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guitar2005

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Everything posted by guitar2005

  1. guitar2005
    So I tried gluing the last two fretboards using a straightedge (completely flat and solid surface) and when everything has set and the clamps are removed, the surface is still not 100% flat even though the neck and fretboard were 100% flat (within 0.001"). I guess that trueing up the fretboard surface after glueup is inevitable. Regardless, after carving the neck profile, there's been enough movement to warrant flattening the fretboard.
  2. guitar2005
    Ouch! That's is pretty scary. In terms of the hot rod, I never used it because of the extra depth and special size. I did order one a while back and I just gave it away. I'm currently working on a couple of necks and ordered 6 of the Allied Lutherie rods. They're very well made and I can just route the channel with a standard 1/4" cutter (I use an up spiral bit). I was previously using those blue coated eBay dual truss rods but these from Allied are better quality.
  3. guitar2005
    +1 The proper way to do this would be to slice off 1/16" off the body, plane/sand smooth both sides (body + slice). Then, you have a body and matching wood for cavity covers. That make sense?
  4. guitar2005
    Cool. Thanks!
  5. guitar2005
    Does anyone have an Ibanez AANJ equipped guitar with 24 frets? I need the distance from the last fret (24th) to the end of the fretboard. Is it something like 7/16"
  6. guitar2005
    Yes. The cheaper enclosed toggle switches tend to that after a while.
  7. guitar2005
    Where did I mention that the fingerboard is flat? The radius has been pre cut before I glue the board you can clearly see on the pictures that the fingerboard surface has a radius... The neck however must be flat on both surfaces since its down to final dimention... The neck is jointed and PERFECTLY flat on the fretboard side (in my builds). The carve side is usually flat, but not necessarily within 0.001", you know what I mean? Do you true up both sides? If so, this technique would work, otherwise, you should clamp fretboard facing the flat surface.
  8. guitar2005
    One thing that comes to mind with this technique. When you place the flat reference surface UNDER the neck, you're assuming that both sides of the neck are jointed and perfectly flat. I always joint the fretboard gluing surface only and that is my reference. There's no point in jointing both surfaces since the other side will be carved out anyways. Ideally, you'd want to glue the fretboard with the fretboard facing your reference surface, not the other way around, unless you joint both surfaces.
  9. guitar2005
    No, you can't shim the bottom of the bridge to achieve lower action... think about it or better yet, draw it out.
  10. guitar2005
    Well... the problem is that if you're too low, you may not be able to get the action at a comfortable level (low enough). do you know what the lowest saddle height is on your bridge? If its 5/16", you should be ok.
  11. guitar2005
    The neck heel should be 1/8" proud of the body (not counting the 1/4" fretboard). I cant see the pocket gaps. Is it that its not routed straight?
  12. guitar2005
    Both of those necks are very nice. Good work! That's too bad that under tension, you loose clearance in the higher registers. If you put a straight edge along the neck while under tension, can you measure (with a feeler gauge) 1) relief at the 7-8th fret 2) check that the higher frets are not coming up towards the strings 3) chek the nut slot depths. When you fret at the second fret, what is the clearance between the 1st fret and the bottom of the string?
  13. guitar2005
    You're showing the outer side of the cab. the 1-1/2" width is most probably achived with a 3/4" trim piece around the edges. The plywood (or whatever they used) is most probably 3/4"
  14. guitar2005
    Really? You sure its not the edge treatment that makes it look like its 1-1/2 all around. At 1-1/2", that 4x12 would be way too heavey to haul around to gigs.
  15. guitar2005
    I'll have to watch it for heat build up though.
  16. guitar2005
    At this point, I'm thinking belt sander.
  17. guitar2005
    Shinto saw rasp. I'll have to look that up. I guess that a finishing file and belt sander could tidy it up.
  18. guitar2005
    taking off 1/16" seems like a lot to me, especially with metal. I just like the look of a recessed trem cover. Has anyone here actually done this with good results?
  19. guitar2005
    Nah, I don't want to dress up the back because its going to be solid anyways. I could just make the back plate non-recessed but I don't like that look. If you cut the block by hand, would it not be uneven? I guess that the trem can have the block removed for easier modification? From your post, It sounds like you remove the block from the plate, cut on the plate side of the block and re-install but hopefully, the screws can still go in full depth. I'd be taking off maybe 1/16", 3/32" at the most.
  20. guitar2005
    How does one shorten the block? I know that the Ibanez edge trem has two different blocks - short block for guitars where the trem is recessed and a regular block for non-recessed trems. Perhaps I can just buy a sort block?
  21. guitar2005
    When installing the wilkinson trem, it appears to me as though the body thickness must be at least 1-3/4" thick or you run the risk of not having enough room between the trem springs and the cavity plate. I have a body that is just under 1-3/4" thick, recessed trem route cover and with the trem against the body, the springs touch. I guess that with the neck installed and the action set, the trem would be higher but still very close. Has anyone here built a Wilkinson VS100 equipped guitar with a body thickness of less than 1-3/4? I'm thinking that maybe the block can be cut but that would be overkill, no? might as well just re-do the back of the guitar with a veneer/cap to bring it up to proper thickness.
  22. guitar2005
    I didn't say tightly closed - I said that the back panel needs a center post so that it doesn't move too much and cause the woofing sound you're complaining about. At band volumes. that back panel will move a lot if there's no center post.
  23. guitar2005
    Closed back cabs are usually tight. Perhaps the flubbyness is in the speakers, or maybe the back panel is not resting on a center post?
  24. guitar2005
    Marshall uses something like 1/2" baltic birch ply. I forget the exact measurement in mm.
  25. guitar2005
    FYI - I learned that the StewMac lacquer is made by Target Coatings and is based on their EM6000 finish with slight formulation differences. I think I'll be trying the EM6000 product as I can order it from within Canada.
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