krazyderek

what ever happened to this guitar? i was planning a project with some bloodwood when i remembered this guitar? is jay still around??

actually i don't re-lock the nut until i'm done.... you don't have to slack the strings completely, just enough so that you don't dig a groove into the saddle when you move it..

i've used it... it's harder then basswood, and almost as light, i think fender used it in some of their lower models

dremel makes a standard cutter bit that has a diameter of 0.8mm

Jem Blueprints scroll to the bottom for blue prints, use the corel one to get the correct size to print, and yes you should be able to print it off at home in multiple sheets, or take it to a copy shop and they'll print it off for you for roughly 4$ Might actually be easier to make your own neck, or just keep an eye on ebay for a jem or rg neck, but make sure u make the right body for neck you do get, the all access necks are longer and need a different body then the old style jem neks...

only one complete so far, others are right behind

they're site says for strats and tele's i think they're assuming you're going to use a pickguard over the rout, in which case you might want it a bit bigger (hence using the template bit)

i seem to recall someone NOT recomending biscut joining for this exact reason.. only their biscut was visible in the lower horn cut away area... go solid colour, if this is your first guitar, odds are, an inlay to cover that is just way to much, to do well at least... just put it aside for down the road, and glue up another blank

the lower right horn looks like it's crowding the neck compared to the other side... in fact that hole side of the guitar looks a little to close to the strings... probably just the arc of the knee cut though.

i can just picture that in my head.... be pretty funny to see a sanding drum fly THRU ur wall anyhoo, the oscilating spindle sanders are much better, the up down motion keeps them from getting blocked up. and their nowhere near as loud as a router

i use steel straight edges and my router table to taper necks, i do the back of the neck ruff on a bandsaw if i'm going from a 1" (25.4mm) thick neck blank to a 17mm wizard neck, or i'll just use my 60 grit belt on my 24" belt sander until i've ruffed the size, then switch to 150 to touch up and get a basic round shape on the back of the neck, then spokeshave my final shape, use 6" leveling blocks to make sure i've got a nice straight back, and finally a couple peices of sand paper to work the transition areas around the volute and heel.

well i used tremclad Flat Black rust paint, but any paint wood do i suppose

I wanted to change the pickups on my strat so i figured i'd try something new with the pickguard while i had it off. Here is a tutorial that will show you how to get creative with your pickguard and create something unique. Do It Yourself Pickguard Tutorial Here's a little teaser

i love how people keep comparing a car to guitars.... it cracks me up, people buying a BMW or porcha instead of a used mazda to drive from point A to point B in a city don't get there any faster or differently unless you're on the autobon in germany.. shinny objects are pretty much the modern day version of a human maitting tool... to attract attention, look i have money to buy an expensive car... or the simple fact that it's shiny will catch peoples attention.. I've got to agree with Big D, i'm kinda fond of the "satin" finished guitars, and oil finish on natural woods that don't need to be sealed. Personally even on electric guitars, i like to be able to feel the guitar vibrating as much as possible which does get damped down as you thicken up and solidify the finish on the guitar. The gloss is nice, but way to much work to get perfect, and you have to buff it everytime you touch it unless you like having oily finger prints on your pretty little guitar. Frankly i'm kinda tired of seeing the same old high gloss mirror finish, don't get me wrong it's a very nice look, but i wish there was a bit more wide spread varaiety in terms of of guitar finish other then just a couple of custom guitars here and there and the odd "goth" guitar that has a satin finish. Asside from the limited protection a thick coat of buffed lacquer provides, it's pretty much just a selling point for a guitar, "wow that one's really shinny, it must be good"... we've pretty much just been hipnotized into buying shiney things for so long that now anything that isn't shiney is either regected upon first review, or takes to long to become widely accepted as acceptable, cool, and good. Basicly we live in an age where utility isn't the primary reason the majority of purchases or purchasing descisions are made, often due to the "the shinier the better!" and "well even if it doesn't work as well at least it will look good" syndrome's that's been subconsiously sold to us all our lives in flashy commercials. bla bla bla..... i'll be suprised if anyone actually reads all that..

ok one of my ideas is currently being built by a member on here, my little amp another dream i've had was to wire a 3 way switch on a HH guitar like so... 1. bridge series, 2. 1 coil bridge series with 1 coil neck 3. neck series but here's the kicker, have coil taps for each pickup that operate only in positions 1 and 3, doesn't matter what the push pull pot is doing... when you select the middle position you would always get the same thing.

since the end of the heel isn't 90 degrees to the sides of the neck, it does make it hard, you can't really use much other then that template, unless you want to sit there with some sandpaper and a radius guage, which i actually have done before..

there is a tutorial on the main site for removing your fingerboard, i did that to my strat and replaced it with a fingerboard i made from scratch and i had no problems

the physical effort required isn't very extensive, just unscrew the 4 screws and swap necks. The thing you have to worry about is the intonation. If you don't get the exact same neck, or an exact clone then the intonation will have to be adjusted, and if you get the wrong neck you might have to move the bridge to get the right intonation setup. What you're looking for is the distance from the nut (fingerboard side, not headstock side) to the the end of the heel (the actual maple heel, not the end of the fingerboard) Also you have to comepare heel shapes, for example a tele neck won't fit a standard strat body.

hmm..... i'm at home depot quite a bit and i haven't seen the rigid planer

something like this would do the trick i think The fact that the guitar is semi hollow just means you'd leave the edges of the guitar intact to allow/leave enough wood to be able to rout there's a thousands of different profile designs available from router bit manufacturers

just to add to morben's reply 12" will rarely if ever be wide enough to plan a guitar body blank, i have a 12-1/2" wide thickness planer that just barely does standard strat size bodies. IF i were to buy another planer or recommend a planer to anybody on this forum it would have to be AT LEAST 13" wide.

LOL wow lgm, thanks for evaluating my idea, gives me lots to chew on back to the drawing board for a better sounding accoustic i guess.

sorry, missed that third long post, makes sense now

wasn't working for me at first, now the pictures are coming up though Weren't you worried about getting some black on the front and back?

dibs on the neck if *someone* ever pm's me back