bob123

I suppose! Im used to seeing these CNC manufacturers and precision machining. The hand drilling of the dots really blew me away. Not even a drill press! Its impressive at least.

I know that these guys have more talent and skill in their pinky then I do in their whole body, but some of this seemed a bit... "sloppy"? That aside, cool vid, and thanks for sharing.

a semi-hollow neck through... interesting... to be blunt, you may be better off with just the neck through, or perhaps a simple chambering job. F holes would be unnecessary, and probably difficult to execute effectively. As far as chambering goes, it makes it sound more "woody" and "open", and also helps on the back. With this kind of elegant design, I'd go for a buckeye burl top over a figured maple. http://www.conklinguitars.com/custom_shop_guitars/guitar_pictures/custom_8_string_guitar_buckeye_burl_cocobolo/custom_8_string_guitar_buckeye_burl_cocobolo_1_large.jpg

*puts on nerd glasses*. Currents are only induced when there is relative motion between current carrying conductors. A magnet touching "shielding" paint will not cause any issues at all. So, your concern of ground loops is unfounded. The only way to create a ground loop is if you used the shielding paint as the ground. Instead, the shielding paint acts as a sort of faraday cage, blocking out external magnetic or static interference. It does not act on the circuit itself. In reality you are better off shielding the wires, as that will produce a true faraday cage, whereas the paint will not properly disperse any external interference. (i.e. only working in one direction). Now, to answer your side question, if you attached your ground wires to the paint itself 1) that wouldn't be very reliable, I wouldn't think, and 2) that would play more of a part in ground looping. Everything still must go to the ground wire on the input jack. So you'd be attaching grounds to the paint, and the from the paint the jack. That doesn't make a whole bunch of sense to me.

edit: I need to read apparently Yes, several material finishes back, you should have a base color to match the top you are using. Dont use white though, go black or dark gray if anything. It will darken the cloth finish a bit, but it wont fade either.

I cant tell, does this thing have a floyd rose shelf? edit: can you send me some bigger pictures via PM or post here? thanks!

Being plastic based material, Id speculate it'd actually be easier to refinish. The only issue, Id say be careful on how aggressive you sand, and do NOT use paint strippers or heat guns for obvious reasons. Grunt work will bring that one in the best. As far as paint is concerned, you may need a plastic based primer to prime it with.

Inlays got me hard.... Looking forward to this one! Good work so far!

hahaha, this doesnt look shady to you? Looks great though man, Im glad it worked out for you. I guess the beveled fret thing is a good idea for many different reasons. My only concern would be the "hold" the fretboard would have on the tang vs a non beveled edge.

Lol ironically, the paint "soaked" into the scraped binding I have goin on, so it was "beveled". I put on another coat to fill it in more, I'll report tomorrow what I find.

First off, I HATE V's, Im not a neckthrough guy, and I dont like pointy headstocks.... but WOW you seemed to create a great "amalgam" with the mix. The paint looks incredible, and that neck joint looked shady at first, but looks to die for now. Second off, I was under the impression the point of beveling fret slots was to help during a refret. It's supposed to make things easier as far as chipouts are concerned.

People argue about tone with regards to types of gloss? O.o thats a new one to me Should be no difference as far as tone is concerned.... lol

great thread so far, thanks for sharing!

Oh, odd. thank you.

This stuff turned out pretty well! Has some slight bubbling on places, but the brush strokes self leveled themselves. Since I put a heavy coat on (yeah yeah, I know "many thin coats are better"), its still SLIGHTLY tacky. I will probably be comfortable handling it tomorrow. Heres a picture of it. If it werent for the slight bubbles, Id actually not even bother with sanding/polishing probably. http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg26/scaled.php?server=26&filename=img20120217152958.jpg&res=medium

got some oil clear from hobby lobby and brushed it on yesterday. Im on a business trip for a couple days, and will report back what I find when I get home on thursday. edit : It was surpisingly easy to work with, went on thick but didnt run, and was easy to apply.

May I ask why you used linseed oil? That aside, looks pretty good!

Got a flat oil based clear, Ill fill you guys on results. Gotta figure the best way to aerosol it.

Nah, I have plenty of experience in oil based finished. I guess Ill give it a shot and see how it comes out and report my findings Im freakin tired of sanding poly, want something stronger then urethane

coil tap?

Alder is a classic for a reason. Can go with some flame maple on top of it for some good looks. edit: veneer or top would allow you to use mahogany as well obviously.

swirls arent neccessarily oil based paints. Im referring to use oil as a clear coat.

Currents are only induced when you have relative motion between the two magnetic fields. The magnets are also past the nut, and the string tension past the nut will be far higher then the string tension before the nut. Magnets are far too small to cause any interference of any kind. Have you decided on colors yet? This build is AMAZING!

You can "clean" up your humbuckers (if they have a "mooshy" sound) by installing in line resistors on your pickups. They will lower your output proportional to the size of the resistor, so its not recommended for single coils or low output, vintage style humbuckers. the resistance of your potentiometers will also dramatically affect your sound as well.

doing research, I've been wondering if clear oil paint would be useful. It's incredibly hard, and would probably polish well, would like some input on this.