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krazyderek

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Everything posted by krazyderek

  1. use one of these... (the block)
  2. most specialty wood stores in north america... i got a 50" peice of 1x2 ebony for neck thru laminates for 66$ (50$US) localy Ebay as fingerboard sized blanks of ebony all the time that just need to be resaw.
  3. oh dear...... i've had 3 different people send me different links to various sites with that video.... it's just the ending performance on the larrivee guitar tour video, i watched that over a year ago, i beleive the performers name is Justin King, and his style resembles that of Preston Reed.
  4. if you're going to laminate a neck i say use some 1/4" peices of ebony and get some added strength for all your work instead of just some "cool" black lines...
  5. you said "this" a couple times and i'm not quite sure what "this" is... ? you mean just use the standard tele bridge? or a tele Humbucker birdge? or a standard Strat style hardtail ?
  6. why not just install a second switch instead of retopping it? so it has a functional switch where you want it and just leave the one that is in the spot you don't like? might look kinda cool to have two... and you wouldn't have to chuck that top..? and if you are chucking it, can i have it
  7. Whole guitar is in Standard C so everything down 2 whole steps for me but these are the correct notes.. the "arepeggios" are: Gminor in A form then 2 triplet variations of that, then, C minor in C form then2 triplet variations of that, then, F minor in A form then 2 triplet variations of that, then, Bflat minor in C form, then Bflat major in C form. and the 2 starting runs are: G Aeolean adding a high C (12th fret) then the same thing on the a string an octave higher ending a bit shorter this time on the G. I'd tab it but i don't think many of your play in C, and thanks for all the kind words
  8. assuming there's enough wood there after the fingerboard you can use a wide and very sharp chisel to remove the excess wood then use a medium size file to level out the shelf, it will probably be easier to use a top mounted nut that uses wood screws.
  9. I've also found that he feeding speed affects tearout aswell, feeding to fast leads to chatter and tearout, if you go really slow and take reallly shallow passes you don't do as much damage to the blades vs deep pases, and your wood comes out really smooth where as feeding fast you get those little ripples in the wood.
  10. Spent the past couple days finishing up a neck made me want to rip out some riffs, so i was just taking a hour to relax and play i came up with this, thought i'd brag, woopse.... i mean share Derek - Jason Becker Tribute Enjoy!
  11. that's amazing Drak!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  12. No of course not, a zig zag slot! yes just a simple straight slot with a constant depth. Usualy the adjustment hole isn't big enough to let the truss rod slide out of the peghead side of the neck. Some Necks are designed with the truss rod access the heel of the neck for this exact reason, the truss rod can slide right out of the neck if it ever needs to be replaced. Yes it is friction fit, if you routed correctly the truss rod should sit snuggly into the slot and once the string tension is on the neck it's not going anywhere. The length of the slot is going to be the length of the rod it's self + a small area at the end that's wider then the rod to give you room to work with your allen key. Possition the adjustment end of the rod close to the nut, the exact location will depend on your peghead angle, nut type / string retainer type.
  13. there was another old thread on this way back, several people have used riser blocks in their saws to increase the height of the saw, then you just need to buy a longer blade. Lex used some maple shims and he said they worked ok. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...wtopic=7516&hl= his pics aren't still there but it works the same way as any bandsaw does, there's bolts that connect the lower and upper arms of the saw, simply put a hard block in there and use longer bolts if you have to.
  14. i've never trusted sanders to be that true, but then again i only use a little 300$ model, that thing is hudge GuitarFrenzy!!!!
  15. In terms of perfect i gave this a try, gives you a perfectly continual 1/4" curve, with no guess work. I was hessitant at first, but if you take it slowly and clamp the template to a square fence you should have no problem as i didn't. Then just use the correct height template bit for the neck heel, or a couple of bearings on a short one. Was that what you wanted? Something that was just a bit more precise? What was it for anyways?
  16. just one, they joint, glue and plane them for you, hence you buy one, two peice body, or one one peice body
  17. come on, admit it! you guys are all just to lazy to put them in!
  18. very nice consistent grain, i'm sure you could come up with something a bit less brakable.
  19. you're kinda doing this backwards, do a little research for 7 string bridges, pick one you want to use, then decide on either a 48mm (standard) or 50.4mm (wide) nut and work the rest out with a peice of paper and a long ruler for drawing the lines.
  20. if you're going to get a humidifier and all, why not use a smalle room, put a glass window and door on it, do the inside in cedar, and keep a humidifier / dehumidifier in the room to keep it regulated, then you'll have a nice little regualted accoustic properly moisturized room, i'm sure there's plenty more details... but depending on how many guitars you want to maintain that might be the root to go
  21. excellent work! but what about the oil tank? didn't think that would fit in if it was painted? Either way good call on the radiator, sutble but ties in nice.
  22. why not just make a fender style flat head stock?
  23. nope, we actually just talked about that, try just try a searchy thing for it
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