SoundAt11

I'll second the folks that say Bloodwood smells like Cinnamon, it does indeed: very spicy smelling, like no other wood. Looks wise, that wood looks almost oxidized with a whitish film on it. Padouk can do that. Bloodwood, if anything, just gets more orange-brown colored if it'd be sitting out in the sunlight too long.

The ones I've seen have run anywhere from $100 to $200. It's a labor-intensive process and it's certainly worth that much. I've refretted one neck myself. It works, but it ain't pretty :-P For a $100, you could buy a new Mighty Mite neck online with jumbo frets. I say that because I've got one from them and it's well made, stays in tune, has HUGE frets, sounds great, feels great, etc. Plus, you could sell off that Squire neck, I'm sure someone would be happy to have one with small frets.

Yep, just click on the link above. I've also a bunch of strips and neck and body pieces of Limba to list tomorrow.

Still trying to clear out everything and I don't think these high gas prices are helping sales. Just added a bunch of Mahogany that I found, as well as plenty of strips for Laminate necks and bodies, as well as a bit of Mahogany body wood. Slowly but surely, I'm clearing out a lot of wood that I've had for a while. Some of the really oddball sized pieces may be showing up soon. thanks for reading, Will http://www.soundat11.com

Still trying to clear out all of the wood I've got stashed away.... I've got a TON of strips listed this week: Mahogany, Limba, Walnut, Padouk, Zebrawood, and Wenge. Along with some Canarywood and Bloodwood. Anigre and Ash veneer (and Bubinga later this weekend). I hope to have a bunch of Maple strips listed this weekend, just need to plane them first and go through the whole measure, weigh, photograph, edit, list process. If anyone wants to buy several strips and would like me to glue it up into a ready-to-use laminate neck blank; I can (it'll cost extra, so ask me for a quote on that). http://www.soundat11.com I'm going to run a 10% off sale during the weekend, also, just need to figure out when (surprise) Will

Thanks, Tom, guys, still trying to clear out all of the wood I've got stashed away. I'm going to run a 10% off sale during the weekend, also, just need to figure out when (surprise) I've got a TON of strips listed this week: Mahogany, Limba, Walnut, Padouk, Zebrawood, and Wenge. Along with some Canarywood and Bloodwood. Anigre and Ash veneer (and Bubinga later today). I hope to have a bunch of Maple strips listed this weekend, just need to plane them first and go through the whole measure, weigh, photograph, edit, list process. If anyone wants to buy several strips and would like me to glue it up into a ready-to-use laminate neck blank; I can (it'll cost extra, so ask me for a quote on that). http://www.soundat11.com Will

Black/White/Black pickguard (only) from mid-90's American Standard Fender Strat. Normal SSS routes and 3 control holes and lever switch route. Back is shielded. In great shape, was briefly used, then replaced with aftermarket one and put away for the next decade. $20 shipped in US. White-covered Fender MIM Strat single coils (bridge, middle, and neck). Sound great and work, only problem is that the previous owner (a friend of mine) cut all the lead wire off (wish he'd asked me before doing that) when installing a set of replacement Duncans. You can still trim back the remaining wire and solder on some replacement wire or else just use them as dummy pickups like EVH did. Make an offer on these, shipping would be $5 in the US. CTS 500K SPST Long Shaft Pots purchased from Martin 6-string Customs. I've got 6 of them that are unused that I don't need anymore (I really need 500K Short-Shaft Push-Pull Pots). Just make an offer on those to (shipping will be cheap).

jer7440 and Matt, I wish, I've got some white and black Limba neck strips to list, but that's it. You won't go wrong with Limba, though, that stuff is great to work with. I've finally run out of the 500 board feet of it that I bought a year ago; at the time, it looked like I was building an all-limba house, I had so much. I usually refer people to Gilmer Hardwoods when I don't have what they need. Hey Rich, Thanks for the advice early on :-) Hey MK and Jon, I'm not too far from Dallas, so I might PM you some time to see where the good places to buy wood are. Hi Paul, The UPS man should be bringing you a present tomorrow :-)

Wowwwwww, That is extremely cool. The "flame" top is cool enough, then I see the inlay on the fretboard. The matching knobs and pickup ring are finishing touches, though, I'm glad that you took the time to do those and not use premade ones.

10% off EVERYTHING I have listed for Tuesday and Wednesday only. I will be adding new things to go with my current selection. Plenty of Neck, Body, and Top wood, plus Veneer and Glue. I'm quiting business and moving, so I need to clear out quickly http://www.soundat11.com Will

Nothing wrong with Poplar, I've had 2 Strat bodies made of it, both were lightweight and resonant. One was a true Fender American Strat body made when their Alder supply was low. It had killer tone and was super light. I definitely could nail all the cliche'd "Strat" sounds with it. You can definitely do better than a MIM body, just shop on ebay. There's tons of sellers with 2-pc Alder or Ash Strat bodies in the $100-150 range, some of them finished or offering custom routing. I just picked up an unfinished Strat one for $100 + shipping, 2-pc Alder with direct-mounted humbuckers, rear-routing, and a hard-tail. You won't find a Mexican (or American) Fender with those options (and certainly not at such a bargain).

Thanks, guys, I've really enjoyed people able to help fellow builders out and get to see the progress on the actual projects or hear how happy they are with the "product" (ie the wood, my packing, and my service). It's very fun and rewarding and I've been blessed virtually all nice and appreciative customers that are always nice to me. I always enjoy seeing repeat customers and I know I've sent several packages to all 3 of you....I start remembering user names and real names after a while. Alas, it's not particularly profitable as a full-time job, there's only so many potential customers in a limited market. The markup may look high, but by the time I got done doing my taxes this year, I only made about 1/5 of what I actually took in, so 4/5 of the costs get eaten up by Ebay fees, PayPal fees, equipment fees, packing supplies, wasted wood, unusable wood, then Uncle Sam takes his cut. That and it can be dangerous and hazardous to the health (I take a lot of precautions, though), but there's always those times when a piece of wood jams in a saw and your hands get too close to the blade. Plus the continued exposure to sawdust and woods that you may become allergic to (Cocobolo is my nemesis). So, I'm looking for a real job in an office (yikes!), but I enjoyed my year and half of freedom and fun and wish I could keep spending my days cutting up cool wood or surfing the 'net

I've got a small jug of Pure Tung Oil from Rockler (same size as the Mixwax or Formsby's tins at the hardware store). It does take a while to really soak up, even if you wipe it off quickly, it takes days to "sweat" out the remaining excess oil. It depends on the wood, though. Maple is done, almost instantly. More Porous woods like Mahogany or to a lesser extent, Alder, do need more time to air out. It does look quiet nice and if your an "all natural" type of person, than it gives the guitar some extra mojo. Otherwise, it provides a light sheen and a slight tint to the wood. Thinning pure tung oil can be a good idea. Some people might use Acetone or a similar harsh chemical. I'm more of a natural guy, so I use rubbing alcohol. It evaporates and isn't harmful (I work indoors).

Just a guess, but for some people, that are allergic to Cocobolo, would a hard finish make sense? Touching that wood makes me get itchy and my sinuses start acting up. But yeah, it's gorgeous wood (stinks, though).

I'm wandering what the whole beef with true Tung Oil is? It's definitely thick like syrup, but it works very well and smells nice to (no dangerous chemicals, either). I've used Rockler's Organic Tung Oil on Maple, Mahogany, Alder, and Canary. It looks great, though it does have a tint to it and does darken up the edges a bit (though the Woodburst Tung Oil I've used does the same thing). I like to rub it on the wood, let it soak in for a few minutes, then buff it all away. Leaves a nice sheen.

It's all gotta go..... http://www.soundat11.com I should have the remainder of my stock listed next week, down to even scraps. thank you to all my supportive customers Will

Thanks, guys, you can see why I really wanted to keep that blank for myself, it'd been on the shelf for a while :-) Orange-streaked Limba is the most awesome kind, even better, last spring I had some flamed orange-streaked Limba that was insane. It truly did have the "fire" look to it.

It's all gotta go..... http://www.soundat11.com I should have the remainder of my stock listed next week, down to even scraps. thank you to all my supportive customers kitarist.gif Will

Nice looking mahogany there, what brand is/was it?

Very nice Explorer, I feel for you on some of the issues with chiseling mahogany and wood tearout....and the dreaded recessing of the bridge and ferrules. My Ferrules came out terrible the first time, very crooked (I used to small of a bit and it wandered), so I had to route out the wood around the ferrules and make a replacement "plate" of wood to cover my mistake:-O A friend of a friend of mine did an angled neck-thru Bass with the Carvin neck-thru. My assumption is that he drew the angle into the blank and carefully cut it out with a bandsaw.

Any update?

I went with the Carvin neck-thru blank and like it. I use a Gotoh Nashville style Tune-o-matic and just routed a shallow recess for it in the top. No neck angle at all. It's no big deal, really......

I draw out the cutaways in pencil, then Dremil them out with the rotary sanding drum, then go back with a file and sandpaper to smooth them out.

Out of most of the Mahogany, but still have plenty of Maple and Basswood and Hide Glue. I just added some Ribbon-Striped Mahogany veneer and will be adding a lot of Limba neck blanks and some strips and tops next week.

Thanks, I'll try. Seeing as how I don't sell Purpleheart presently, I can be really objective about it: I LOVE IT! It's got a deeper and more resonant tone than Hard Maple and is a little easier to work with. Padouk is much easier to work with than Purpleheart or Hard Maple. It's more akin to Black Walnut in terms of workability. I prefer Purpleheart and Padouk to Hard Maple, If you like those but prefer Maple's smoothness, Bloodwood is smooth as possible. Padouk and Purpleheart are open grained (but still pretty slick feeling). Tonewise, Purpleheart and Bloodwood are very clear and bright sounding, but still resonant, so they shouldn't sound sterile.