SoundAt11

Bump before I part it out and send to eBay.

Alrighty, Matt & Rick, got your orders sent out this afternoon

Simo, don't leave us hanging, what's the latest?

Another person irritated by Cocobolo right here *raises hand* I'm not allergic to anything, but that wood starts making my eyes and nose itchy and my face tingly. So if you've been handling it and it doesn't irritate you, then you may be OK to use it for a fretboard (since everyone seems to leave Rosewood-types unfinished). It's beautiful wood and is certainly suitable for a neck. It sounds great and isn't too difficult to hard with (I'd choose it over maple any day). It'd look sweat for a top where you could really show it off and have a clear coat over it to seal out those irritating oils.

OOPS! Thanks for letting me know, Greg. Both links were "abbreviated" by the board and it cut out part of the address. Links fixed and now working.

Will can you break out a list of the types of wood and board footage of each type. Peace,Rich Hi Rich, That'd require me to actually account for how much wood I have, that sounds like work Seriously, though, all I the wood I have is what's in my eBay store and already cut to size, so using the Store Categories section on the left side can be sorted by species or category and all the pieces should have measurements in there. I'd just like to sell off bundles of that stuff at a discount soon, rather than wait for every piece to sell over the next few months at regular price (or discounting and still paying all the relisting fees).

Sperzel Locking Tuners-Satin/Chrome : $35 For reference, check out my eBay feedback: http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...serid=soundat11 or search on forum.

Still trying to get rid of everything and eBay seems dead. Ideally, I'd like to have no wood left within 2 weeks when I'm likely moving. http://www.soundat11.com If you want to buy a large bundle or all of my inventory of lumber and glue, just PM me with an offer of what you'd like to buy, how much, and include your zip code for a shipping estimate. Shipping is surprisingly reasonable within the US. I've calculated shipping everything from Louisiana (where I live) to the east coast and it came in between $80-100 (not bad for over 100 pieces of wood). Will

Classy! Walnut and Gold look perfect together, like a piece of high-end furniture. Any more pics of the completed guitar?

That's around 3.5lbs per board foot, equal to African Mahogany's average weight per bf.

Nice slotting on that fretboard. Also, I like the "gunstock" style of neck laminations that you did (don't know if that was intentional or not), nice to look at (guess I stare at the edge of guitar necks to much).

Bingo, that's a very accurate description. If you go with African Mahogany, make sure you know the weight, at least, and tap test it if possible. I'd suggest Honduran Mahogany if possible, as most of it that I find is a little softer and less dense than the African variety, which should give you a little warmer, darker tone. If you want to be really picky; go with denser stuff for the neck for strength.

I did have a customer request an 18 x 40 x 2 slab of Purpleheart for a 1-piece guitar. Thankfully, I didn't have it. That boatanchor would have weighed 20 lbs easy and the slab would be 40lbs. I did sell a 16.5 x 41 x 1.75 slab of Mahogany for this, though, so that fellow either has a 1pc guitar or a big piece of firewood :-) I still stand by the idea that it's less work (no joining, clamping, gluing, planing, etc). Just bandsaw your entire guitar body and neck shape. Recessing the bridge would be no biggie, just leave about 1/4" poking out from the top to clear the fretboard height and raise the saddles as necessary. One of these days, I'll build a 1pc Les Paul, for the sake of bragging rights and the fact that it makes sense from a building/tone perspective.

I am sorry I won't go with this idea. Looks a bit "too much" to begin with. But hey SoundAt11, aren't you an eBay seller ? No need for the rolling eyes icon. I've build a neck-thru with a recessed tunomatic, a 1-piece guitar would be less work as there's no joining involved. In fact, I posted the idea of a 2-piece guitar (ie 2 long wide boards joined down the center) as one of my first forum posts years ago and was shot down by everyone. And no, I don't consider my post a conflict of interest as yes, I do sell wood on eBay, but no, I do not have any Limba (or any wood) large enough for a 1-piece guitar. More customers buy Mahogany than Maple, Limba, or Basswood and I personally have 4 mahogany guitar bodies of my own, so I'm not just shilling product. Limba is better, on average, and costs the same. Quartersawn wood is the best bet for a neck and if you can find light enough pieces, is the choice for bodies (flatsawn being second choice).

I decided to extend the sale to 20% off for the rest of June.

Padouk does smell vaguely like Play-Doh and is pretty intense when you start sawing it (looks like you through a bag of Cheeto's in a mulcher). It has a habit of being an irritant, both to the skin and eyes (at least mine). It can be tough to tell the two apart if they're rough or haven't been sanded recently, but freshly planed Padouk is definitely orange (though clear coats make it look darker) and Bloodwood is very much blood red colored (clear coats really enhance that effect).

Looking good, sorta shaped like the Satriani Ibanez model. I especially like the rounded heel. I really hate the square heel on my strat and may need to sculpt it down like yours is.

Gotta admit, that Idigbo looks exactly like a few White Limba boards that have. How's the weight and tap-tone on it? Some tung oil or clear lacquer should bring out the natural beauty.

I don't find Limba to be any brighter than Mahogany, just a little clearer and resonant (sometimes, Mahogany sounds more stiff and compressed to me). I say go with the 1pc guitar idea. I've wanted to do this for a while. Alternatively, you could glue 2 pieces side-by side and be able to route your wiring channel on the inside of the joint before gluing it up. Main things to look for: Recessed or Flat-Mount bridge, due to the fretboard not being very high off the body. If you go with one piece, you'd need to drill your wiring holes creatively. My suggestion: Drill from the end strap hole all the way to the neck pickup cavity. Then connect your bridge pickup cavity to your control cavity by drilling from your jack location. Go with Quartersawn wood to make sure it stays stable.

Clear sustaining tone, density, and good looks are it's Pluses. Negatives would be it's course, open-pored feel. Great choice on the purpleheart and limba, btw, both are great tonewoods that match well. You might consider Wenge for the fretboard. Think of it as a darker looking version of Zebrawood, but it's a little smoother and has more bass to it.

Good luck :-) Wow, that curly Mahogany is gorgeous, make sure you keep some for yourself.

Still trying to clear out everything, so...... 20% OFF all Guitar Wood, 1 day only SALE at SoundAt11.com

20% OFF all Guitar Wood, 1 day only SALE at SoundAt11.com I need this wood gone, soon.

Hide Glue does not dry in "20 seconds" as one fellow said. As long as you've got your clamps in place and pieces ready to join, it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to clamp your pieces and it will take longer than that for the glue to cool and harden. It's also much easier to clean up, as it's "crumbly" when it squeezes out, so you can scrape it off with a knife. Some hot water or rubbing alcohol (and a knife) will clean off the rest of the excess. If I'm building a guitar for myself, it's hide glue all the way. If you're in a hurry, Titebond is quick and easy, but think how long you'll have that guitar and if the few minutes of time saved is worth the possible decrease in resonance (not to mention the lack of serviceability and it's difficult cleanup).

I must have missed this one. Sorry, I don't have any Walnut left in that length, though I do have some maple that length (including quartersawn) in my ebay store.