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mistermikev

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Posts posted by mistermikev

  1. 4 hours ago, Reece_Lightning said:

    Thanks so much for taking the time to help out!

    I was also looking, the one thing that crossed my mind is whether the scale length was any different due to having room for 3 pickups...probably just me!

    To add complications I also wanted to go for a open faced body with no pick guard, also want to fit a Scahller Hannes bridge which I'm sure I could figure out. However having the pickguard shape would still really help! 

    So would you say go for a fender jaguar plans, maybe source the pickguard online and all should piece together very nicely?

    Again, thanks for being so kind to help!

    well, I think if you are going to go thru the trouble of building a guitar... why not build something you can't buy? I read that the scale length is the sm, you can find that info on adverts selling the guitar. 

    altho the pick guard is such an intricate part of the jaguar look... I think it'd be cool to do one w/o any pickguard... you'd also have to get/make a back cover and a template to cut the hole.   afa templates - make it out of 1/4" stock first (easy to shape) then copy that to 1/2 or 3/4 mdf.  just print it out on paper, glue it to the stock, use a drill to make a hole, use a jigsaw to remove most of the material, then a drum sander to fine tune it. 

    afa pickguard... wd makes them.  or you can find used ones on ebay.  or... again, make your own template or buy single coil and humbucker tempaltes and use those.  lay it all out on the wood first.  graphic editor would be a good option as then you can just rotate a pickup outline to 12degrees (or whatever it is) so you get the pole spacing the sm.

    I would say - you have to go with what you are comfortable with... but for me I would use a graphics editor to modify a jaguar plan and experiment with different looks/colors/etc.  download the tech docs for the bridge you want and overlay them on the jag plan.  You could even change the scale length if you wanted.  once you have it the way you want, print it out on 3 sheets of 8.5 x 14.5 paper, tape them together, glue it to 1/4 stock and go from there.

    other folks just draw it on paper first.  others still draw it all right on the wood.  whatever makes the most sense to you.

  2.  

    Just now, Chris G said:

    Thanks Mistermikev!! When I started this build a couple of years ago there was no posts on YouTube or interwebs on pencil guitars. The few turning pencils into bowls  videos I could find one guy super glued each one together then covered with resin. My thought at the time is that might just work to make a drop top. Well it did!! 

    def turned out unique.  good on ya.

  3. 26 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

    ah yes, sorry I read your reply from my inbox and out of context. Well, I tidied the garage the other day - Tidying up ones toys usually results in being added to the nice list :D 

    Perhaps that's why I never get anything for xmas... dirty garage.  well, on the bright side the 1" coating of mdf dust really makes it feel like a white christmas.

  4. 1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said:

    Eh, what nice list? 
     

    yes I have a mask on when I’m cutting shell and periodically vac up the dust, I don’t like the idea of having a vac hose attached to the jewellers vice because I’ll lose pieces up the vac 

    you said "maybe santa would bring you a jewelers saw" so... wouldn't you have to be on the nice list, eh?

     

    good call on the lose pieces, but on those old dust busters they just collect everything in a clear box so... might actually save some pieces from the carpet for me. 

  5. is anyone going to address the white elephant?  - this is no way you made the nice list AD. 

    also, I'm told that pearl dust (and other inlay material) is really not good to breath... it smells like tooth decay so I'm inclined to believe that.  Have been thinking the next time I do inlay I need to get a dirt devil or other small vacuum to run nearby to suck up the dust as much as possible as I go.  Not sure if there are other/better ideas to accomplish, perhaps a mask.

  6. there are plenty of strat plans out there... google for electric and herald and strat template and you'll find plenty.  I haven't seen too many templates for the studs but I'm not sure I'd trust that to a drawing... printers tend to have a little distortion (at least mine does) and being even a little off on that could mean binding.  For me... once I have a neck on a guitar I'd use the sides of the neck and a long straight edge to draw lines down the body, then find the center, then draw out the studs from there.  I'd measure and re-measure it several time, then make pin hole marks for them, then use a brad point bit.  Not saying it's the best plan but works for me. 

    Welcome, good luck, and look fwd to seeing what you do and helping if I can.

  7. 4 hours ago, Reece_Lightning said:

    Hello everyone!

    I'm wanting to start a new build and really keen to build a Fender Jaguarillo!

    Could anyone be so kind to help me here with replica design plans please? I would try make it myself but bit of a novice here!

     

    Any advice would be much appreciated! 

     

    Cheers in advance! 

    not sure one exists.  Honestly I've never heard of a jaguarillo but did a quick search out of curiosity... didn't see any plans.  If you do a google search for the jaguar you'll def find some things... and it looks like the sm body?  I guess it's just a jaguar with dif pickups?  all the info I could fine is that it is a jaguar w 24" scale length neck and a 'simpler' pickup config.  hss with a 5 way I would guess and maybe splitting the humbucker in pos 2?  I suspect you could piece it together pretty easily... the one catch being finding a correct pickguard or building that too.

  8. 11 minutes ago, Antonfage said:

    You're correct! But the thing I'm most worried about is the laquer finish, so I'd prefer to have something with a similar finish to practice on. I'm probably going to buy some plastic routing templates to get the shape right.

    fair enough and probably a good plan.  craigslist and offerup would be my best guess.  every now and then someone posts a dirt cheap guitar there.  I bought a dillion prs copy for $25 there once... no hardware, but a solid maple body and neck.  Those kind of deals are a bit few and far between but that's where I'd look for them.

  9. the cheapest thing to practice on is going to be particle board... easily acquired at local hardware store.  In fact... I would def recommend you practive by building a template that mirrors your guitars shape... that way, once you get it perfect on the template, all you have to do is put it on the guitar and it will guarantee success afa centering.

    just a thought.

     

    edit: barring that - craigslist is where I'd look for guitar projects.

  10. " I expect there is a delay because it's loading all the images at once. Short of having some sort of progress bar to say the site is loading, not sure what I can do to actually speed up the loading process other than use low res images which I wouldn't want to do. The pics aren't scanned, some where taken by a photographer who knew what he was doing, the rest are just iphone. But they're hosting on photos.google.com which do all the conversion - they seem to do a good job of keeping good resolution with a smallish file size. "

    well, I did stay at a holiday in last night so... (hehe).  maybe this is or isn't what you want, but as I understand preload will make the page show nothing at all until all images are loaded, and so in theory it all comes up at once.  Probably not worth effort, just was my usual unfiltered impressions - you know... respond before you think... how I roll.

    " managed to superglue 3 fingers to a piece of mop " man I wish you had THAT on video.  Seriously would probably get some hits.  Nothing like that has EVER happened to me (spock). 

    afa saw... I got a $14 jewelers saw with about 9 million blades.  it is easy to cut to the line (I have never sanded anything on the logos I make... not that they are great).  The thing with those is they break pretty easy... very thin.  work great tho once you figure out how to not break them as long as possible.  this is basically the sm one I got: https://www.amazon.com/HEYMOUS-Jewelers-Adjustable-Jeweler-Cutting/dp/B07VVQ4HPR/ref=asc_df_B07VVQ4HPR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385272107002&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10615900205752875859&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030154&hvtargid=pla-830229724711&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=78829231656&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385272107002&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10615900205752875859&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030154&hvtargid=pla-830229724711

     

  11. On 9/30/2019 at 9:54 AM, Crusader said:

    Sorry for bringing this one up but I didn't find anyone saying much about "dust bunnies" One of the great things about Nitro is you can pick a spec of dust out and the lacquer just closes the gap as it dries. I've done this after about 5 or 10 minutes after I've finished using something like a Stanley Trimmer blade

    ...maybe not 10 minutes

    that is a good tip... does it work the same with 500 dust bunnies (hehe).  I paint on the side of my house in a plastic tub... backed into the corner with the tub... but wind in az is constant and full of dust.  That white guitar drove me nuts!  need to try a wardrobe bag next time.  anywho, thanks for the tip.

  12. 10 minutes ago, Norris said:

    Glad you finally got around to using them. The ones I bought are surprisingly robust. I've not broken a single one yet 

    those do look nice and a bargain for titanium.  Not breaking: good edge and good metal def work together to prevent that.  can't really have one without the other.

    now... I need to find a good straight 1/8 bit for tracing.  any recommendations?

  13. @curtisa, @ScottR, @Norris, @ihocky2, just wanted to thank you all.  I was working on my f hole tonight and admittedly a bit in despair.  Tried several bits and even cutting shallow and was having a hell of a time keeping things smooth.  considered building it in 4 pieces so I could use my sanding drum on it... and didn't want to use my nice new inlay bits - was saving those for inlay... but tried them... my gawd. 

    made it a piece of cake.  amazed at the difference.  the other bits I was using were decent bits too... but the tiny cutting diameter and fluted end gave me so much more control... floored and thankful for the help from my friends.  Just wanted to acknowledge and say thanks for the support. 

    it was these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-1-16-0625-CARBIDE-2-FLUTE-ENDMILLS-DOWNCUT-PLASTIC-WOOD-1650-0625-250/153117509130

    that were seconded by curtisa.  flipping amazing bits!

    anyone looking for inlay bits... haven't used them yet but can tell you they will be oustanding.  very easy to get a nice even surface out of em too.

    cheers

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  14. here a few shots of what I'd like:

     

    102f7dc06e047875d5530d2fab8752ba.jpg

     

    52_tele_1.jpg

     

     

    no spraygun here.  Was thinking of mohawk blonde, or perhaps reranch butterscotch blonde... but am not confident those will deliver this very opaque and less yellow variation on butterscotch blonde.  What would you go with?  Any good threads on getting this finish (I've seen a few, but nothing that has really clicked w me).

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