krazyderek

just posted a tour in the classifieds section.. it's here in dartmouth (halifax) nova scotia canada.

East Cost Specialty Hardwoods tour My local hardwood supplier, thought i'd share, i can post prices if you see a wood you've been looking for, those are only a couple pics of the species.. they have many more hard to find woods, post questions for a price.

30$ US +shipping for 5 feet of 1x4 riftsawn, no crown very little bend in the wood if at all. rough 1-1/8"

rout the whole thing to a constant depth so it's nice and clean, then cut a peice of wood like ebony, wenge, purple heart, anything really hard, and take your time, make sure it fits fairly snug, to the point where you ALMOST have to force it in... then put in some titebond, let set for a couple of days, then rout your truss rod again..... so it just looks like a skunk stripe once you've contoured the back of the neck.

never heard back from you sjaguar13, what marshall head is it? and you mean 400$ for the marshall head and marshall cab ?

agreed, from what i've seen at sears craftsman isn't really "la creame de la creame" of economically priced band saws.... save up a bit and hunt for a real deal..

no don't be scared, yes it's fairly common, make slow/ minor adjustments at a time, and keep track of what you've done (ie: one half turn, three quarter turns) so that you can always return back to where you were if you need to start over. there's a great setup tutorial on the main page, aswell as one i beleive on the jemsite, that tell you what to look for in the neck when adjusting the truss rod.

just another reason i used purple heart on my neck thru

indeed wes.... i'm sure floyd rose would be interested in this individuals auctions if he plans on selling more then one or two of those... i'm pretty sure he's not allowed to say "new style speedloader" in his title.. For starters the saddles are completely different, speedloader saddles let you pop the string in and out easily, his model requires you do feed the string thru a tiny little pole... good luck if that's a set of strings that's already been installed once, even for a couple of minutes, the ends will be way to hard to feel thru those little holes. Also you'll have to unwind the string all the way off the tuner before you can remove the string from the bridge.... speedloader saddles just pop up letting you slide the string off and just unhooop it from the tuner, hence SPEEDloader... and yes, fender bullets are the exact same strings as the speedloaders minus one of the balls ends... so hypothecially you could get a speedloader, and use a regular floyd nut (which i can easily swap for a speed loader nut), and just use a set of bullet strings.. lastly... so.... he wasn't actually going to include them when he said it the first time?? or do you get a misc set that don't fit aswell as the correct set of hex wrenchs?

my uncle's 80's ibanez classical has a tuner built into the preamp control on the side of the guitar aswell...

interesting.... last week everyone said they suck

i think we covered that one day, might want to try running a search or checking satch's site...

both, the 85 is fatter, BUT different pickup + wood combinations yeild different sounds, depending on where the guitars predominant frequencies are, and where the pickup is designed the capture sound the greatest..... i think your white guitar tends to have better mids then your black guitar, and your black guitar has a bit of a fatter low end... which would explain what you just said, and your just not listening close enough.....

all necks have a "fretboard" weather or not it's a seperate peice of wood that's glued on or not doesn't change what it is, just different construction methods. In order to install a truss rod in a one peice maple neck, since you don't have a removable fingerboard to rout under the only logical alternative is that you have to rout from the other side of the neck, the back. Hence the skunk strip on tele necks. I've never done a skunk stripe, or any type of rear routed truss rod so i'll leave that to someone that has. and my tele body is 1.85" thick (47mm) with finish on it.

ok looks like i missed the ball on this one but... emg 85 has a great beefy low end, and still has lots of fuzz to shred with, it's my pickup of choice in the bridge right now..... Korn plays PAF 7's just for everyones information.... and no you don't need a "chunky" pickup to get the low end on a baritone, if you read some of the descriptions of the 7 string pickups on the dimarzio site, you'll see the most of the troubles about adding that low B string is trying NOT to make it sound muddy, hence tooo much low end, so i totaly agree with people saying to use less bassy pickups then guitars.... think about it.... guitars have this wimpy little strings... most poeple will only go as heavy as 52-10's... plus Standard E doesn't have a whole lot of "bottom end", so they need chunky pickups to be able to draw as much low end from them.... baritone strings are 63-13, right away you've got a much bigger string giving you a deeper sound, then throw in that you're tunned down to B and you've got loads of low end to play with... you don't really need a pickup that's going to exagerate them any more then a standard pickup... sorry if i repeated anyone here....

that neck blank from stew mac isn't the correct size for angled back headstock, only for flat fender style headstocks. A Scarf joint is the most economical way to do angled back heastocks and wasts pretty much no wood at all, but it's also the hardest to do IMO, if you search the forum you'll find more then a couple threads where we talked about scarf joints, and how to do them. Even if you were to cut that peice of wood to do a scarfe joint i think it would have to be a tad longer. And finaly the neck blank only needs to be as wide as your headstock

very lightly....rosewood doesn't need much very lightly...got it, thanks again guys VERY lightly, i did the same thing as TSL my first time around, only i was doing the back of the neck aswell, that thing was sticky and mucky feeling for almost a month, but it's my favorite neck now so LIGHT coats! PS i love the smell of double boiled linseed oil.. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

wow, now that's really good, such a "why didn't i think of that?" idea although jehle's idea sounds funny too... heh, just cause it's velcro!!!!! lol hahahha...

so you didn't really notice the G until after you fretted? cause you could have just kept going with it... like this.. Of course it will still easily pass as a cursive "G" interesting work, i'm not crazy about hte colour of the headstock, but it will of course depend on the body colour and/or if you're painting it/both...

Just to remind everybody, unless you're routing something really soft like basswood, and you have a drill press handy, it's always a good idea to pre drill your routs, the deeper the rout the more i would recommend this.

did you use the stain and sand back to get to that colour black ? or is that just one or 2 coats of the stain just applied??

i think it's closer to 12-1/4" to 12-3/4" finished, at least on my strat and tele, aswell as a jem, but for that figure, i suppose you could shrink the lower bout of the guitar a bit EDIT: What i mean is though, for 400$ you want a peice that is going to yeild you the best amount of tops possible without having to go dicking around with guitar shapes...

very nice bubinga but both peices are to small to get the most ouf of them 12" is to narror for a one peice, and book matching will mean wasting so much of that wood since 12" is to small to rip it up the center and have 2 boars to book match.

what are you talking about???? First, my tele is a fender squire made in mexico, and it was baught brand new from a retail location, fenders have been made in mexico for quite a while. The japanese line of "squires" where designed to be a budget models for the fender line, but ended up being almost as good an instrument for half the price, and affected they're american line profit which was one of the reasons they where cut, something to which i can actually contest, my uncle has one of the early japan strats and it plays beautifully, better then some of the 1500$ "american deluxe" models i've played in shops. EDIT, beat me to it speedy

practice on accoustic, then do your "playing" on an electric.... some people say it's cheating but i've noticed it's really helped me the past couple of weeks...