, scrapers etc. i am assuming you have all these already?

I second that, you also said in your other post that it could be build for $900, i cant see hoe you are going to do this.

Stew mac sells clear grainfiller.

They have a reverse taper, only really useful for volume pots. Yes TOMs are the same just reverse the saddles.

Tuners may have to be different depending the headstock, 3 a side or reverse dont require left handed parts. Tune0matics are the same. Nuts are usually made from a piece of bone or plastic and can be slotted to suit. You can also get left handed control pots but these are not essential. Good luck

Its not illegal or immoral to paint or change a guitar in anyway and sell it, normal rules apply of course.. There is plenty of "custom shops" around that install LED's in the neck or paint it chrome and then market it as something of their creation, even if it was just a tele for example. What that guy does is unique to a centain extent and interesting too. Maybe the guy isnt very good at building from blocks of wood, and you say that he "just" adds some carvings goes to show you dont know much about the subject. Maybe carving is what he does! As a for fender being Poop as u call it, thats a sweeping generalization if i ever heard one and no more that just a (badly founded) opinion. I also doubt that you could build an 8 string for much less than one could be bought, getting parts is difficult. Pickups, bridge etc will all be hard to obtain and probably very expensive. EDIT: Also I would really like to see a guitar that you designed that looks like nothing ever seen before. so it must have at least 3 cutaways, either 2 tremolo's or no bridge at all, and 5 pickups (4 has been done) 1 headstock will also make it a copy of something else, so try 2. Try and invent a new colour while you are at it..... Good luck though

I thought those carvings on the those Darkstars were really good. Can you show me some of your carvings or designs malebolgia? I cant think of another style of guitar that would suit those augmentations better than those.

I remember my school techy teacher making me polish the edge of an plexi keyring i made with Brasso (metal/brass polish). It took ages but it came out really well. Just if you need to polish the edges a little. They remind me of gretsch pup rings.nice

Screws wont do much to stop the neck shifting in the pocket. You really need to shim the side of the neck to make it a closer fit.

I have 2 carbon fibre rods to install in my first build. The main reason i wanted to use them was for future insurance. I was wondering if they would do much to resist compression forces that makes scale lenght shrink and necks go into the dreaded S shape in years to come. Anyone know much about this? I am using a hotrod between them. What sort of reliefs should i expect the neck to come up to with the truss rod loose? I know thats difficult to answer and is totally comparitive.

Its just buzz from what is now a single coil pickup. Plug in a strat and you'll see what i mean.

You can turn it more than 1/4 turn if you need to. I hear so many times about breaking truss rods. If seen 3 or so in my life and they were probably down to the failure of the wood that supports them and not the rod. You cannot break a rod by loosening it.

If you can just get some blank one's made up, then you will always have the right one to hand. EDIT:Ah someone said that.

What about LSR's?

Probably .023 if its that new. I would remove one fret and get feeler gauges in there and see whats what.

The fret calculator will work with that scale also. You have to give more details if you want help. Is it glue in or bolt on? Etc

Anything on the designs, specs, tools used etc? Is that for a Kahler?

Some seriously nice limba there. Im sure metal matt will love this Watch the rules on pic posting, only one per post and then the rest links.

Someone else told me about him too. I guess he must be good. I used craft supplies and i wasn't really impressed. Can i ask how much that cost you? Is it alder?

I see that your in the UK, where did you get the wood?

Do you mean a gouge? These are sharpened on a cone shaped sharpening stone. Is that what you meant? Good luck

I have spent about £400 on tools so far and about £200 on wood, fret wire, pups, machine heads etc and all i have got to show for it so far is 3 blocks of wood and finished fretboard. Its a very steep learning curve with pitfalls and sore heads. I have spent far more time thinking, drawing stuff, sourcing stuff and making jigs than anything else so far. I'm sure once i get this first build done with i will make the second in a 1/4 of the time and it will cost me about 1/4 of the $ this one has. Learn Learn Learn. I think you are so far ahead of yourself you are almost getting behind! Good luck with your first build, what you should only be thinking about.

LOL, i was confused for a while before i answered it. It really threw me!

Why don't you just tighten the truss rod? It doesnt really matter what the neck is like when the strings are off and rod is loose. Does the guitar play ok when the rod is tightened up?