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komodo

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Everything posted by komodo

  1. komodo
    So here's my question, with a regular TOM, shouldn't 4.5 degrees be enough? I think a Les Paul is 3.5 degrees? So what's going on here?
  2. komodo
    Very nice! How do you like those new signature tri-sonics? Also if you don't mind me asking, how much was the hardware from our forum member? I've been working on a design based on a Red Special, but blending in one of my own designs. Oh yeah, how does it sound?
  3. komodo
    Here's my take (and believe me, I've thought a lot about this topic): WezV is right. Get to 10, and by then your business should start developing naturally. It certainly doesn't hurt to have a plan now, and to aim for it. Think about this: would you pony up 2-3k for a guitar, even if it looked really nice, if you knew the guy had only built that ONE? I'd certainly have reservations, no matter how sweet the work was. And as many have said in here before, it doesn't make sense to have an idea that you can make a lot of money doing this. Of course you COOOUUULD, but that isn't what you should be aiming at right now.
  4. komodo
    Now THAT is a pointy guitar!
  5. komodo
    Oh that kicks butt, thanks a bunch.
  6. komodo
    Whoops, changed the design slightly after doing a CAD mockup and don't need the Black MOP, only Gold in the same dimensions. Anyone have a small amount to sell or trade? Don't need anything more than 1-2 pieces each. Ideally, 1 piece Gold MOP around 1"x2", and 1 piece Gold MOP at 1"x1". Actually 2 of each might be nice in case i screw something up. Shoot me a price, or stuff you need if you want to trade. Thanks! Jeff "komodo"
  7. komodo
    You could also do a super crazy long fretboard, fret it to have 30 frets . . . or just extended and maybe do a cool shape on the end and some inlay.
  8. komodo
    I've done similar, by doublestick taping down a run of sandpaper on my table saw, then sandwiching the tops and carefully sanding the edge. if you tip it either way (easy to do) it's not as accurate. Also using a jointer plane, and using the table saw method. One of the best ever, is to clamp down your top with a 1/8" gap, then clamping another straightedge as a guide and using a 1/4" router bit down the seam. Any imperfection in the straightness is mirrored on the opposite piece and they fit together perfectly. You can actually route a wavy line and they fit perfectly.
  9. komodo
    Why don't you use the flat metal mounts, enlarge them opening and then bend to the radius? If not, make one from wood (ebony) or out of another material?
  10. komodo
    Made me laugh. Trust rod. I love it. It's not wholly wrong, there is a bit of trust in there . . .ask anyone who has stripped the threads or broke the nut off.
  11. komodo
    Wow. This is a SUPER tight design. REALLY nice.
  12. komodo
    That's pretty cool for a pointy guitar. I would be careful with the arm carve so it doesn't throw off the design. You may want to consider a simple bevel on parts or all of the front. But you can see that you are approaching the design from a total perspective. I am not that fond of reverse head stocks, but i thin i prefer that over the down turned one. If it were mine I would consider doing a reverse, but shallower angle sort of like ESP's. Nice!
  13. komodo
    The StewMac blade with the table saw is the way to go. You don't NEED stabilizers, but I had them and used them anyway. Even better. I have used StewMacs templates with the pin, and have also printed out fretboard templates using FretFind and then "freehand" by lining them up. If you print them out, and you are doing a fanned fret, make sure that you have the template flipped mirror image before you cut . . .;-)
  14. komodo
    Sure, I'm building two minis right now. They are 19" scale, mini versions of a design I am also building full size for myself. Really i always thought the little Chiquitas, and the mini Les Pauls were cool and wanted one just to screw around on in the shop. My son also wants to learn to play, and I thought about getting one of those micro Ibanez but figured I'd make one myself. I am sort of using it as a testbed as well. Brian May also has a new mini out, the MiniMay. hehehe It's SUPER cool.
  15. komodo
    If Frank Pollaro did it, that's all that needs to be said. That guy is a veneer master. I love every single thing that guy does in woodworking.
  16. komodo
    Try the open back Sperzels. The only place I could find them was TKinstruments.
  17. komodo
    I love the whole thing. Doing a LP style fanned is awesome, and to do the trap inlays is even cooler. I'm not a huge fan of maple fretboards though. I think this is almost perfect and would be with an ebony board and MOP inlay. The tweaked shape is cool too. Can't wait to see this one progress . . .
  18. komodo
    Thanks so much for your clear instruct and advice. I won't go this route on this one (no pun intended) for a few reasons: I tried a few variations in the CAD version and just didn't like the total combo. My quilt top is so nice I am using restraint everywhere else to balance it and not make it over the top. There is another in the works that WILL use an abalone purfling just as you described, only inset inside the body a bit. I could always change my mind, I do it about every 5 seconds. I am just going to call this one done as far as design and get it built. Believe me, I am not cutting any corners!
  19. komodo
    Ya I was kinda thinking that. I have a straight maple top and was going to do a simple one layer black binding . . . thought I could dress it up slightly by going b/w/b and the one step further by making it more MOP or Pearloid in the center . . .guess I'm mixing up binding and purfling . . . I do know of the Teflon strips you speak of. Think I'll keep it simple and go one strip of black.
  20. komodo
    Does anyone sell a b/p/b laminate? Also, would such a sandwich show the pearloid effect on it's edge? I was thinking around a .020/.040/.020 or something like that. Maybe .030 all around. I was interested in getting a kind of thin black around a MOP type look, and would just go ahead and do the MOP, but this would be much easier. Maybe I can get some Abalam MOP strips? Any ideas? THNX!
  21. komodo
    Thanks guys! Huge help. Can't wait to show you what I'm working on.
  22. komodo
    Let me rephrase my question : Are you guys who use CYA just putting enough on to stick it down? Or covering the binding as you would Titebond on a wood joint?
  23. komodo
    Heya Drak . . .I need to jump in here. I am about to do a binding and bought binding glue and tape to use, but am intrigued by the CYA method. I have some of the really tall binding to use around the neck join and inside bouts and wonder how you spread the CYA without sticking your fingers? I will have a pretty decent amount of surface area plus the bottom edge to get covered. komodo
  24. komodo
    Don't forget that when resawing anything, the real key is to GO SLOW. 2-3 tpi works best for most applications IMHO.
  25. komodo
    FYI everybody - Here is another one that was not nearly as expensive as some options, has some great pluses, still requires a table mounted router which for me would be a dedicated router (plus some kind of bit jack). http://www.guitarpartscentral.com/routehou...e=Guitar_Parts_
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