mistermikev

maple scratch plate... well i figure if you are gonna cover up the wood... do it with another piece of lovely wood. tele neck pu - well you can buy a topless pickup cover for it and place wood there... it's what I did on my last tele build. i guess I'm just into wood more than plastic but nothing wrong with a pickguard either. that said a tele neck pickup is such a dark sound... just changing to an open cover makes a world of dif afa sound too. just thoughts.

is a really lovely piece of ash. if it were me... (and it's not) I like when things match. it'd be cool to have a pick guard from the sm wood as the neck... or perhaps if you could make a veneer-thin piece of that neck wood and glue to the top of the pickup covers... might tie the room together nice. ymmv... and just a thought.

thank you sir. i came in here and looked at it 3 or 4 times yesterday and daydreamed about how I'd use it... so worth every penny at this point lol.

nice... looking fwd to hearing it.

so needed a little therapy at lunch yesterday... so off to my local spot... "I haven't bought any wood in a while... why shouldn't I?" despite a garage full of great wood. that said... hard to pass on some flamed maple at reg maple prices. Just thought y'all might need some wood therapy too hehe.

thank you sir, very much means the world to me coming from you. giant pita but this is territory I really want to expand into so... grab the scuba gear and dive!

right on. you might consider... there may be a freeware app for recording video games/screen-audio-capture that could work to capture from rocksmith. just a thought. that said... hoping for a nice bass amp in your future!!

wow, you made a lot of progress in a short time... good for you. looks great. wood grain really came to life with some clear. hope you'll let us hear it (no pressure). rawk on.

nice save.

yes good point... however it sidesteps the idea that one can simply eat the popcorn and continue looking for the maple lol. nom nom nom.

stretching my patience muscles this morn... kept the suausage fingers in the picture for reference lol. takes about 2hrs to cut all the pieces for this... then took about 2 hrs to get this far (still have to finish the eye and several little dots along the spine). NOTE TO SELF: in future, vacuum room right before you mess with anything this small or you'll end up looking like a crack head sifting through the random bits of leftover popcorn and other crumbs wondering... is this the piece that just went flying?

lol, fair enough and hard to argue with that.

lol... I'm 6'2" and 235lbs... no one's mistaking me for skinny little geek anytime soon... but my computer IS great hehe.

I used to take a lot more photos... but cnc has made the way I work so useless to others it seems. very specific to me and probably boring because a lot of the interesting stuff happens at the design part... and mostly in my head... and taking photos of myself at the pc would just be silly!

"tooty" seems much more plausible lol! that board belonged to the infamous tooty!

crazy to look at that origin and think about how many individual cuts it has taken to get to where it is. also... find myself wondering... what is significance of "II T"... hmm and interesting riddle. perhaps you are a big fan of "the facts of life"? a reference to terminator 2? the possibilities are endless...

hehe, funny you mention that. I had great concerns about hitting them while moving my machine around manually... perhaps forgetting and wham! Having lived throught the "put a 1/4 endmill through my aluminum truss rod event of 2022"... I don't want to be anywhere near if/when that sort of thing happens. the funny thing is... the whiteside bit I did that with - totally fine. That is the one I just cleaned and am still using for everything. Aircraft grade aluminum - cut that truss in half like nothing! I actually use nylon nuts/bolts and T-slots in my spoil board to hold my stuff down, so I just use the pins to get into position and then tighten down my bolts and remove the pins... but thank you for the thought! not sure my whiteside would fair as well against steel!

hehe computerised wood dust generator lols. I was not aware that you could buy locating pins... I guess forrest for the trees. I have yet to break anything above 1/8" bits (have def ruined a number of .0236 bits!)... and was going with 1/4" bcuz the 1/8" bits I have would be entirely too short to make it through the necc 1 1/2" and have enough sticking out that I could grab. the other concern was... the bits were going in tight enough that getting them out by the blade was going to result in a cut finger sooner or later. I guess if I had some old ones I wouldn't be concerned about pulling them back out with a pliers tho. I probably should have some old ones by now but cleaned up my one 'older' whiteside the other day with some saw blade cleaner and it doesn't tear out at all even on hard woods so... she's got plenty of life yet. Either way these will be great cause I can mark them at depth easily and pretty cheap. 2" long so plenty sticking out to grab.

so... recently read and re-read @curtisa's thread about tiling a fretboard with cnc. (thanks for that!) Full disclosure - also got a lot of help from @MiKro. Well I did the tiling and I don't have anything precision to measure out quite that far but via tape measure it looks good. smashing. so... as curtisa suggested I used my cnc bits as the pins to locate the piece... and while this is a great idea... I felt like I wanted to use the butt end of them because there would be less chance of wobble... and that means pulling them back out with my fingers and risking a cut... or pulling them with a pliers and risking damaging the knifes. Further, my shorter 1/4 bits are really only 1.75" total... and going through 1/4 fretboard + 3/4" slide board + 1/4" depth of cut for location hole... doesn't leave much. I also wanted to scratch/mark them so I can be sure of the depth - but not doing that on my bits... so with that in mind I figured I'd take a chance on the precision of the steel locating pins I could buy off amazon. well... bought them and checked them against the holes I cut with my whiteside bit and they are perfect... just wanted to pass on in case anyone else can benefit - link below. $13.49 for 10 pins and money well spent. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086DCHYQK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

first would like to suggest you go get the free diylayout creator... as it's a lot more organized. your blade switches - it's impossible for me to know how they work and which lug is the common looking at them... but I can tell you just looking at it that you've got the live connected from one single to the live of the other and then to several lugs... at least that's what it looks like... so those two coils would just be connected together and always on (probably not what you intended). if those blade switches are supposed to be slide switches... then perhaps get a picture of the back side of one and you can import that into diylayout creator for a more clear documentation of what you intend. looks like either a diode in parallel with a cap... in series with a resistor... or perhaps it's an op amp with a cap in the feedback loop... hard to tell. if you put a .15u cap and diode in parallel that is likely going to allow everything over say 100Hz to clip... and then that is ltd by the resistor. you are basically creating a passive overdrive similar to the 'black ice' that was popular a while back. not sure what the point of having a cap on either side of the resistor is there... no idea what we're trying to accomplish there but in theory when that is switched in it would cut bass and resist the diode more? also... you might as well describe what you thought this circuit would do. anywho... that's about all the guessing I have in me for now.

it's not so much the face... but the look on the face...it's mocking me even now! hehe was just a joke... it would be a mistake to ever take me seriously hehe.

i guess it would boil down to whether or not they decided to do that or not. in theory... you could have a through board eyelet that you just avoid once you get over 80% of the coil. that'd be an 80% tap... but I have no idea what the wires are actually hooked up to... and in theory somewhere in that stack of pcb there could be an smd resistor for a partial tap... or any number of other things. will have to read more on the site and see if they divulge this top secret info!! looking at below... def seems to be some sort of either coil tap or just splitting on the first two wires... sorry for blowing up your thread with diagrams... but i hope it's ok given you might directly benefit? here's another one showing how to coil tap anyway...

i haven't studied the fluence and what they are doing with their different 'voices'... have not found a resource that explains exactly what they are doing but given the idea of a multi layered pcb in lieu of actual wires I would think it would be foolish not to take advantage of the idea of tapping the pickups 80% of the way through the coil and doing an overwind as it would give the option to do a classic paf wind and then switch to an overwind depending on wiring... but haven't seen any literature that explains what is actually happening. that said... if they ARE doing that... this would be a RIPE situation for doing a mismatch of coils. ie 100% neck wind on one coil mixed with 80% bridge wind on opposing coil. if you/anyone knows... would love to read that.

gold covers with gold evo frets... that is a ladykiller right there imo. fluence is so on my list of things to try at some point. such a cool idea how they are made. I really like their design for metal covers too. looking fwd to it!

dip... well just tested by adding a .0177 circle to my diylayout creator and moved it around the board... yes good call the dip is where it is going to be the most problematic but should work ok. tape/ca - well perhaps I'll have to set my level for each 2" x 2" section to mitigate. that said... I could simply zero a hair above the board, and cut deeper... forcing the bit to cut a bit of 'air' before cutting the pcb. it's gonna take that much longer but would mitigate potential issues of cutting too deep and breaking a bit. the end mills I use are carbide but I imagine at the least it's going to dull them up pretty fast. with all this in mind I think I might do a clearing pass with a .0625 bit and then just use the .0177 bit to clean up the really tight spots. this is all good info and is going to give me a lot better chance at success so - thank you very much for the help!!