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erikbojerik

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Everything posted by erikbojerik

  1. erikbojerik
    Likewise
  2. erikbojerik
    Maybe you're supposed to use a bearing 1/8" larger in diameter than the bit? I just use an old pickguard and a 1/4" flush cut bit for my strat pup routs.
  3. erikbojerik
    I'm sure this will bring clarity to the situation. To quote Bob Benedetto (p. 190)... "Position the bridge on the guitar so that the center of the saddle is a distance of 25-1/8" from the nut. 25-1/8" represents the total of the 25" fingerboard scale used in this text and 1/8" string compensation. (As the strings are pressed to make contact with the frets, they are also stretched. This stretching will cause the guitar to play sharp. The additional 1/8" compensates for the stretched strings and allows the instrument to intonate properly.) Or, in other words, what Wes said. So, it sounds to me that you should place the bridge 24-3/4" from the nut (i.e. DON'T measure from the 12th fret, or any other fret). The board already compensates.
  4. erikbojerik
    In the Benedetto book he says something about the actual measurement of the scale being a little bit different than stated. But I'm at the office now...I'll try to look it up when I get home. That being said, the measurements on all my Fenders are exactly 12-3/4" from nut to center of the 12th fret (i.e. 25.5" exactly). They seem to work OK.
  5. erikbojerik
    I'm not sure I dig that hardware together with the burl; too many patterns, sort of like wearing spots & stripes together. Go RW board, no fret markers. Go turquoise with caps on the dome knobs. I think the steer cutout needs to be filled with black epoxy and etched, with red LED eyes, and some way to make smoke come out of the nostrils.
  6. erikbojerik
    Depending on how thick the binding is, you could try to rout the edge, use a 1/2" round-over bit and see if it is enough to get rid of the binding channel.
  7. erikbojerik
    I went for the 13" Rigid planer, on sale for $199 at my 'Depot. It is still NIB.
  8. erikbojerik
    You mean like on the old Fender Electric XII? I've only ever seen one on eBay, and I would have snagged it ($50, no bids) if I hadn't already settled for a StewMac 12-bridge. I looked long and hard for a while, and never saw any except that one.
  9. erikbojerik
    As for the changing depth of the truss rod channel (original post), just sand yourself a wedge of the right thickness and taper, cut a slot in it for the bit, and then stick it to the top of the neck blank with double-stick tape. Works great if you're using a hand-held router.
  10. erikbojerik
    Downcut bits are really great for routing a binding channel; it cuts down on the body from above, lot less tear-out than with a straight-cut bit.
  11. erikbojerik
    Hard to tell from one pic, but looks like it could use a complete refinish, in which case replacing the entire binding would be standard operating procedure.
  12. erikbojerik
    See what you've started Coen? I can't stop staring at it...you've got my vote for GOTM.
  13. erikbojerik
    Sounds good, thanks Drak. I've got goggles and a gas mask left over from a recent field expedition (I'm a volcanologist by trade) and 3 oz. of Zap-A-Gap CA+ ready to go. In pondering, it occured to me that the thin CA might be best for a near-natural finish; maybe the gel has a higher solids content and I was afraid it might dry "milky"-looking. So I went with the runny formula.
  14. erikbojerik
    Thanks again. Sounds like a lot of glue, and a gas mask, will be in order. Oh, and I take back the "retarded" thing (<wipes cheeze whiz off of face>)
  15. erikbojerik
    OK, thanks. I've tried the runny formula on a scrap piece, and some sections of the spalt are so porous that it just soaks up the CA like mad, doesn't actually fill the grain. Was that your experience? Did the clear coat fill the rest of the grain, or did you end up with an open grain to the finish?
  16. erikbojerik
    Man I love that Strat, it inspired me enough to go out and get a piece big enough for my doubleneck proj. The thing that's scary is how you arrived at THE SAME EXACT choices of neck wood, hardware etc as I had arrived at (before I saw the completed rig). Right down to the dome knobs. OK, I've got ebony instead of RW for the fretboards, but that's about the only difference.
  17. erikbojerik
    It looks great, I'm not quite up to speed on the CA method. Do you use the gel? Medium-thick? Or the runny stuff? How do you apply it to the woood?
  18. erikbojerik
    I have a LP Custom, and my binding is 7-ply (w/b/w/b/w/b/W) the capital W is thick-white. You'll need to buy the individual 2-layer binding (w/b x 3 and W, or w/b x 2 and w/b/W), then laminate all the strips together. It is easiest to do it at the same time you're gluing it into the binding channel, so that it will bend easily around the curves. Just make sure you get the glue both into the channel and in between the layers. Hold it firm to the body with filament tape. On the LP the nitro lacquer is also sprayed over the binding, so to make it look right you'll need to do some spraying and buffing. Given this, it is probably more straightforward to replace the entire binding.
  19. erikbojerik
  20. erikbojerik
    How did you fill the pores / wormholes in the spalt? And did you use any sanding sealer, or seal it with anything else (CA?) before the clear coat?
  21. erikbojerik
    This guy "nicneufeld" over on the USA Custom Guitars website made a redwood-on-mahogany tele that was just beautiful. Here's the link (although the pics don't show up anymore). scroll down I liked it so much that I decided to go with a figured redwood top for my archtop proj (which I probably won't get to for a year at least).
  22. erikbojerik
    Yeah, that's pretty cool. Quartersawn neck from flatsawn stock.
  23. erikbojerik
    If you tune the 12 string down to D it will help a lot.
  24. erikbojerik
    Still...go for it, I say. Why not? Other than the fact that you'll start with about 30 pounds of wood to make a 3 pound guitar... Although, if you're still going to glue the top and back to the sides, then how much glue will you really be saving yourself? Just for the braces and the kerf on the sides? Also, normally the back and side pieces are quartersawn, which would not be the case if you routed them out of a single block of wood. Does this introduce strength or stability issues?
  25. erikbojerik
    I'm binding the ebony fretboard so that won't be a problem with CA, but I'm a little concerned about the quilted maple on the top, as I do plan to stain it. If I tape the top and use a thicker "gel" type CA, do you think that would work out?
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