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Lex Luthier

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Everything posted by Lex Luthier

  1. Did you use the wood chuck to make a hole for the router bit to start in, because you can just plunge the bit into the wood, even if you don't have a plunge router you can still pop the bit in, AND even if you don't have plunging bits you can still get them in. I don't have any plunge bits, I kinda wiggle the router around slightly to get the cutters into the wood.
  2. Not that uncommon at all from the place where the builder of that guitar, Northwood Guitars, gets his figured Maple. I'm not sure what they supplier of the wood is called now, and I have a feeling they only sell to businesses. I bought a piece of flamed for myself, it was enough to give me a thinner drop-top, and an arch-top blank, that I will probably re-saw into drop tops, for $125CDN. The quilted stuff is around $200 as I remember, for a similarly sized piece. You should really see the quality of the quilt Northwood uses on their guitars, particularly custom electrics. I don't think the pics on the website do the figuring justice at all. Personally, Northwood uses some of the most outstanding figured woods I've ever seen.
  3. You may need to adjust the outfeed and/or infeed platens.
  4. I just wouldn't use it, but that's my opinion.
  5. That person must not make guitars. Personally I really like maple for necks and mahogany for bodies. EDIT: I read it as "blow" not "bow" at first. True, plywood is more stable, but doesn't sound nearly as goos as solid wood.
  6. That quilt isn't that nice looking, but still nice. I think THIS is some SWEEEEEEEET quilting! This thing is sweet in person.
  7. Same here. I still have two RC planes from when I was younger that I never even finished building because my parents split up and everything got messed up.
  8. The foreman where I work talked to his guy at House of Tools and I can get 10% off the price, making it $700CDN, which is about $802CDN with taxes. I actually have enough money right now to get it...
  9. It'd probably work, though it's just a body so if it warps it's not much of a loss.
  10. What I'm refering to are marked the planer would put in the wood. These marks were put in the wood by the infeed drum of the planer. If we took off less than 1/16" in a pass, we would see the marks. The marks the infeed drum left were more like inpressions going across the piece. Maybe you have a different problem.
  11. My work bench is basically my bed and floor of my room. I have a shop full of tools down stairs where I just machine stuff, then upstairs in my bedroom is my LARGE router table, that I also use as a bench for my bandsaw, and for free hand routing. But I basically use the floor or my bed pretty much as a bench. Here is my shop
  12. You could maybe do that with a narrower, more square shaped board, because you could keep your newly jointed edge againts the jointer's fence, but with body halves, that are 2" or so thick, by 8" or so wide, you joint the face first, then the edge, but riding the board along the jointed edge to do the other face would be hard. But the main thing is the boards would not be an even thickness throughout the board.
  13. This is a Jointer. Normally you use it to true up a face side and then a face edge prior to using a Thickness Planer in which you put the face that was jointed down, and plane off the opposite face to make the board true and flat.
  14. No, the wood is fed through the planer by toothed feeders, and you need to plane off a certain amount in each pass to remove the marks. The feeder is used in each pass, so in highschool we needed to take off at least 1/16" to remove the feeder marks.
  15. In highschool wood shop we always had to take off a certain amount in a pass to remove the feeder marks. Maybe you need to take off more.
  16. That was the only time I shattered a router bit, it was NASTY too! I was using one of those brass collar guides on the base, and when the bit shattered it blew out the side of the collar, and I was also hit in the stomach by something, must have been a piece of wood though, because it didn't go into me like a sharp chunk on carbide would have. It was back in highschool and the shop teacher said I had taken too deep a pass, not sure how deep it was, anyway I asked and he said something like, "take only 1/8" at a time", or something to that effect, and it stuck in my heasd, so I mostly do 1/8", sometimes 3/16", but when I start to take deeper passes the router also moves alot slower through the material, and more woods chips are created that I have to stop and vacuum out.
  17. page 3 dude, half way down Whoops. I kinda just skimmed through it because I have to go to work right now. BY!
  18. No need to do that, we all have our own methods of building guitars.
  19. You can also make router templates that use a brass collar as a guide. You make your templates 1/8" larger, and use any regular straight bit, not the flush trim or pattern kind, to route the cavities. This is what I do.
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