John Morciglio

Cutting tools are just that. The tool has to be harder than the material you are cutting. If you are uncomfortable, or unfamiliar with their usage. By all means.' do not try this at home'. Have used pattern bits,(mid-level ), NOT Harbor Freight stuff),to chase 100's, if not 1000's of lin. ft. of 6061, 7075 and 7005 aluminum from 1/4 to 3/4"thick. First trimming on the band saw like you would a body w/template. The Fraued brand bits last quite a while. Have tried Amana and CMT and they don't last any longer but cost more. Also wear safety gear! Using a belt sander will not yield an accurate or straight cut. IMO, the fretboard should be dead straight and not "tapered into the body" It also looks like the string spread could have been wider at the bridge to line up over the pole pieces?

Yes,I have enough carbon tops around. It's the transition from front/top ,to sides that I like to see clean. At least flush.

Thanks

Think the top is Aspen? It's tax time so while organizing receipts, found one for Aspen at Lowes. Looked it up on their site and it sems to be a match. Think I made some shelves for a niche with it? Testing some stain samples and ready for a final sand on the top. Couldn't resist stringing it up with a baritone set. The tone I hear on them must come frome the longer scale cause this thing sounds wicked. (used a piezo/bar pickup I have wired up). Can't wait to get it wired and playable. I guess a 28" baritone will have to be next? Will have 30, 32, 34" scales when these are done. A guy might buy that VB-650. Think I'll use the smaller guitar template for the next one. Even with the short scale it feels huge. JM

Been a month since any update. These have been ready for finish for a while now. Got some System 3 on the guitar and letting them cure for 72hrs. Took them down to the basement on the seldom used pool table. Again, sorry about the cellphone pics. Found the camera and the batteru was dead. Have 5 builds ready for finish. The weather is finally starting to cooperate. JM

Glad you got it done! Belt sanders scare me for precision work. Since I had another P-bass neck here that needed a re-fret. Went commando and clamped a straight-edge to demonstrate how it would work; This whole thing took a little over an hour. Including re-shaping the neck. Still needs a little more fine tuning. Carbide bit cut the frets like butter. Could have removed the frets first. When I set the last one up on the mill, took almost an hour to set-up for the first pass. (fixtures, stand-offs checking measurements, etc. This was much quicker. Wore eye, hearing protection and a resperator. "bad idea"? JM .

Looks GREAT! Was gonna ask if anybody actually used epoxy for grain filling? Have been using System 3 "clearcoat" to kill pinholes for clear carbon finishes. When searching Z-poxy, found the same System3 at some luthiers supply sites. System3 instructions say it CAN be sanded the next day. I wait 48 to 72hrs min. Tested on a scrap of mahogony and it seemed to work OK. If I'm doing a solid color, have some Duratec primer that we use for mold making. This stuff is used at furniture factories. VERY hard/durable. Can be shot over rough surfaces as a heavy primer/filler. It is also highly TOXIC. Probably the worst stuff I ever use in my shop. Shop is next to the house so I won't spray the nasty stuff unless the family can be out for the day. Epoxies are much safer. JM

It does look like the baltic birch plywood (in the pics). It's bugging me enough to consider using this top for a plug to make a carbon top from?

It's very hard, machines well. Spokeshave and planed nice. Ruling out the ash? Grain pattern is different. Not sure about basswood, sounds cool/apropriate. Keep thinking it HAD to be from a cabinet/library/furniture job. Sometimes I would take scraps or cut-offs home? Have been on alot of really big jobs where there would be many different trim crews. Also, I specialize in winding handrails. So could have gotten it from a job I only ran the rail on with no other trim work. Pic of the back help? It's a cabinet grade hardwood. Thanks JM

Anything decent with carbide flutes. NOT a laminate trimmer. Unless you're running stainless, or those hard gold EVO's. Test a scrap peice. Would also use a wide/therfore stable guide or straight-edge, so your router base is stable. Then flip it for the other side? JM

Turret mill would make short work of it. :-) Guessing you don't have access to one. You could build a router jig/sled to hit it from the top? Even a carefully secured template could work. (attatched to the top of the fretboard). Maybee set up like a caul to hold the frets tight. Could clamp at headstock and screw thru pup cavity? Tapered an old P-bass neck down to Jazz width. The mill cut through the board and frets like butter. Still had side dots showing. Might want to make a test pass on something fretted to make sure your cutter doesn't "grab" the frets. JM

So I scrounged through the shelves in the shop and found what appears to be, white ash??? Very light, not maple. Lighter than some poplar and pine I have here. Anybody have a guess? Please? Photobucket is freezing. Sorry about the cell-phone pics. They used to be better than our old camera. Bought my wife some pro-gear for her birthday so we can get better shots of stuff. ?? Thanks JM

I ordered the Labella's but they were out-of-stock. Have always used GHS Boomers, so thought they should be good? GHS is in MI, so I called there tech guy. He said they should have been 34.5" for all of them? Have to wait till they get some more in but won't order online again unless string length is verified. Might set this up with, string-thru, along with the wraptail and a easily removable tailpeice. Should cover anything? John

Made some more prodgress on this VI build; Got the fretboard/trussrod glued. Fretted and shaped the neck, heel and valute. Access cover, hollowed the body. Still kicking around the top. Carbon is here, paid for. Would like to maybee just carve some wood? Wish my local mill had some pre-planed/sanded stuff. They have alot of exotic species but, you have to pick from rough stock. Strings are proving to be an issue. Got a wrap-tail bridge figuring I can "build a set" from guitar and bass sets. Ordered a 'custom" set for aFender bass VI, (GHS). 3 lowest strings were 37", ball to winding. The 3 high strings were 33" ???***? Just gonna use those to set the intonation. If I go (thru-body), should be able to use reg. scale. JM

Got the neck glued up, roughed in and the neck pocket routed; Waiting for a truss-rod. Going to change the headstock slightly. Had an alternate shape and took off too much on the treble side :-( Played the Fender VI and a Shecter Ultra VI. They had a Tele baritone and "Special baritone?" Think I'll just use some good humbuckers. Plugged into a Bassman 59. Really need to spend more time with one and use my own amps. Kind of strange. Not quite a bass, not quite a guitar? Will be a fun thing to jam with. JM

Completed some templates and trimed the blank a little closer; Off to motorcityguitar (3mi. from here), to cgeck out the Bass VI. Will pick up some strings if they have them. The You-tube clips I like best have the Gretsch baritone. TV Jones? Hard to tell when they don't say what amps their using? JM

2nd the plug and re-drill but,, Some of the roller bridges have fore-aft adj. slots at the height adj. posts. (might be enough to cheat)? Some are locked in with a set screw. Have the budget one from Allparts.Only use it for set-ups. It has a good range. JM

I've found the Schaller to be an very nice roller bridge. The saddles ARE angled. being able to adjust the string spread is a bonus. Picked up a Gretsch-type (space bridge?), where the saddles are just grooved thumbwheels on a threaded rod. On sale for way cheap and I liked the looks. They are also canted, but just slightly. JM

Yes, thinking the same way. If I want it to sound like a BassVI, should wire it like a Jag or Strat. The Baritone Hagstrom had a different sound. As you would expect. Lighter gauge strings ( need to check what they use?) Have a GC store nearby that has the Fender VI. Like this store ALOT. TRADED in a "10" top PRS there and only lost 400.00 from original purchase. The Hagstrom was used and I don't think I can find one to try. Place a high value on the space between the pickups on guitars. Moving the bridge pup closer to neck has proved to be bothersome. Have heard of Strat guys having to lwer the middle pup. There is a Tele baritone at the same store. Think it would have the same vibe, (Fender single coils). Being a bassist/guitarist, this should be fun for jamming and riffing etc. When I play bass, I PLAY bass. If I want to play lead or busier stuff, I play guitar. Think it would be welcome at our "Jam Night". Thanks JM

Progress; decided to only work on these when I'm not rushed. Started to make little mistakes from trying to sneak in a quick hour here and there. Got some tops molded; (rough-sanded for clearcotes). Heals and neck profiles are getting close. Still need to decide how big of radius on the roundover on the backs? Not sure about the binding yet. My biggest concern is the transition from carbon top to painted back? The aluminized glass inserts are to; 1 add some structure to the backs. (I made them a little thin trying to do a cleanup pass with the old bits). And to bring out the F-holes (or whatever) in photo's. Might run a lighting bolt cut-out. The EB-650 has the diamond cutout like a Trini Lopez or DG model. Lightning bolt cut-outs look pretty cool and sort of fit. Also liked some other patterns. Will mock-up some templates to decide. JM

Found my next diversion to build with the leftover material from the VB-650 and LIL' SIS builds. This is the blank glued up and rough cut. Offset, doublecut. Kind of going for a Starcaster vibe. While perusing at The gearpage. Came across the FenderVI thread. Always thought the recordings I knew of,(Back in the saddle, some Beatle stuff) etc. were done on a 6 string bass with the wide nit and string spacing. Did not know there was a Baritone type guitar/bass. Was going to use this blank for a 28" scale baritone guitar. Played a Hagstrom (Viking?) and thought it was pretty fun and cool. So now I find this Fender VI and figured I would go for the 30" scale instead. Questions; WHAT pickups to try? Is the Fender VI sound from the three single coils, or would a couple humbuckers or maybee P-90's be better suited for this build? The Hagstrom had proprietary pups and did not sound like the Fender. Might go try the new Pawnshop version if someone close has one? Haven't gone to graph paper template yet but, liked the quick sketch on the cardboard enough to commit. JM

Got a little time in over the weekend. Starting to feel like I'm doing a "side job" and hope my boss doesn't catch me. boards are fretted and glued, cleaned the edges today. cut the aluminized glass and attatched it with 3M 77adhesive. will fill the cavity with clear topcoat resin later Guitar feels like it will be plenty light. The bass feels like a monster. Will relieve the neck-thru area between the pickups and bridge more. Thanks for looking! JM

Got a little time today. 5/8" pattern bit is getting dull. The 3/4" top-bearing bit had a flute missing from cutting aluminum with it. Truss rods in, headstock and neck roughed in. Had to buy more MDF for templates :-( Still need another 1/16" of depth on the 6-string. Will be skinning the interior (back), with aluminized carbon. The F-holes get lost in pics, so I put the silver carbon back there on some. Don't think I'll do Al. binding. Just want a clean transition from the carbon front to the painted back. JM

Just re-read on the drum coment. They ARE trying to change the resonent frequency in certain area's WITHOUT putting "steps' or ridges inside the shell. Seems like it would need to be stiffer at the drum head? Maybee the opposite? Caron tops; Have been experimenting with top thickness. Can build them so they don't need any bracing; this fights feedback AND lowers acoustic response. Trying to find a happy medium. If you want to play loud, plugged in. Then a tone-block under the bridge helps fight feedback. Purchased a couple low-watt tube amps. You can crank these full-hollow and not have a problem. (using common sense where you stand of course). Also have a 180watt Twin reverb. This amp only starts to really sing at "5" or above. Much more care must be taken to avoid too much feedback. On a big, or outdoor stage. They are VERY playable full-hollow. JM

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/bass/washburn-ab10-4-string-acoustic-electric-bass Definately NOT a Gibson, but for $329.00??? Don't see how they can even build these instruments for that kind of money? Well, I do but..... Looks like a "thin bodied" acoustic. The reveiws say it NEEDS to be plugged in. My Ovation w/deep bowl, is plenty loud/satisfying, for practicing un-plugged. Not sure if it would keep up with other acoustics played together? The Elite guitar is noticably louder. Also, deep-bowl. The guy working on the carbon drums was kind of guarded with the graduated thickness'. He wanted all kinds of molding info from me though? I offered to build some molds for them. They are trying to patent their ideas. He did let on that there are other drums with different shell wall-thickness'. Said that some look tri-color and are actually 2 and 3-peice shells attatched/glued with a flange or lap-joint of some sort. Not that into drums. I'll bang on them when I get the chance and would like to get some for my kids. JM