krazyderek

lol, i just couldn't make out his translation, i had a pretty good idea of what he was talking about there. I used to worry about such problems, but i'm young so meh...... shred now, pay later.... lol no seriously i try to remember to warm up, but it's hard, i usualy just plam mute some metal songs to get my right hand going, then run up and down some neck long sweeps to get the left moving, and i actually ach if i try and go to fast to soon, but once i get going!!!!!! mmmmm shredderiffic!!!!! speed trick.... the 1-2-3-4 trick is always anoying to make ur parents listen to, u play those 4 frets alternate picking on each string, then 2-3-4-5, 3-4-5-6, so on so forth allllllll the way up the fret board, then go backwards all the way back 24-23-22-21, 23-22-21-20...... by the time u get back to the nut, ur warmed up. do it for 40 mins and u'll notice immediate speed improvements. all it's doing is sinking ur 2 hands up which u need to sound good when ur trying to do a vai, or gilbert run... another one is alternate pick a sweep scale as fast as u can (starting slow) and try to control urself then gradualy allow ur hands to move faster, and try not to get into sweeping for as long as possible... when i was in high school and i did alot of weights for sports teams, i found it made my forarms waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to tight and i couldn't play for ours after working out (yes i stretched before and after practices) but that's just me... i like to have loose forearms when playing.

isn't wood glue supposed to be stronger then the actual wood in most cases? i thought i heard a couple of u guys saying something like that? Well here's a McGuiver solution for ya. if ur neck fits in there like an OJ simpson glove (and i mean good) then glue'er up, use the neck screws to keep the neck in there tight while the glue sets, then take them out drill the holes a bit bigger,and shove some dowels in there glue those in place and snip of the excess and sand flush, now take away what u feel u need to from the heel, but since the major glue surface is going to be on the horizontal plane of the pocket and not the walls, ur going to be kinda limited. u can just kinda round it down and bit without the worries of the screws. But no promises on weather or not this will hold that's got to be good enough for a wanker of the week nomination!! (my recomendation)

hmmm that didn't make a whole lot of sense to me

binding, is considered a "luxury" and it's kind of a pain to do a good job on it. and also makes fretting wonderfully fun too, Floyds, well.. there's 200$ right there.. i could get a lo pro floyd licsence for 60$CAN ... but the real floyds cost about 250$.... so like i said.... there's 200$ right there. U have to pay someone to find all that quatersawn wood u know, it doesn't just dance around saying "hello mr guitar builder guy, i'm a quality peice of wood!! USE ME!" and just cause it's quatersawn doesn't mean it's fit for a high quality guitar, it has to have no warps, bends, knots, chips, or rott.... like the other guys said, neck thru takes more time and planing to build, and they're also harder to work with. ebony is about twice as expensive as rosewood.... then u have to pay all the people that do all the work, like they said before, american wages are much higher then say japan or korea, and on top of alllllllllllllll that, the company has to make enough profit to stay up to date with all they machinery wear and tear, and on top of, on top of that.... they have to make a profit to stay in buisness.

swing sander? and who's we sigsuhr?

stew mac sells a plexi glass "depth guide" for they're saws, but u can easily rig one up oof a peice of plexi glass (god i love that stuff) then once u do get the slots made intialy, radius the neck and resaw the fret slots if needed with this little add on, thus ensuring ur saw will go the perfect depth in all areas (if u set it up right) as far as cutting the slots, i have one of those stew mac fretting miter boxes, i'm still trying to get that damn thing to cut perfectly square.

how exactly would u use a compound radius sanding block? as soon as u move it to start sanding ur changing the area on the fretboard that's being compounded... unless u made a 20 inch sanding block and only moved along the length of the fingerboard by about 1/4 of an inch.. but that might take a while unless... u only sanded one way.... but then ur going to flatten the 10" radius section with the 16" radius section of the sanding block.. and vise versa.... ya.... that wouldn't work, unless u sanded side to side, instead of up and down the fingerboard.... but... that souns kinda stupid doesn't it ya, i'm still stumped as to how warmouth does it unless they just have it programed into a CNC machine in which case they're cheating

that's what i did on a neck, it's still not done though, i did the whole thing in 16, then the nut-4th in 10, then used my 12 and 14 blocks along with a straight edge to level out the middle of the neck till it was just right. I'd say it's quite a bit more work.

meh.. the nylon's are to slippery IMO i could never really get used to them, i've been using these 2 for years, dunlop gators, and dunlop delrin, both in the 0.96-1.5 range

what brand are u leaning towards? what kind of style do u play? the 2 big ones (duncan and dimarzio) both have charts for all they're pickups. but here a few sujjestions, dimarzio HB- tone zone, breed, super distortion. duncan HB- invader, trembucker, livewire metal hum, seymourized Based on the Eq charts those are the ones that favore more the Bottom end. As for the single coil in the neck, that's even more open to preference.... could be anything really. but u'll probably want to lean towards "jazz" or the one before that, neck pickups to balance with all the low end in the bridge. GL! happy hunting!

ya i only play 25.5 ... hmmm i wanted to do a non angled neck so i could get some fingerboard blanks out of the smae peice of wood.... but that angle is starting to look nicer and nicer....

all very true.... i guess i'm just more comfortable working with plexi... i find i can be more precise with it... but i doo wish i had some 1/4 inch... anyways i'm thinking if i put the size 90 degree blocks close enough, that it should support it well enough.. the plexi glass will also allow me to see everything that's going on, so i think i'm going to make a regular circle one for normal hand routing jobs.

i just did a little math..... unless i grinded down the little allen screws that support each saddle, there's going to be a 0.209" action on the guitar, and that's with ultra high jumbo frets. So if i either sink the bridge into the guitar 0.2" or leave a 3/16" rise for the fingerboard i should be ok. Course now i've started thinking "well, i don't own an angled neck guitar, and it would be nice to try one out

plywood would seem to deep and i might not have enough of the bit sticking out for the full range of motion.. and it seems a bit to i duno.. in precise... i can always do it out of wood if the plexiglass isn't strong enough

niiiiice skills there LGM , actually u read my mind, i just got some materials to do just that. I just baught some industrial plexi glass that's 3/16 thick (the thickest they had at home depot) and i'll make the new baseplate out of that, and just leave some wings on it to screw into two blocks of wood to hold the router at 90 degrees just lik u have here (instead of triangles i'll have big blocks) think that'll hold'er?

sorry if that's double posting, but didn't look like it got much traffic... any help? the best i can come up with is to make another faceplate for the bottom that extends out on both sides so u can screw it into 2 blocks of wood...

thanks for all the answers guys G_urr_A -> it's a strat style hardtail bridge (the best kind if u ask me) if i was using a floyd i know what ur thinking, i could just rout the cavity a bit deeper into the guitar. but then i'd have to do the same with the pickups, and they're rings... And i'm already doing a guitar like that, take a look HERE . BUT, i think i've came up with an idea how to rout the top of the guitar (instead of planning it) and to leave the area under the FB so that it's higher then the body. I'll be sure to take lots of pics and see if brian wants it for a tutorial. (thisis going to be one monster jig)

ya, i remember seeing that on the new video tour larrivee did!! he seemed so pastionate about it too!,

" The router is attached to the sled by it's edge guide, using one of the edge guide bars inserted through it's channel in the router base, and through two corresponding holes in the sled " what if ur router doesn't have these kinds of attachments?

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So i'm cutting all the blanks up for a neck thru guitar, body wings, neck, and i got my peice of zircote 1x3 and i'm about to cut it into 3 fingerboard blanks but i don't know if i'm supposed to cut it into 3/8 thickness, or the standard 1/4? Keep in mind i don't want to do an tilted back neck. So i think my only 2 options are, 1/4 thickness, but then when i'm planing my body blank i'm going to have to somehow leave the area under the fingerboard 1/8 higher then the body which should be fun to try and make a jig for since i don't have a pin router. Or go with a 3/8 thick fingerboard, but i'm concerened that's going to look way to thick, and it's also going to push the truss rod deaper into the neck, which would be bad if i try and contour the back of the neck for a super slim wizard profile.

one of my guitars has H/S it's pretty nice, good balance i think, depends what pickups u pick out, and how u wire them though http://members.accesswave.ca/~derekn/squirestrat.jpg i like it cause single coils, or mini humbuckers tend to haveless bottom end, which is good in the neck and the bridge is a less bassy position, so a bigger bassier humbuker works a bit better, together they balance pretty nicely

either paint job has been done, and both look fine. Have u considered using a maple veneer and just bend it over the arms rest? or is this going to be a carved top guitar?

cool, got it now , looks fairly complexe.... hmm... i can see myself screwing this up pretty easily but i'll definitly give it a try thanks dude! btw, what size cutter bit are u using ½ inch diameter? i'm guessing the more narrow the bit, the more precise the radius is going to be, so narrower, would be better?

ebay isn't that great for tools, u usualy get hit up when they add on the shipping costs like.... 36 for a drill press.... ouch.. no wounder it's only 25$ for buy it now. U might be able to find a better deal around ur home, just make sure u always shop around.