krazyderek

buying the rg or jem templates from guitarbuildingtemplates.com would probably be your only option, the pocket it's self should be tailored to the neck your using, so i imagine you're just after the AANJ shape to put on the/a guitar? in that case you might try searching around the forum and the rest of the net for a pic then just blow that up in paint shop till you have what you need.

check here you may find something close http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/I-8010.html

is there going to be any avatar control aswell? although the hot chick's phase was cool, is it something that we should try and put away if we're going to try and clean up the whole board for a more serious look?

hehehe

most arbor's have a soft steal rod so drilling and tapping are pretty easy if you have a drill press. I opted for a thumb screw for quicker adjustability on mine

although the guys may seem a bit harsh, but rhoads kinda had a point, especially if you're just like "give me a template, any template" really shows your enthusiasm, find something you really want to make, then try searching for it on the net... a good place to start is guitarbuild.com

strip the finish, there'll still be a bit of a bevel, put the veneer on anyways, then trim it down with a exacto, and then sand the remaining amount down to match that bevel stain and fade the edges to hide the glue line

Well, i can tell I am in standard by tuning the E string to E, or what sounds like E,..... damn that sounds way more accurate then a tuner you must have perfect pitch

just make sure you NEVER USE UPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they charge hourendous "brokerage" ( b.s. ) fee's... i think fedex also does.. for "clearing" an item thru customs..... we're talking anywhere from 20-70$ where as with postal you'll only ever pay 5$ yes, the 7% is great better then my 15% hst here in NS

this is very possible.... and reminds of me the guy that converted a strat to a an electric accoustic guitar. I like flame myself, but there are so many cool patterns, don't make up your mind till you've checked out some nice peices on ebay, gallerywoods, etc.... I would sujjest going with a 1/4" top if you can, this will require a planner but will make it a bit easier. plane the guitar down glue the top on, bend it arm rest and glue that, then re-rout the pickups neck and birdge, this avoids timeless filling of holes and leveing it back down like you would have to do before glueing on a veneer. converting to a rear access isn't hard since you're adding a top, with the veneer it's a bit trickier. But when you cut thru the back you'll most likely have to touch up or repaint that area, especially if you're going to use a cover thatwill be flush with the back of the guitar instead of a one that just sits on the wood.

I had a new thought on this, i'm sure many people have seen the control pedals for dremels and scrolls saw and such, the harder you step on the pedal the more power the saw gets till it's up to full power, i wonder if you could hook something like that up to the router? so that it only received 1/4 it's usual power that would slow it down plenty wouldn't it?

something similar happened to Lex when he was making his bass, he just glued another ear on the headstock and off he went. what kind of wood was it, some woods chip and tear out much easier then others. Rhoads is right, sometimes routing with the rotation of the bit is required for exceptions like this, but make sure you're holding the peice extremely firmly and only make short controllled passes across the bit. and make sure you have a good quality sharp bit in there

where are you located? you might be close to one of the board members? are you looking to build a kit, with a neck and your own body, or completely from scratch? do you have a basic table saw bandsaw planer jointer wood shop already or access to one? Unfortunetly there's no substitute for the proper specialized tools, so i order most of my stuff from the US, stewmac.com , alliedlutherie.com, although router bits and other general wood working tools are avaiable from home depot, leevalley, etc.

i would suggest a continual radius, unless you're buying the fingerboard pre slotted and radiused. the actual radius is up to you though

well if you open this picture, and then the next one in the same browser and just press forward and back a couple of times you'll see exactly where an why these guitars are different. http://www.prsguitars.com/showcase/current...s/lg_stan24.jpg http://www.prsguitars.com/showcase/current...s/lg_stan22.jpg I looks to me that the 24 templates would not be suited for a 22 fret guitar, BECAUSE, the 24 fret neck is longer, cutting the heel a bit short would not do the job, it would most likely lead to a loose joint, and like wes said the bridge, and bridge pickup would also need to be slid back the according ammount, although you could measure this and reset the template after routing the neck pickup and body contour, again like wes said, the whole point of getting the templtes is to start off on the right foot, not the wrong foot with a crutch Sorry, but if it was me i'd probably wait. Although, if you only have access to the tools for a limited time, and feel you can perform the above accuratly, then it's up to you.

sorry for not saying what it was, it's an OLD carvin x-100 with 6l6's and the old cursive logo I got a SD-1 to put in front of it, and followed a tip, cut the presence to 1, and boost the 3k on the built in graphic EQ, it sounds SWEET!!!!!!!! almost like a marshall mesa highbrid!!!

southpa posted this link in another thread, thought i'd post a direct link to the chart shows where to put pickups , % of scale length if your after a certain guitar's sound (pickup location http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~dgb/G_PU_POS_e.htm good explination franko, most of that was on the tip of my tongue just hadn't put it together till now

get some baritone strings, d'addario makes a set of 68's that are meant to be tuned down to B Personally i use 56's the next set down with a wound third for my standard C tuned guitar.

agreed, try and get the biggest angle out of the block. The angle will depend on how long the head stock is but i would say you might be able to squeeze anywhere from a 13 to a 10 degree tilt back. I think you may have something backwards though, the less of an angle you have the MORE there is a need for string tree's.

you could just fit a humbucker yes.... but depending on how many fretsthe neck is i'm not sure if you're have room for a floyd

no offence or anything.... but without a tuner, how do you know you're even in "standard" ? and dropping a big string like the Low E down 2 steps to C is going to throw everything out of wack, solid tail or not, unless of course you're playing a steam beam with strings Best advice i can give is ACTUALLY LISTEN to your jr high music teacher, took me 500$ in a university music course to realize "i already know all this, i learned it 6 years ago" Just need to know the basic chromatic scale... Secondly, apply that chromatic scale to the neck. cause guess what? every string on a guitar neck is the chromatic scale 2 times over ( 24 frets, 2 octaves.... yada yada..) Third, buy a tuner!!!

with a blank that thick, it's pretty easy to imagine... he just took the entire headstock part of the scraf from the back of the neck blank, leaving the thicker tennon part, and then cutting the end of the blank at the right angle to receive the headstock that he just cut off the back of the neck blank

very cool, although it costs 10$ for me to order a catalogue in canada, so that already kinda makes me question how much ordering an actual tool or peice of wood would cost :S

where did you get the wood at? and ballpark how much was it before shipping?

most pickups will require a #3 or even smaller, a #2 screw to fit inside the existing hole if you plan to ever use the pickups with rings again and want to preserve the hole in the ear. Otherwise, just find a pack of #4 screws and redrill the holes in the ears of the pickups.