SwedishLuthier

Some of those have to be angled too...

TNX unclej. Thats why we're here, init...

One possibility: Using a heavy plank and some spacers on each end, placed at the fret board side, and a clamp on the middle, you might be able to force the neck into a slight back bow. If this works, you might be able to get enough grip on fresh threads.

This is not an easy one! One thing you could do and the first thing I would try is the lowest viscosity CA. Use a pipette, and if you’re new to CA, practice or you will end up with a mess. Might even end up gluing yourself to the guitar… From the pictures it looks like the longer crack is actually two. The first one ends at the fret and the second is slightly offset from the first one. Might just be the picture... If so, the problem is not so big. Fill the cracks with CA and scrape of the mess. I’ve done a similar thing. You should also try applying some pressure using claps to close the cracks, if possible. When already glued to the neck, it might not work, but do a dry test first. If I misread the picture and it is one straight crack, I’m not sure if I would use the above method. At least I would have to be sure that I was able to close the crack at least some with clamps, before having a go at it.

I wind my own pickups, and I use http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...ckup_Tapes.html to wrap single coils for protection.

I've done the same thing, but I always forget that when adjusting, and starts turning the allen key the whrong way only to realise that I have to think the other way around after the first complete turn or so

According to the pics in the link it is a neck with a fretboard extension, so it will work fine

You actually NEED a little relief. If not, the strings will rattle against the frets like mad. How much relief you should have is a matter of personal taste and playing technique. Everything from 0.25 mm to almost 1 mm have worked fine for different customers. I have had customers demanding dead flat fret board (even after I have advised different) only to start complaining about rattling strings the moment they get the guitar back. So it’s back in to the shop and loosen the truss rod. Conclusion: You need relief, but nobody but yourself can say how much.

You should be able to shim the neck. It might be a thick one but it will work. You can even consider a tapered shim (wedge shaped). It might even be possible to adjust the saddles at the bridge. The picture doesn't show enough of the bridge to say for sure. And another thing. DO NOT use that measurements from Warmoth and ASSUME that they are the same as the Carvin. If in any doubt, sent Carvin a mail and ask for the measurements.

I use the Hot Rod from StewMac. Never had any problem with them.

OK I’ve done the test. I wound a strat pup and made up a jig that allowed me to suspend the pup over the strings on a strat between the original pups to decrease the influence of their magnetic fields). Over the pup (or under if the pup were to be mounted in a guitar) there were a piece of wood with steel inserts in one end. This piece can be mover, thus moving the inserts closer to/further away from the magnetic poles of the pup. The distance between the magnets and the steel were about 2mm, about the distance that I will use in the guitar to be. For amplification I had to settle with my guitar port, as my mesa rig isn’t available at the moment. So what’s the verdict? Moving the steel had a clearly noticeable effect on the sound. A quite drastic dip in treble, almost the same feeling you get when somebody is moving in front of a speaker! But that was when the steel was in motion (sliding the piece of wood). When the steel was in place the effect was very subtle. A slight decrease in treble was audible, but not much. The biggest difference I noticed was when the steel inserts were at a 45 degree angle from the magnets, or beneath/beside the magnets so to speak. But even in this position the change was not big. Now remember that this was done with very crude amplification, so I might have to repeat the test in my real rig sometimes soon. So for now I can say that my worries that the sound were going to be altered was right, but the effect was so small that I will probably just build the guitar with the steel inserts that I ordinary use. If a test with “the real thing” show any different results, I will post them here.

HB pups have a quite different magnetic field, more or less with two different sides, one upwards embracing the strings, and one downwards that would be affected by the steel inserts. A question: Does PRS use threaded steel inserts in the neck for those guitars? Do you know how they sound (compared with set neck versions of the same model, if there are any)? I have no clear opinion of how it will sound. I have only a few ideas and no hard facts. That why I asked from the beginning. No sound clips, sorry. But a Tele without steel plate will loose some of its famous high end twang. Removing the plate makes a more unidirectional magnetic field and less high end bite. A piece of steel under the magnets of a strat pup might focus some of the magnetic field downwards (creating longer magnetic poles when the inserts become part of the magnetic structure), away from the strings. This MIGHT attenuate the high end response in the same manner as a steel plate beneath enhancing it. But I don’t know for sure. Pure speculations… Not touching, but in CLOSE proximity. The picture I drew was just a “quickie” Yeah, I know, but I’m sooo happy with the way my current design works (ten years without any complaints), so I’m not to keen on changing it. Brass is my second option, if 1 the sound is altered in the test 2 I cannot find stainless steel inserts The test is on its way. The rig is built, the flatwork for the pup is finished (yeah, I do my own flatwork for pups) and I will wind the pickup tonight. Tests result within a day or two

As always good advices from you idch. I'll try that.

OK that’s true. There are steel beneath the pickups, but not directly beneath. If you compare the distance to those steel parts you are referring to and the way I might have to build this guitar (look at the picture) there is a significant difference. If you are familiar with the laws of physics the magnetic field decrease a lot with distance. If I remember my university physics correct they decrease with the square of the distance. So the impact of a chunk of metal right beneath the pup will affect the sound much more, but I do not know in what way, and that’s why I started the thread. Hey, it might actually contribute to the sound! Now we’re getting somewhere!! What guitars? Do they have traditional wood screws/neck plate, or do they have the type of steel inserts that I use? What are the distance between the pups and the steel parts? Did you have a look at the Steven Kersting link? It shows how the magnetic field BELOW the pup is changed with the Tele steel base plate. And everyone knows that a Tele-pup sounds different if the steel plate is removed/added. BTW how would you wave a something under a pickup in an ordinary guitar? Have anyone made/heard of comparisons between guitars with similar pups, but with/without metal beneath the pups in the way I describes? I haven’t but I was hoping that someone already had made the tests that I’m preparing. I have designed the test rig “in my head”, and will start the building today. It will have a SC pup mounted in a wooden frame, suspended above a strat. The rig will have a sliding piece of wood above the pup (opposite side from the strings). The slider will have steel inserts in one. By sliding the piece of wood I will hear EXACTLY what impact the steel will have on. Nevertheless it will take a few days to do the test, but I will publish the result here. And for the record: I'm not sure the sound will change, but I prefer to know what will happen before I go on with the customers design

PM me. You’re right; I'm trying to come up with something foolproof. But then again fools are very inventive… As I wrote I have had a lot of guitars in the shop with over tightened neck screws. The cost isn’t the main problem if I can use standard hardware items available. A few bucks, and 1/2 hour more work at most. I’ll test it and get back. Better start up the winder tonight…

The torx will enable the USER to APPLY much higher torque on the screw compared to an ordinary screw head. This torque will put a lot more pressure on the threads. This pressure might destroy the threads on a brass insert. I have considered using brass inserts, but I have used steel inserts for more than 10 years and, if possible, prefer to stay with them. Call me unadventurous… That’s simply not true. I have had numerous guitars in my shop where the screws have been over tightened (and that’s an easy thing to do) and the holes had to be filled and redrilled. This is a standard operation for most repairmen, and you will it on most of our prise lists, including mine. The man has a point! Any change will be margial. Look at steel pickup rings....same deal. ← Steel screws under single coil pickups? I may have missed something but I have never seen it! A singe coil is made out of vulcanised fibre sheets (non magnetic), copper windings (non magnetic) and magnetic rods (magnetic). The screws are placed on the side of the magnetic field, not under, directly into the fibre. No metal at all UNDER the pup. And yeas, the humbucker use a metal plate under the coils, but it is made out of non magnetic material. The Tele bridge pup has a steel (magnetic) plate under the magnet rods, and everybody knows that removing this have a HUGE effect on the sound. I have tried this. Also: Change from a steel base Tele bridge to a brass, and you WILL notice a difference in sound. I have tried that too And remember that the bushings are no small piece of metal, like a pickup screw. They are about ½” wide and about the same length. Quite a lot of magnetic material, and much bigger then the magnetic rods themselves. What I think is that this steel would probably direct the magnetic field down and away from the stings quite a lot if placed directly against the magnetic rods. Anyway it will affect the magnetic field in one way or another. I don’t think we need to debate this. The question is how much that would affect the sound. For those of you that doubt the effect of steel under magnetic rods, pls have a look at the link to Steven Kersting’s FEMM simulations of magnetic fields in pups. Now I will of cause have some distance between the rods and the inserts. The magnetic field decrease quite a lot with distance so a larger distance between the rods and the inserts will consequently lessen the impact. As I said, I will run a couple of tests and get back with the results.

Oink, oink idch<_< My screws are non magnetic stailess with torx heads. if you have tried 6mm stainless torx screws you know that they will put an enourmous force on the threads on the nut. Brass IS a solution but i would like to avoid it if possible for this reason. I’m not shure if steel inserts will focus the magnetic field or if it will actually do the opposite. The customer has his mind set on some very ecpensive John Suhr pups, and I do not want to alter their sound. I will make a jig to test what effect those steel inserts will have. I will also try to neutralise the possible effect by inserting steel plates to direct the magnetic field up around the strings, so that the inserts will have a minor impact on the sound. And yeas, it is possible to shape the magnetic field. That is what the steel plate under the Tele bridge pup does. Compare the FEMM simulations on Steven Kerstings page regarding the A5 rods and the A5 rods with steel base plate. The only thing that differs is the steel plate and the magnetic field actually takes on a quite different shape. What are the effects on the sound? Well I will have to try it. I'll get back when I have tested it

Heres a pic: See what I mean? The oval lines represent the magnetic field, and with the design we are planning we might end up with something similar with this picture. You can see the steel inserts interfering with the magnetic field. And remember that it isn't my design, it’s my customers… Thanks for the link idch. Actually it got me MORE convinced that steel under the pup will change the sound. The small chunks of metal will actually be quite large and MAYBE have to be placed directly under the magnetic poles of the pup. I’m not very keen on inserting steel inserts in one of my guitar. I’m thinking of making a test rig with two pups mounted in some scrap wood, held upside down over the strings of any guitar, and one having steel inserts beneath and one not. Did anyone at all understand that? For some interesting facts about pups and how the shape of the magnetic fields change the sound look here and here At the end I might have to convince the customer to change the design, but it would be much more fun to be able to fulfil his wishes 100%.

I’m on a budget on this project. I would like to actually EARN some money for a change… Anyway I will check the cost to get those made. Thanks for the tip. But I still would like to know if someone has used magnetic steel in close proximity (not in contact with) of the rod in a strat pup.

I use the same type, but steel. Couldn't find any pics of the type I use. I'm using stailess steel bolts, so the bolts will not affect the magnetic field. I have thought about using something like the weld nuts, but I haven't been able to find Stainless steel weld nuts on this side of the atlantic. Does anyone have a good source for it?

I got a customer that wants an AANJ type neck joint on a Strat. He also wants it moved as far into the body as possible. Now the problem: I always use this type of STEEL neck inserts and machine type screws. If I use this on the guitar for my customer it will mean that the inserts might end up beneath the neck pickup. The inserts is made of MAGNETIC (not magnetically charged) steel. My concern is that a piece of steel in close proximity of the pup magnets will change the shape of the magnetic field, and thereby change the sound of the pup. Does anyone have any experience of this? Will this change the sound of the neck pickup? A few notes: No, the customer will not accept a set neck or neck-through. No, I don’t want to use brass inserts, because my neck screws is made out of stainless steel (torx type screw heads) and I’m afraid that someone might over tight the screws and destroy the bras threads No I have not found stainless steel insets (not magnetically material) I would appreciate some help from anyone with experience from this.

Looks good for a first one. A litle to low in power for bigger jobs, like Robosanders and so on.

I got an old artist from around the same time, the one with IBZ/Dimarzio pups, and carved top and back. Great guitar, but I have to many, so if you want to give me an offer... Seriously, if nothing else works out, I could draw you the dimensions and send to you. It will take some time to reach you across the Atlantic, but If you have the time to wait… PM me if you want me to do it. The main dimensions are: Waist with: 19.0 cm Lower bout with: 32.7 cm Neck joint to end of body: 35.3 cm Body thickness at edge: 3.0 cm Body thickness at middle of body: 5.5 cm

Amasing! And I've never heard of those guys! For those of you that doesn't read swedish: The floyd Rose costed almost 1400$. I don know the source for the Floud, but I got the impression that it is a custom made one-off from a mashine shop, rather than one of the ordinary makers

I rout all the way, but I'm plain lazy... Have seen it done my way, but covered up with a head weneer, but I think the drill-version is neater. Might try that the next time