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Bizman62

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Everything posted by Bizman62

  1. Before saving your sweat take a look at this video. That guy uses the hand saw a LOT for rough shaping! According to Wood Database the Ancient Swamp Kauri is about 9% harder than Limba (Janka hardness 730 v.s. 670), the neck and fretboard woods are unknown to WD although some information can be found. Most likely they're harder, though. Also bear in mind that saving a few hours by skipping the sawing is a fraction of the time you'll have to use for sanding!
  2. The pantograph and the plastic mould are a clever way to do the carving for the inlay. More than that, your logo looks complicated while it in reality is very router friendly! Am I right to assume that you can do it with a 3 mm bit?
  3. There's plenty of ways to reduce the thickness, most of which you already opted out! Planing and routing really waste material so I can easily agree with not using them. Sawing (resawing is the right term if I'm right) is the right way and if your bandsaw isn't up to the task it's hand tools to the rescue! @ADFinlayson once presented an idea of a handsaw with a thickness guide to start the cut with, guess this picture helps understanding how it works: Another drawing from my archives shows a way to cut hard woods with a handsaw with the least effort. Basically we're talking about cutting off corners as they're much easier to saw than long stretches:
  4. Heh, exactly my thoughts as I looked at the picture before reading!
  5. You mean no blocks? If so, I guess you like it because that way the dust doesn't clog the paper? The reason for asking that is that I'm studying the mechanics of sanding, the how's and why's of doing it the most effective way without extra scratches. When I've finished my pondering I might type a tutorial...
  6. A tiny update: Last Saturday I scraped and sanded the sides and redyed them. Despite having wiped with a damp rag the fibres raised a bit so tomorrow I'll have to very lightly sand them down and reapply some dye. As the alcohol dries very fast I believe rattling a rattle can will be within reason as well...
  7. Very nice as always The blue masking tape on the necks fooled me for a while to think you went from blue to red, having sanded most of the blue away to leave just a burst! That made me compare the grain figurations until I understood they're two different guitars...
  8. Just remembered that he also may use a similar jig for the sides, a guiding rail sliding on either the top or the bottom. And the sanding will take forever and a day but it has that meditative twist so it's good for mental health.
  9. The only power tool I use gloves with is the chainsaw. I also often use them with hand tools like an axe or a spade but not always. As @Prostheta said, tactile feedback is important. Back in the day gloves were a must when chopping firewood, nowadays not so much as I've learned to "feel" to avoid splinters digging into my fingers rather than having a clumsy thick piece of cowhide as protection. After having read the above and giving it a thought I came to the conclusion that the chainsaw actually is the only woodworking tool that is built to fit gloves in the handles! And the lawn mower, the vibration tends to create blisters. Handheld routers, power planers, hand drills and most other electric tools all are fitted for bare hands, even the hedge trimmer despite the hawthorn thorns being quite stingy. Then again my hands are pretty large, size 9.5 or 10.
  10. A fellow at our course is quite nitpicky regarding bevels. He simply makes a jig that both keeps the angle right and prevents from going too far.
  11. Oh my! Those loose pants and double breasted suits! I used to wear them at work all the time, you could get a suit from a bargain rack for next to nothing and it didn't go out of fashion - at least not as fast as the casual business clothes. It was about at the date of the video I last saw Duke live, he was having a gig with the Pleasure Kings at a smallish pub in my hometown. The previous time had been a few years earlier... A 70's very popular local singer and her husband had set up a record wholesale business and had acquainted with Duke during a road trip in the US and brought him over a couple of times. Very good music for a very decent ticket price! - Oh, and I worked at a small record shop for the summer of '85 and actually ordered some Duke records to the shop from that pop star of my childhood! And of course I bought myself the LP's for the stock price...
  12. Definitely a good idea to make the control cavity large enough, and close enough to the edge for the jack. Much easier to do it a this stage than enlarging it later. Redoing the template and trying to realign the unchanged parts is a PITA.
  13. Go to a paint shop where they mix paints into rattle cans - most likely it's automotive related. They should be able to find a matching colour if you have any good reference so they can compare it to their samples. Matte is just another ingredient in the mix, that's not a big issue after they find the right pink. Knowing that the original is an urethane based paint might help but doesn't necessarily matter much. No matter what type of paint you buy, you want it to be rock solid in a relatively short time without too thick a coat. Even 2k paint can be put into a rattle can, there's an extra button in the bottom to release the hardener into the mix.
  14. Reducing the size by a hair isn't unusual, we all do it for most every build! Moving the template a smidgeon was a clever way to fix the horn pit. Using the router rather than sanding definitely keeps the sides straight if you don't have a spindle sander. Well thought!
  15. Now there's something that scares me! In my opinion it's much safer to stand when using power tools. First, your body is making a steady tripod of your two feet on the floor and your hands leaning on the workpiece - yes, I count the hands as one as they're both holding either the tool or the piece against a solid workbench. Second, your entire body works as a fine tuned lever for moving the tool or piece. And finally, if something goes wrong you can jump back or duck much faster than if you'd first had to climb down off a chair.
  16. Since you asked I had to bite the bullet and measure it. It's about 13-14 mm at the low E hole. But the radius of the dip (or whatever it's called) is now much tighter than it was as I really had to scrape quite a lot to get the dye off the end grain. 96% alcohol really made the dye penetrate into end grain!
  17. That's a widely used method, although most of the time I've seen it been used is right on the guitar itself! Doing it on a template is much safer as you can change the center line in case the neck wasn't properly aligned.
  18. Holy Moses! That bevel is stupendous - they often seem to have a discontinuity point or two at the ends but you've managed to get the curve of the binding continue without any corners. It almost looks like there's an offset lower bout casting a shadow left to it! Wow, just wow!
  19. Thanks @curtisa, I had that nagging feeling in the back of my head already when I first watched that video a couple of years ago but I couldn't figure out what the issue was or how to do it better. Your video reminds me of something Neil Paskin may hove done. It wasn't too hard to find an example:
  20. And the saga continues... The course started again last Saturday and despite all the social aspects I managed to make some progress. Reshaped the control cavity template and rerouted the cavity accordingly to better fit the tubular jack. Also scraped off the burst on the headstock as best as I could - now I fear I made it too thin!
  21. Such lovely pieces of art! Back in the early days of TV they would have looked very strange on the black and white screen... Fortunately the image quality has improved from those days so we can enjoy watching any colour schemes on a guitar!
  22. You're welcome, Quebec City! The latest video I've so far seen him mention it is this one, starting from where he discusses the matter:
  23. Well, that backfired As a silver lining for this cloud of mine, building a bass uke like that might be interesting and playing one should be easier than a long scale bass. Does that one have a piezo somewhere, also what's the scale length? And how does it sound compared to electric or dog house basses?
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