gripper

I think it is wierd that there is not a supplier like McMaster-Carr that works for people in europe. There really HAS to be. They have them in stock for 76 cents in stainless. I have no idea if they have a warehouse in europe but they have everything. McMaster rocks!

Whersthebeef, his negative answer was still wrong because it had the string-from-edge spacing subtracted as well. You learn a little of this exact stuf doing a four-wheel alignment on a car even with the stupid preprogrammed laser Bear systems. When a car has modified suspension or wheels you have to do it the old way or it will dogwalk left or right. Very hard on tires. New tires ROCK!

Wolfcoast, I have not a single cluw how I bbegame a regular member. I have only been here a month or two and I thought I was a nebie! Maybe my math skills did it! Or then maybe not. It must be because I constantly ROCK!

That link shows the inserts ARE brass. If you are worried about the two screws under the pickup look at stainless steel slab or round weldnuts. Like what cabinet makers use. You can drill all the way into the pickup cavity and put them in from the top. Just a thaought.

The wipe on poly is a very good product for people like me who don't have much equipment to do anything else. I used the Minwax stain, altough I can't say if it was Polyshade, and it got dark and blotchy in a hurry. Who could ask for anything more? That was the look I was after. Minwax rocks!

Well, if you look at my forum-name, you know where I am gonna go. I have a death grip on the neck and the pick! I ALMOST never bend with just my pinky but it isn't that hard as long as your pinky is pointed ACROSS the neck instead of at the normal(like there is such a thing) 40 degrees or so. Most of the time my second and third finger are helping with the bend. I only anchor my right hand by letting my wrist rest on the bridge/stoppiece. My new guitar is a real problem because there is not a lot of room to do that. You will also find that there are lots of places and ways to "plant" or get a physical reference point for your picking. Most of the guys I play with use the top/right part of the body to rest their forearm on. Hang on to the pick for dear life if it works for you.

A Saga kit with those P-90 knockoffs are not real bad sounding. Your money is best spent on better tuners and a decent set of strings. A trip to a big hardware store is a very cheap upgrade because the fastening screws they send in the kits are made of soft cheese with chrome. Home Depot stainless steel screws ROCK!

I can't sloder anything until I have heard it make noise. I have a $4.00 set of 12 Radio Shack alligator test leads that I use to do a component by component test starting at the output jack(with it plugged into an amp) and work my way backwards just soldering when I I know I still have a signal coming through. It works a lot better for me because I do not get along with ohmeters. Jumper test leads ROCK!

Luvcraft, you are right, I guess. These little star-things are volume sensitive. I think it is the mic built in that makes the lower freq. show up more as loud, if that is very clear. The good ones come from CanKit P/N CK264 and THEY call them a VU meter. That means they are amplitude, not freq. My mistake . Not very good on electronics unless an automobile is involved.

Shouldn't that be "+a"? I am a mechanic, not a math person. But I rock

You can get just about what you want with a $15.00 "exploding Star" color organ kit that runs off a nine volt battery. I can't find the place that sells the good ones with the little circuit board but Electronics Goldmine has part number C6818 that you would have to cut the board down because it is fairly large. You do not have to tie into your pickups because it has it's own elecrolet mic. You get a crapload of leds with it too but the good kits I can't find are all red. Blue, yellow, white and red mixed makes it look better. You need to put little bleeder caps like in a tone control circuit on each output channel if you want the channels to follow frequency as well as volume. Mine has been running for two years on the same battery! I don't play that guitar much. LEDs rock!

SD 5-2 is what you are looking for. I just mentioned it yesterday in another post in this forum. You have to be careful with wiring polarity and the noise cancelling only works in blend switch setting. All by itself it is a great sounding PUP. SD rocks!

Duff, your task sounds like what you have to do every time you remove and replace a fretboard, like when changing a trussrod, except you have some extra width in your neck to get rid of. Use a smooth file or 100 paper wrapped around a flat block and get rid of the extra wood. Try to angle the file/block so that it doesn't hit your binding (plastic or wood?) and stop before you take any binding material away. Like frenzee said, you might have to do some recontouring but if you are like me and not too fussy it won't be much. When you are done just imagine how much it would suck to do this for a living every day. Rock on dude

Univeral Jems SAGA kit is the way to go for a happy first-timer. The finishing materials like sandpaper and a real set of strings and rattle-can laquer are going to make you forget what you paid for the kit. If you have 40 hours of spare time and the funds, go for it! Take everything you think it will cost you and double it. The end result should give you a real bond with your new guitar. It worked for me and I love every single mistake I made doing it. Mistakes ROCK!!!

Could that be one of the guitars that have the hidden passive pickup inside the body cavity? I do not understand how that works but info on the inet says that someone has done it. It works to a point with microphones to reduce hum and increase output(X2) or so it is claimed. Just a thought. Rock rocks!

Bringing up a subject from a couple of weeks ago, the ProShop at SD (did you know that there is a Seymour and he plays guitar?!!) sent me a 5-2 RWRP neck pickup and it absolutely ROCKS!! I am now going to put a 3-way switch in that lets me select three VOLUME settings with a tone-bypass on the highest switch setting. The guitar is dead quiet in pickup-blend and needs to be a little easier to switch from high to low volume settings. How many control knobs can you stuff onto a Tele control plate? I might think about putting the three volume pots on the butt of the guitar or making a fixed ratio-type resistor network inside the control cavity(like there is a whole lot of room left) but that would take a lot of trial and error stuff. Any and all ideas are more than welcome. SD rocks!

I did not use the bridge doctor that they sell but made sort of the same thing to flatten the back-of-bridge belly on a POC Fender out of wood (no screw). The only problem I had was I had to make a new saddle insert that was about 1/8" taller because the action was too low after the top was flat. The strings didn't all hit the insert very hard. Buzzed a bit and the action was too low. You might find the guitar action kind of unstable for about a week. I did. Flattops rock!

Gorecki, that is what I thought was the case. The real conditioners in the video truck weigh at least 30 pounds, not the 50 I said exactly. The older Furmans that he uses in the truck he calls protector/filters. Back to my issue with the need for one, protection is very nice and could save some real money in the case of a real bad voltage spike. You can get protection from a good power strip. Filtering looks to be the next issue but I thought the built-in power supplies of most rack stuff was regulated and filtered to a large extent. Then there is the ground-lift function that I thought was rather bogus but there are pieces of equipment that really quiet down with the ground lifted. You could do the same thing by cutting the ground prong off the plug but that seems to be a desperate solution. In a thread I found doing the search someone said ground-lift does not disconnect the ground. It couples it through a capacitor. At that point, I am lost because I do not understand coupling. They get so much money for those Furmans that there must be more to them than I understand. Got this one borrowed for a week or two and will try to justify buying one. By the way, my pedal noise was a real newbie stunt. Dirty jacks and plugs. 25 caliber brass cleaning brush and some Safety-Kleen and my pedal board is behaving well. No humm rocks!

If you buy 3M compound the bottle will have a "cutting" chart with a rating for each grit/compound. I just used a general purpose new-finish machine compound on an old tee shirt for about 20 minutes and switched to some real low rated buffing/swirl stuff. I found that the fresh compound did not leave as nice a shine as dirty compound that had been on the rag for a while. 3 hours later, shiny guitar, sore fingers. The cutaways are hard on the fingers. Stay off the edge corners. They seem to take care of themselves. Glossy guitars rock! Do yourself a favor and don't spend too much time on the back/center. You are going to scratch the crap out of it anyhow. No need to feel bad about it.

I can't spell it but my best guess is "technique". French or something. I can't solder a damn thing without putting a little solder on the iron itself like you said. One thing I did learn was cleaning the old solder off with flux and braid really helps. I have never seen the alloy option luvcraft says about but I am going to look. I hat gray solder joints. Rock, rock, rock!

If it doesn't boil spit when you puke on it I would leave it alone. My Marshall practice amp will almost burn you at the heatsink and it has survived some pretty brutal use. There probably is some maximun temoerature info available on the transistors or FETs that would give you a TOP TEMPERATURE BUT i REALLY WOULD BET THE line PEOPLE HAVE BEEN THERE, DONE THAT. Cap lock rocks!

I was floored by the perfect fit of a Warmoth Fender neck into a Fender body. It was perfect. Oddly, the fit of their neck into their body was not as good. Too loose for my tastes and the heel was not butted up completely. Go figure. I don't know about the pocket depth being shallow because, of course, that depends on the bridge and stuff. Rock rocks!

Matt, this thread has me baffled. I thought you said you wanted to BUILD a metal amp. If you really just want to take a Sunn solid-state and make it distort, yoo really should listen to luvcraft. The 4-tube push-pull amps crunch quite well but are complex to build. The preamp procecessors are a great way to get a solidstate amp to sound like you wish it to. I thought you wanted to build an amp from your first post. No rock I misunderstood you.

Get ahold of Saint Louis Music and get a schematic for a 120 Crate Blue Voodoo head. Mess around with some gain issues and a few differant preamp tubes and you will have a metal MONSTER! If you build a reverb channel into it, be very careful about the reverb-out tube. It makes a lot of differance. I didn't know you could change those preamp tubes out at will without rewiring. When I found that out I started swapping tubes on my Genz and a borrowed BV and learned a lot about the effect of preamp tubes in a fairly simple tube amp. Metal, meddle, why not?

Wow, what a head! 4 output speaker jacks! My problem is that it is solid-state output and I don't think my fix would work. I use a headlight out of my Impala (may it rest in peace) wired to a 1/4" plug and plug it in with the speaker . I don't have the nerve to plug it in by itself but it does cut the ouput volume about in half. My head is all tube and does not seem toi have a problem with it. They sell a load resistor for amps that takes the place of the speakers but they are like real pricey. It is also hard to find the adapter you need to plug a set of stereo headphones into a mono 1/4" jack. Before anyone asks, no, the headlight does not flash kinda cool while you play. It just gets kind of yellow. I think you should wait to get a proper mod as you asked for because those solid state amps are really fussy. Till then, rock your guts out!